Do you like preserved lemons? I do. If you do too, you’ll want to read on, especially if you’re the type of person who likes an easy fermentation project.
I seem to crave Moroccan-style salted lemons when I don’t have any around. They can be hard to find if you don’t live in a big urban area with access to Middle Eastern markets. Making your own, while a fun experiment, takes months. So, a few years ago I had an idea for a workaround.
The best lemons come from my Grandmother’s tree in Arizona.
Instead of just burying lemons in salt, I thought why not ferment them? It turned out to be a fun kitchen hack that’s pretty darn close to traditional salted or preserved lemons. But, these come without extra salt you have to rinse or soak off. It’s also done in a couple weeks, instead of months, and, just like salted lemons, it’s also shelf stable near indefinitely. They make a delicious addition to savory dishes.
Depending on the fermentation process you use to make them, fermented lemons can also give you fermented lemon juice. The liquid isn’t indelibly salty as with traditional preserved lemons that are buried in salt.
The only real tricky thing to wrangle is the paradox of choice, because there’s a lot of different ways you can go about fermenting lemons. I’m going to go over the most useful methods I’ve found, and explain the differences and trade-offs between the two.
Fermenting in Brine
Lemons will ferment easily in a traditional brine ferment. To do it, take lemons and quarter them, put the lemons in a jar, and pour over a solution of 3% brine.
Weigh the lemons down with something (a clean stone is fine) and allow to ferment for two weeks, or until sour to your liking. This will make fermented lemons, but the residual juice in the lemons isn’t worth harvesting (at least for me) since it’s watered down.
Fermenting only the rind in brine
If you cut the flesh and seeds from the quarters of lemons, you can ferment the rind, saving the fresh lemon juice for another purpose. This also allows more lemon rind to fit into a jar, which will give you a higher yield.
Fermenting Under Vacuum
The traditional method works, but fermenting under vacuum is my favorite, and a great way to preserve food. Vacuum fermentation means that as the ferment isn’t exposed to air, it’s basically impossible for it to mold. Using vacuum fermentation, I have never seen any sort of mold or kahm yeast develop.
The lack of air exchange in vacuum ferment means that the lemons, along with aroma in the rind are trapped together. This forces a marinating exchange of flavors that happens as the fermentation takes place.
These taste and smell and taste extra lemony. This is because none of the aromas have been lost to air exchange from exposing them to air. This might sound a little hokey, but it’s true. I discussed it in my appearance on Daniel Vitalis’s podcast Wildfed a few years ago in the episode “The Final Frontier of Food”.
With vacuum fermentation, the lemon juice hasn’t been diluted with water. This means it’s only a little salty, so you can also strain it and use it in cooking or for making condiments and dressings. It’s delicious spritzed on some fish or swirled into a sauce, vinaigrette or used anywhere you’d use fresh lemon juice.
Adjusting the texture of the fermented rind
One of my favorite things about traditional salted lemons is their tender bite. Fermented lemons won’t have the same soft chew of salted lemons at first, but it’s easy to get around.
To soften the texture to use as fermented lemons, I sous-vide the fermented lemons or steam them gently until they’re tender. If you’re putting the lemons in a stew like a tagine, you just can simmer it a bit longer until the lemon pieces are tender.
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Use ideas
You can use fermented lemons in any recipe that would call for preserved lemons.
Tagines
The North African stew is probably the best-known place where you’ll find preserved lemons. Other soups and stews especially complex things like curries can also work.
Dips and spreads
Adding a sprinkle of finely diced, cooked, fermented lemons will add a great lemony bite, artichoke dip is a good example. The chopped rind can also be mixed in things that will be buzzed in a food processor. Borani esfenaj with fermented lemon would be great.
Just about anywhere you’d use lemon zest
Pan sauces, stuffings, etc. I worked at one place where we made a compound butter for steak made from blending preserved lemon, rosemary and black pepper in a food processor.
With Leafy Greens
A Moroccan classic. In my book, I describe arguably the most heavily consumed dish of wild plants in Morocco. It’s a simple dish of cooked mallow, purslane, or a combination, seasoned with cumin, paprika, olives and preserved lemon. In short, just try tossing some finely chopped, cooked fermented lemon rind in with cooked leafy greens.
Vacuum Fermented Lemons
Equipment
- Vacuum sealer
- Vacuum bag, gallon size
Ingredients
Brine fermented lemons
- 2 lbs Organic lemons or meyer lemons don't use regular lemons
- 27 Grams Kosher salt or sea salt
Instructions
Sealing and fermenting
- Cut the lemons into quarters the long way, then add salt, mix, and quickly seal in the vacuum bag. Allow the lemons to ferment in the bag for 2 weeks, or until sour to your liking.
- As the fermentation progresses, the bag will inflate from carbon dioxide. While I've never had a bag burst, I do cut the corner off of the bag as needed to release carbon dioxide, resealing the cut corner without using the vacuum to keep the lemons contained.
Trimming
- After the lemons are fermented, remove them from the bag, put them rind-side down on a cutting board, and, using a sharp paring knife, cut away the pith and seeds and discard. If you used the vacuum method, you can squeeze the capillaries and pith to extract fermented lemon juice.
- From here, the lemons are shelf stable and can be held in the refrigerator, or water-bath canned in their brine if you used brine. Canning in brine will also tenderize the rind, which is a nice bonus. Do not can lemons in their juice, which could become bitter-save that for another fresh purpose like salad dressing.
Tenderizing the rind
- Finally, you need to heat the rind long enough for it to become tender. My favorite way to do this is to seal in a vacuum bag and cook sous vide at 150 F for 2 hours, but you can also steam them.
Brine Fermented Lemons
Equipment
- Nonreactive vessel, such as a half gallon wide mouth mason jar with a plastic lid
Ingredients
Brine fermented lemons
- Organic lemons or meyer lemons don't use regular lemons
- Kosher salt or sea salt As needed
- Filtered water as needed
Instructions
Brine fermented lemons
- Make a 3% brine solution by mixing 30 grams of salt for every 1000 grams of water.
- Cut your lemons into quarters and pack into a large jar, such as a half gallon mason jar, or a couple quarts. Cover the lemons with the brine, weighing them down with an object in the jar like a clean stone to keep the lemons submerged under the brine. Allow the lemons to sit at room temperature and ferment for 7-14 days, or until sour to your liking.
Trimming
- After the lemons are fermented, remove them from the jar, put them rind-side down on a cutting board, and, using a sharp paring knife, cut away the pith and seeds and discard. If you used the vacuum method, you can squeeze the capillaries and pith to extract fermented lemon juice.
- From here, the lemons are shelf stable and can be held in the refrigerator, or water-bath canned in their brine if you used brine. Canning in brine will also tenderize the rind, which is a nice bonus. Do not can lemons in their juice, which could become bitter-save that for another fresh purpose like salad dressing.
Tenderizing the rind
- Finally, you need to heat the rind long enough for it to become tender. My favorite way to do this is to seal in a vacuum bag and cook sous vide at 150 F for 2 hours, but you can also steam them.
E B
So grateful to have this to expand my fermenting skills. I’m getting lovely organic Meyer lemons in my Misfits Market Box so have the goods to try this. I love using lemons in my cooking & Meyer lemons especially are a great treat for me in KS.
Thanks Alan
Alan Bergo
Meyer lemons are the best here, for sure. They're in season now which is partly why I put this up now.
Keith Langdon
I have done lemons in jars before. This year I did my hot sauces in vac pack. I just spun a couple in the blender last week and was very pleased with the result. No kahm yeast and no funk. I am hitting the store tomorrow for some lemons!
Mary Meyer
I think that you could do better in writing a recipe. A) don't combine one recipe with another; B) try following your recipe exactly as you have written it before publishing. Otherwise, your idea's sound interesting.
Alan Bergo
I’ve made it both ways, and both ways work fine, that’s why there’s images detailing both processes. I wouldn’t put it up if I hadn’t made it exactly as it’s written.
VELMA STERENBERG
Thank you!! Use lemon rind in many many dishes & the vacuum process much easier for me . But best of all, it led me to your recipe for Fermented Fungi which, like others who commented, I vowed never to try again after an unsuccessful effort w Suillus grevillie.
Re: the lemons, think this would also work well with Bhudda's Hand. I infuse that fruit in Vodka, but might have to try salting a bit when I'm doing the lemons.
Brad Rhodes
Regarding the vacuum ferment method, could you be a little more specific than salt as needed?
Thanks
Alan Bergo
Most fermenters know the %’s but yes, I meant to put the specific weight, it’s 27 grams. I adjusted it.
Brad Rhodes
You did put 27 grams in the recipe Alan.
It’s so odd, yesterday when I hit the jump to recipe button at the top both recipes said salt as needed. Today the vacuum one clearly says 27 grams and the brined one says 3%..Peculiar but thanks for your reply.
Will K.
I frequently make traditional preserved lemons (packed in salt). I wonder, if just fermenting the rinds, whether you could incorporate the juice into the 3% brine used to cover them?
Alan Bergo
I haven't incorporated the juice as I worried about it inhibiting the fermentation but I think it would probably work.
Amy
I tried it both ways. Used a steamer vac bag and didn’t get a tight compressed seal so they got mold on them, but the fermented in brine are nice (Meyer). Have removed from brine but not sure how to store in fridge? Have drained, put in clean jar, packed in and topped with oil so hope that’s ok! Don’t want them to spoil now!
Love the flavour. Thanks
Alan Bergo
Thanks Amy, I've never seen mold on a vacuum ferment, but yes, it's important to get a tight seal.