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Dark Beer Short Ribs, Dried Boletes And Root Vegetables

Shortribs braised with boletes and dark beer.

I often get asked things like “what’s your favorite mushroom” or “what’s the most interesting mushroom you’ve cooked with?”. They’re questions I can’t really answer, but there’s a particular shroom I like to mention as a conversation piece, since it’s a good example of the possibilities I see in boletes. The tricky part is that… 

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celery root salad with chickweed and watercress

Greens That Survived Winter, With Celeriac And Cheese

Like most people, I think of seasons as static: Winter turns to Spring, to Summer, to Fall, and then repeats. It really isn’t true though, the change of seasons is gradual, and the transition between them blurry. At the restaurant, the first day we saw snow melt a server pulled me aside and asked me:… 

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Rainbow trout with lobster mushroom broth

Shooting The Heartland Cookbook

Sometimes you can try something and fail, and come out better than if you’d succeeded. I’ve wanted to share this for a while, since if I don’t, all the work I put in, and the pictures I took will sit on a hard drive, and no one will ever see them. Here’s what happened: Last… 

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rowanberry, mountain ash berry

Rowan Berries

I love ingredients with a story. This past year, rowan berries gave me that, I mean it’s not every ingredient you read up on people say you can cast magic spells with, right?. If you dig around a little online, you’ll see glimpses of their history, especially in the old Celtic and Anglo Saxon traditions… 

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Poussin Brined With Spruce_

Spruce Poussin, With Apple Mustard Sauce

There’s nothing quite like a young spring spruce tip, but the mature needles still have a lot of flavor too. I knew that people make tea from older branches, so I thought it would be fun to make some sort of water based infusion as the base of a dish. A simple brine turned out… 

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filet mignon, morels, caul fat,

Steak and Morels en Crepinette, with Nettles and Grains

Before the Salt Cellar opened, I was looking through books for ideas on “old school” French food I could put a spin on for the menu. Crepinettes were one thing I thought of, but decided to put them on the back-burner to keep the saute stations a little easier to work, for the time being…. 

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craterellus fallax and craterellus cinereus var multiplex

The Fragrant Black Trumpet

I’ve heard hunting for black trumpet mushrooms compared to looking for black holes in the woods, and that isn’t far from the truth. Even mycologist Chuck Barrows, (a guy who found undiscovered species of porcini and has them named after him) didn’t even find his first one until he was an elderly man. Until I… 

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root vegetables, pickled ramps

Root Vegetables With Pickled Ramp Glaze

  Nothing evokes thoughts of winter to me like a bowl of properly cooked root vegetables. I can still remember the first time I cooked with real roots, and by that, I mean something that isn’t a baby carrot from a bag. I was 18, and thought I knew plenty about food. I didn’t know… 

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rainbow trout with chicken of the woods mushrooms

Rainbow Trout With Pickled Chicken Of The Woods

I came up with the recipe one day when I had a nice rainbow trout on hand. I wanted to start burning through my mushroom pickles too, since I tend to hoard them until the next season and wind up having too much, every year. It’s an easy preparation, and one that I would make… 

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