A jar of Mugolio pine cone syrup. One of the most expensive ingredients I purchased as a chef, it costs the forager pennies to make at home.
Mugolio, a dark, aromatic syrup imbued with the flavor of pine cones, is the poster child for the kind of crazy cool, Illuminati-esque foodstuff foragers have access to, all for the price of a hike, or even less, depending on how close you are to some pine trees.
The syrup came on my radar when my friend Dan Farmer gave me a little jar of some he made to try. I remember it being good, but I forgot about it until I opened the Salt Cellar, and started making my own from spruce tips, which is excellent, but not quite the same as pine cone syrup (for the record both are great).
Mugolio is now still a bit of a chef secret, and available through elite specialty distributors, but the price is staggeringly high, exorbitant even, when you consider you can make nearly the exact same thing at home, for less than it costs to make a cake.
Finished pine cone mugolio, and pine and spruce mugolios in the works. Note the loss of volume in the spruce syrup on the right, and the higher water content in the pine cone syrup on the left.
A chef secret that takes months to make
The cost of mugolio is not found in ingredients, but is paid in time. How much time is certainly up for debate, and you’ll notice my recipe turns around a lot quicker than burying a jar of pine cones and sugar in the yard and digging it up the next year (an actual recipe from Romania). But you’ll still want at least a month for a good syrup, and aging it longer is fun.
Green black pine cones (Pinus nigra) right, and balsam fir (Abies balsamea) left. Both can be used to make mugolio.
Mugolio: more than just pine cones
Real quick, some reality. I use the word mugolio interchangeably for syrups made from numerous tree parts, if you look around you’ll see mugolio usually refers to a syrup made from the young cones of mugo pine, harvested at a specific time of year, under the strictest of conditions, blah, blah, blah.
Pine cone syrup from Manicaretti. This will run you about 25$ plus shipping for about 1/2 cup of syrup. Yeaoch! Nice bottle though.
I’ve made all kinds of similar sugar based products from all kinds of conifer parts, and it isn’t some difficult, arcane thing you can only do in the light of a full moon— just the opposite. Making mugolio is easy, and there’s a very forgiving time window for harvesting cones, or other things products like cedar cones, wintergreen, juniper, or spruce tips. All of the aforementioned making excellent syrups in their own right.
There’s something special about the pine cone syrup though. Pine cones hold more water than any other thing I’ve used, and they also ferment during the maceration process, vigorously. The day after you combine the pine cones and sugar, there will look as if there was a rush and release of water—what was once a solid packed jar of pine cones and sugar is not 75 % full and liquid.
Species of unripe pine cones I’ve used to make syrup
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- Balsam fir / Abies balsamea.
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- Green spruce cones will work too, but you’ll want to cut them up to help them fit in the jar.
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- Norway spruce cones are large you’ll want to cut these up into coins.
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- Pinus nigra/black pine.
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- Jack pine / Pinus banksiana.
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- Red pine / Pinus resinosa.
Using other conifer products
Other tree products like spruce tips, pine tips and cedar cones I’ve worked with are more dry, and may not ferment during the maceration process, but they can still make a fine syrup.
Young green pine tips can also be used, but they contain less water than green cones so the syrup may not lacto-ferment, which isn’t a problem.
The point is: you can make syrups like this out of all kinds of things, and everyone I’ve had has been good. If you have spruce trees near you, take a look at the basic spruce tip mugolio too, which is nearly the same, sans the fermentation. Here’s a few things I’ve used:
- Unripe eastern white cedar cones (Thuja occidentalis, see image below, left)
- Juniper berries (Juniperis virginiana)
- Spruce tips (many species)
Pine cones aren’t the only thing you can make into mugolio. Pictured are cedar cones, spruce tips, pine cones and wintergreen.
The best part is figuring out how to use it. Somethings take some experimentation, mugolio not so much. You can literally put it on just about anything where maple syrup would be good, and you’ll be glad you did. The syrup has the essence of pine, but with none of the strong tannins you’d expect If you took a bite out of a pine cone—just pure piney goodness.
When to harvest your pine cones
Stages of growth. Any of the pine cones here could be packed into a jar and used to make mugolio, but any stage with green will be easier than smaller cones, which may need a splash of water to not yield a crystallized syrup.
This is up for debate, but my favorite comes from green cones as they contain more water. Purists might say that you need to harvest pine cones when they’re the size of a pinky nail, or some other arbitrary size. I can tell you after making this for years now, that any of the pine cones pictured in the image above will make a fine syrup, but smaller cones will make a syrup with a much stronger flavor, strong enough that some people may not like it. Another good rule of thumb I’ve found is that whatever cone you’re picking will probably be sticky and exuding resinous, sticky liquid at a prime stage for making pine cone syrup.
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- Day 1
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- Day 7
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- Once the water releases the mixture will ferment, loweing the pH and adding funky notes.
Green cone=higher water content
Larger green cones hold more water in them which makes syrup making much easier, and also allows for some fermentation in the process, which adds fun flavors. As long as the cones are meristematic and tender, and can be cut through with a knife, even if it’s into pieces with long cones like white spruce or balsam fir, they will make a good mugolio. The only cones that won’t work, are mature, tough, barky cones, like those you’d see on the ground.
Using very young pine cones
Very young pine cones will make a strong mugolio, but I would suggest chopping them to make it so you can fit more in a jar.
You can use young pine cones, but they’re smaller and don’t hold as much water as cones that are green, so they’re not ideal here. If you really want to try with very young pine cones, try chopping them up medium to make it so more cones can be fit in a jar, which means more water, meaning an easier syrup. You can also add a splash of water to help it on it’s way.
Labneh, or mild yogurt cheese, drizzled with mugolio and toasted butternuts.
Is it safe?
Yes, this is absolutely, positively safe, and there’s no need to worry about botulism. I can’t speak to the exact science of spruce tip and cedar cones syrups, (also safe) but pine cone syrup is especially safe as it ferments as it macerates, due to the higher water content of the cones if harvested at the green stage. The extended fermentation lowers the pH, making it shelf stable. Remember that sugar is a preservative, and conifer products are all naturally acidic, which is a preservative in itself.
Consider using gloves
The most prime pine and spruce cones for making syrup will be plump, but still unripe. At this stage, most of them will be very sticky and oozing a sappy resinous substance that will quickly coat your hands and will stay for hours. Consider wearing gloves to avoid sticky hand syndrome.
Choosing the right sugar
Some recipes might call for white sugar, and while it will work and give you a flavored syrup, white sugar is more dry, and I find the clear color far less attractive than the caramel color that organic, unrefined turbinado-style sugar or even light brown sugar or a similar substitute will give.
I try to avoid using plain white sugar when I can, and I highly doubt that original mugolio recipes used such highly refined products when the first adventurous people crafted them. Use a good sugar that you can feel good about eating, and drizzling over everything, because you’ll want to drizzle it, on, well, everything. Here’s a list of sugars that will work
Turbinado
Turbinado is slightly more dry than commercial brown sugars, but it has an excellent flavor.
Light, golden, or dark brown sugar
These are some of the most versatile and affordable, but I suggest using a high quality organic brand. The varying molasses content of the different colors of sugar is negligible in regards to the flavor of the finished syrup.
Maple sugar
Maple sugar is the most expensive you could use, and in my opinion is not the most ideal as it’s prone to crystallization from my experience. It is delicious though. If you’d like to harness the flavor of maple with your pine cones, you can just toss pine cones into maple syrup at a ratio of 1 cup of pine cones to 1 lb (2 cups) of maple syrup.
You can also make blends using spruce tips and pine cones for a great flavor combo.
Zirbenshnaps
Zirbenschnaps, from Distillerie Farthofer.
This stuff is unique enough that it needs a special mention. Zirbenschnaps is a liquor made with pine cones. I’m not an expert on distillation by any means, but I’ve been working with a distillery to make similar products, and one thing we’ve been toying around with is making a rendition of it by simply using it as the sweetener in a macerated liquor.
The traditional zirbenshnaps has a red tone to its color, which makes me think they’re using a syrup made from fresh pine cones cooked immediately—not aged, but I know there’s also birch schnaps, and that’s made with reduced birch syrup, so I think using mugolio would be fine. Currently I know zirbenshnaps is only sold at ultra high-end restaurants in my area.
Whatever you make with it, it’s one of the most fascinating and delicious condiments made from wild ingredients I know of.
Making Large Batches
I occasionally make very large batches of syrup, 2 or 3 gallons at a time. Here’s a few tips on doing that if it’s something you’re interested in, especially as this is such a fun (also cheap) and interesting thing to give as gifts. The tips below are intended for those people making 1 gallon batches and up at a time.
A large batch of mugolio I did for takeaways at one of my book signings. It makes a great gift.
Skimming the foam
Similar to maple syrup, when you cook large quantities of the syrup, it will begin to froth and foam at the top and will double in size quickly. Some cones seem to create more foam than others, especially Norway Spruce. When you notice foam during the cooking process, do your best to skim it off with a spoon and discard.
Thick scum can form on large batches or with different species of cones I’ve cooked. When you see this, spoon it off and discard. Very small batches of mugolio may have their scum dissipate as they settle, but it may hang on and stay in the jars with larger batches from my experience.
After you bring the syrup to a simmer and strain, put it back in the pot and bring it to a simmer again, let it rest for a minute or two so the syrup can settle and return to it’s original volume. If you don’t do this, you run the risk of having jars that are half full after settling.
Canning for long-term storage
Pour the piping hot syrup into large jars, or, for smaller ones, pour the syrup into a pitcher with a spout, and pour directly into canning jars (4 oz mason jars make a great gift). Fill the jars nearly to the brim, leaving about 1/8 inch headspace, then, working quickly, screw on the lids tight and turn the jars upside down. You don’t have to water bath-process this as it’s basically the same sugar concentration as maple syrup, just make sure your jars are clean. The jars will seal naturally but should be refrigerated after opening.
Here’s a few ideas for using it, and a few things yet on my list to try.
Ideas for using
- Drizzled on pancakes, crepes waffles and other things primed for syrup.
- Use it to flavor whipped cream
- Excellent drizzled over soft cheese like mascarpone, labneh, chevre, etc.
- Drizzled over fresh fruit
- Using in place of honey, I love drizzling it over bowls of warm buttered wild rice with nuts, fruit, and yogurt for breakfast.
- It’s good in desserts, added in small amounts like you would use honey. Dairy based desserts like ice cream, panna cotta and custards of all kinds can just be seasoned to taste with it.
- Try adding small drizzles to salads, or whisking into vinaigrettes.
- Mixing it with a splash of vinegar just to loosen it a bit makes a good brush on or glaze for hams, etc.
- One of my friends adds it to whiskey
Mugolio, or Pine Cone Syrup
Ingredients
- 2 cups (8 oz) young red pine or other pine cones (soft enough to be cut with a knife) *
- 2 cups (16 oz) organic brown sugar or other brown sugar, just not white which is dry and makes a clear syrup
Instructions
- Combine the sugar and pine cones and pack into a quart jar, then allow to macerate (age) in a cool dark place for at least 2 months.
- During the first few weeks of maceration, open the jar occasionally to release carbon dioxide as the mixture will ferment vigorously. Shake it occasionally to help it on it's journey.
- After the maceration is complete, scrape the sugar slush and pine cones into a pot, bring to a boil, then strain and bottle.
- The syrup is stable at room temperature since the fermentation lowers the pH, but will keep the best flavor in the fridge. It can also be water bath processed.
So interesting, I am always grateful of the work you do.
Have you ever tried to macerate the cones into maple syrup?
No, but you could. Just keep in mind the cones will add water, and maple syrup already has a higher eater content that typical mugolio. You could reduce it afterword. If you have extra maple, it would be worth trying with a few cups.
I am macerating pine cones with maple sugar as we speak
Maple sugar is prone to crystalization but the flavor is excellent. Warm it up to relax it.
When are pine cones most likely to be small and harvestable for this project?
In Minnesota and Wisconsin where I live, they’ll be available from May-June, and sometimes longer if you go a bit north. If you’re from a different part of the country (or world) and the timeline is a lot different let me know and I’ll do what I can to help guide people here.
I am in California and desperate to find out what i can use. What do you suggest?
Any young growing meristematic portion of conifers can be used. All pinus species are edible. There’s probably thousands of things that could be used, use your instincts and imagination. Refer to the comment I replied to from Sean just now too for other ideas. Cedar cones (not juniper) have worked very well for me, just make sure to harvest them green and unripe.
I plan to try this with spruce cones as well as red pine. Thanks!
Would love to try this but wrong time of the year fro most cones . But I did find some green cedar cones that are about 8cm long – still soft enough to cut with kitchen knife. Would you chop these up first to fit in the jar?
Yes, those should work fine. Cut them into 1/3rds or a similar size so they can neatly fill the jar.
Should I leave the cones while, or chop them in half?
You can do either. If your cones are larger, you may want to slice them, if they’re small, there’s no need. It will work fine either way, as long as the cones are soft enough to be cut with a knife.
Ok I am SO excited about this… the spruce tip syrup I made last year was absolutely divine! I notice you mention winter green in passing in the recipe prequel… I have access to wintergreen literally everywhere and adore it’s scent and flavour; would the same principles apply if I’m to make a syrup with it? Thanks as always for the awesome inspiring work you do!
Hey Laura. So the wintergreen is a bit different. Basically you make a thick syrup and infuse it with chopped wintergreen leaves, then strain them out. You can’t heat it after the leaves have been added so it also doesn’t last as long and needs to be refrigerated.
Love mugolio. A few years back, I made a SW version of Zirbenschnapps from the immature pinecones of Ponderosa pine. It also turned red, but there was no syrup step in the recipe, just a straight infusion followed by a little sweetening. This post reminds me to pull out the bottle and start experimenting.
Oh OH something I have never steeped in alcohol. I can’t believe it. And you say it turns RED. Thank you Ellen.
You just pop the young cones in a jar of vodka or equivalent and wait???
Allen knows that I steep pretty much anything I can lay my hands on in vodka or grain alcohol. I have done spruce tips but not pine cones yet. Thanks for the idea.
Yesterday I hit the jackpot on pine cones from a couple of different species, including larger ones I cut up, and a whole bunch of little ones about an inch long. They will fir in a quart jar fine, but is it a good idea to slice them anyway to speed things up, or is there a subtlety in leaving them whole? Also found enough super tiny ones to do the cider-pinecone preserves…
Hey Mark, so if the cones are very tiny, I would suggest chopping them roughly to medium-fine to make it so you can fit more cones in the jar, since that means more water proportionate to sugar, which means an easier syrup. Younger cones hold less water and aren’t as ideal for the syrup as green ones. The image of the very small cones I had in here is throwing people off a bit, so I’m going to remove it since the tiny ones are better for the whole preserve. When you use green cones, the rush of water they give off is really remarkable. Let me know how it turns out for you.
Side note: some cones I always chop, even in the green stage since they’re too large to fit in the jar (Pinus siberica).
I started a batch last week with equal parts brown sugar and tiny cones. So far it seems like there’s a clear syrup layer with cones and a sugar layer below. The layers are equal in size. I weighed down the cones to make contact with the sugar a few days ago but nothing has changed. Any suggestions?
You’re just a little early. The tiny small cones will work, but they’re not as ideal as when the cones have started to turn green, since the cones hold more water at that point in their growing cycle. Made with green cones overnight the jar will fill with a rush of water very quick. The small cones will still work, but you may have to add a splash of water to prevent it from crystalizing when you cook it. When the cones near you start to turn green try it again and you’ll immediately understand what I’m talking about here. I’m going to make sure to get some extra process shots this year to help people along since this has become pretty popular, but it won’t be for a few weeks since our cones are still quite small.
I’m also going to make a note of chopping up very small cones to make it so you can fit more of them in the jar, which means more water, which means an easier syrup. Props to Mark Sprinkle there for reminding me of that. So, you could also chop up some more young ones that will add more water to the jar, which will help. Don’t worry about safety here, as sugar is a preservative and you will bring the finished syrup to a boil.
Sweet, I’ll chop up a few and add them. I’m on the north shore and the pine cones are just starting to pop up.
Yeah be patient too, it can take some time to draw out the water from the smaller cones.
Excited to try this! does anyone know the instructions on water bathing it?
It would be the same as for jam and other things I’m sure. Fill canning jars to 1/4 inch of the top, screw the rings on to finger-tightness (fully screwed on but not much past the point where you feel resistance). Then put in a pot of boiling water, raised from the bottom with a canning basket, so water can move under the jars, and with at least an inch of water above. Let boil for 10 minutes. Remove and set on a towel, and do not disturb it for 24 hours.
While you can water bath process mugolio and spruce tip syrups, it’s unnecessary, all you need to do is use clean jars, pour the boiling hot syrup into them, screw on the lid, and turn them upside down. The jars seal naturally, it’s how we process and store about 50 gallons of maple syrup in the farm I live at. Spruce tip syrup and mugolio I would suspect are even safer as they have a natural acidity from the conifer, and pine cone syrup also lacto-ferments as it ages, lowering the pH.
Thank you for the recipe. Is water not required to be added in the pine cones and sugar maceration process?
No water. Just follow the recipe.
I’m a day in and the bottom of my jar has begun to liquefy (so cool)
Should I stir it at all? I have one of those gas vent things on the lid so I don’t need to open it.
Thanks for putting all of this stuff online also. Makes for an interesting cooking experience!
Andrew, totally fine to stir it, it will help it on it’s way. No risk of contamination or anything as it’s nearly 100% sugar and you’ll be boiling it to loosed it after the long maceration. You’ll love the finished product.
I don’t think we have red pine in CA. Can you tell me what other pines you would use?
I’ve also used the cones of Pinus siberica, Thuja occidentalis, Abies balsamea, and Picea glauca. Any young coniferous part can be used, spruce tips too. Classic Spruce Tip Syrup
I live in Australia, and the most common variety of pine tree around my area is Radiata Pine. They’re fine?
Also, I think I’ve read somewhere that cypress cones are something to steer away from?
BTW, found your pine cone recipes while looking for info on Saffron Milk Caps and Slippery Jacks, which are in season here at the moment, growing around the Radiata Pines. Very much enjoying them. 🙂
Sandra, as far as I know all true pines should be edible. Yew is toxic, but it is also not a true pine. Articles that say pines are poisonous or toxic in some form I would suspect are conflating information specifically referring to ruminants, or people attempting to ingest needles or tea (cedar I know has been used) as an abortifacient. You are not ingesting the needles or any physical part of the plant here per se, only the natural liquid that combines with the sugar. The concentration of liquid from the cones is in such a small amount in the finished product, that I would (and have) served this to people indiscriminately. Maybe someone might have an issue if they drank a cup of syrup-I don’t know. I also wouldn’t recommend anyone drink that much sugar syrup for any purpose. Dosage is always important, for example, cinnamon and nutmeg are also toxic in “non-normal” doses.
🙂 Thanks.
I noticed in one of your articles you mentioned problems with getting to young cones growing high in the trees. It seems we have a solution to this “down under”. The cockatoos bite off young branches and drop them, leaving the cones intact 90% of the time.
Very destructive birds to have around any kind of fruiting tree, but they have their positive points too. 😉
Excited to make this with the spruce tips and cones I am gathering. What about trying this with juniper (eastern red cedar in MN) berries later in the summer? I imagine it would create a gin-like taste. Could cedar branch tips be used as well?
Sean, you can probably make it with eastern red cedar, but I would try Thuja occidentalis cones first (Eastern white cedar). When improvising, remember that the water content of the ingredient you will be macerating is what helps to make the syrup. Green pine cones seem to gush water into the sugar overnigtht when gathered at larger stages. When water is introduced into the syrup, it will also probably ferment, sometimes quite vigorously, which can be good, but will add some different flavors, for better or worse. You can probably use branch tips, but I haven’t tried it with that species, only T. occidentalis, which did work well when used in combination with the cones. Hope that helps.
Hi. Are you using only female cones or will male pollen cones do as well? Thanks
Male cones won’t work.
i see so much on spruce tip syrup…can the young green cones be used as well
Sheila, that’s exactly what I’m using here. If you’re referring to the young green cones of spruce, they can absolutely be used as well.
ty so much i have trees full of them and cant wait to try them
You’ll love it. Have fun.
Hi, thank you for the fantastic, detailed write-up and recipe.
I’ve seen elsewhere (I believe it was Rene Redzepi of Noma fame) that once macerated and boiled, the pine cones themselves are edible; any advice regarding this?
I have read elsewhere though that they have some detrimental effects, or at the very least are incredibly bitter. I’m baby green pine cones found in UK
Hey David. So pine cones harvested for mugolio are larger than the recipe you’re thinking of. Varenye is the Caucasian preserve of whole pine cones where the cones are actually eaten, they need to be the size of a pinky nail for that. At the green stage when they’re larger they have a higher water content and are perfect for making mugolio. See my method of making pine cone varenye in this link.
Thank you for this recipie. I’ve made mine with what I think are dwarf mountain pine cones. I feel nervous about mould. Will it be ok to open and stir every now and again? Its in a kilner jar but now its only half full.
Charlotte, I have never seen mold on any syrup I’ve made from any species of pine or spruce cones. This is more of an occasional issue with spruce tips if they aren’t agitated regularly. Proceed with no fear.
Thats good to know, I’ll do my best to relax about mold.
I just discovered a patch of white mold on my batch (it’s been going for 5 weeks now). I removed it and gave it a stir. Think it’s still ok?
I also started a different batch with Virginia Pine so we’ll see how that goes!
Very exciting! When making a lot, have you done it in a crock, Ie: with a lid, but not screwed shut? Would that work, or may invite guests.. ( ants)
Using a crock could potentially work if you keep it inside and figure out a way to seal it. But yes, I’ve done large batches and lazily left them outside, only to return and find them crawling with ants. For fun, I brought the mixture to a boil, strained out everything, and it was fine, but it’s definitely not ideal and I don’t recommend it. Food-grade polycarbonate cambros work very well, as in the types that restaurants use. I recently made 3 gallons in one and left it outside, as the lids are air-tight it kept all the pests out.
Thank you for your knowledge！
I tried making pine cone jam, syrup and medicinal liquor for the first time yesterday.
However, the pinecone i used is “Deodar cedar”.
I didn’t see the recipe on the internet made of such kind, so I felt anxiety about toxicity. While researching, I arrived at this site.
Excuse me for the sudden comment. I would appreciate it if you could let me know.
All true conifers are edible. Yew (Taxus baccata) is not, and looks quite different.
I really appreciate your kindness！！
I will continue to enjoy conifer.
Really you and the blog helped me.
Thank you！！
And I wish your happiness from my heart！！
Thanks Ray
Hi Alan,
Does the taste get finer/more complex if I decide to age it for over two months? Or should I stop at 2?
Avanti, totally fine to stop at two months. 30 days is the minimum I recommend.
Have you ever tried a batch that you took over 2 though?
What do you think about using young hemlock tree cones for this? I know they aren’t poisonous, but has anybody tried making syrup with them?
Coop, it has been done, and it works just fine. I haven’t used them myself though.
This is an easy and fun recipe! Great to made with kids and watch the syrup macerate.
Thanks Kate, yes it’s a great edible science project.
I’ve been a fan for years. Thanks so much for sharing your vast knowledge and contagious passion!
You’ve written that all true conifers are edible. I just want to doublecheck that cedar berries will be safe. And if so, have you tried this with them? Tasty?
Thanks Sarah. Cedar cones (Thuja occidentalis) are fine and I’ve made it with them, the berries that resemble juniper should be ok too, as this doesn’t absorb tannins and astringency-I haven’t made it with them specifically though so it’s just an educated hunch. Either way it would be safe.
Thanks very much Alan. I’ll proceed, and try to remember to post back here about my results after the long fermentation. Harvesting the berries today in light rain at meadow’s edge surrounded by early blooming goldenrod and black raspberries just beginning to ripen, was a sweet sweet joy and pure meditation.
I have about 8 mugo dwarf pines all around my yard. I imagine these are safe to use and are the same as the mugo pines they use in Italy? Any idea?
Yes. Pinus mugo. Same tree as the Italians use. I’d be interested in tasting some of the syrup if you make a bunch. I could send you some really fun ones I’ve made. Lmk.