Midsummer means a lot of things, but heat and garden weeds are probably two that many of us are familiar with right now. A few weeks ago, there was a dinner on the farm I was going to contribute a dish too, and, as my partner’s family is proud of their Greek heritage, I thought…
Garden
Green Coriander
If you don’t like cilantro, close your browser right now, back away from the computer slowly and I’ll see you next week. If you love cilantro like I do, hang on to your butt, because I have a great one for you. Green / unripe coriander or cilantro seeds are one of my all-time favorite,…
Oven-Dried Tomatoes with Bergamot and Ramp Leaves
This is one of my absolute favorite ways to preserve tomatoes—great for the bounty of tomato season, or even if you’re just craving good tomato flavor in the off season, which I often do. They’re made to mimic the oil-cured, semi-dried Italian tomatoes that restaurants often purchase from wholesale purveyors. If I say so myself,…
Daikon Radish Steaks with Wild Mushroom Ragu
Vegetarian or not, you’re going to love these little daikon radish steaks with wild mushroom ragu, but first, I have to give credit to where my inspiration came from. Like most of my colleagues, I’m always hungry for new information and secrets from others in the culinary industry. You can find recipes for just about…
Fennel-Celery Root Salad with Acorn Oil
This is such a good salad. Such. A. Good. Salad. Working in Italian kitchens most of my life, shaved fennel salad was basically an afterthought—I honestly didn’t know why we put it on the menu sometimes, since it just didn’t excite me. By the time service came around, it would often be a clumpy oily…
Fresh Horseradish
Fresh horseradish. Just the thought of it makes my eyes water with glee. Horseradish is an ancient condiment, and It’s kept a good popularity compared to other root crops like skirret and parsley root, the former of which I’m still dying to grow. It’s popularity has to be due at least partly to the fact…
Raw Turnips with Acorn Oil
Raw turnips with acorn oil might sound like something you’d be served during winter in a Polish Gulag, but I can assure you, it’s a far cry from a punishment. The idea for this came from a couple different places, but the most inspirational was a book many of you will know (and love): The…
Homegrown Horseradish Cream
Nasal-clearing, bracingly hot, creamy and delicious. Fresh grated horseradish cream sauce lives in the Valhalla of ultimate condiments, and is one thing that everyone should have in their culinary toolkit. It’s a snap to make, keeps for a very long time even though it’s dairy based, has tons of fun variations–two of which I’ll share…
Lamb Shanks Braised with Cardoons and Tomato
I’ve done a lot of research as the executive chef of Lucia’s. The restaurant, once known as the Chez Panisse of the Midwest lost it’s way somewhere along the line, the chef got bored, let the restaurant slide into disarray, then left. What was once a bastion of locally sourced food slowly evolved into what…
Hosta Buds
Wait a minute, that looks like an artichoke! I stooped down and snapped a hosta bud off of one of the plants in the garden of my apartment building, put it in my pocket, and went to work. When I got to the kitchen, I took the little bud out of my pocket, it was…
Root Vegetable Sauerkraut, with Wild Caraway
Fresh sauerkraut is a world of difference from the mostly overcooked, mushy versions sold in jars at the store. Besides having a mild flavor (if you choose) the cabbage is still crisp, which gives you more freedom for cooking with it in the kitchen and having it keep it’s integrity. Cabbage is only one thing…
Nasturtium Capers (Lacto-Fermented)
Milkweed capers, dandelion capers, elderberry capers, I’ve made them all, but the best, from a flavor and texture perspective are nasturtium capers. They’re widely known in the chef and gastro-centric gardening communities, got a really good shout out in Jeremy Fox’s book On Vegetables in 2017. The book is chock-ful of cutting edge plates, and…
Green Butternut Squash
“OH MY GOD! The zucchini-looking squash are huge, I better act quick so they don’t get tough!” I filled my arms with giant, bulbous heirloom squash and trucked them to my car, a couple of times. There comes a point where I’m ok with shredded zucchini bread, pancakes, fritters, latkes, dumplings, noodles, dried coins, kimchi,…