Mugolio, a dark, aromatic syrup imbued with the flavor of pine cones, is the poster child for the kind of crazy cool, Illuminati-esque foodstuff foragers have access to, all for the price of a hike, or even less, depending on how close you are to some pine trees.
The syrup came on my radar when my friend Dan Farmer gave me a little jar of some he made to try. I remember it being good, but I forgot about it until I opened the Salt Cellar, and started making my own from spruce tips, which is excellent, but not quite the same as pine cone syrup (for the record both are great).
Mugolio is now still a bit of a chef secret, and available through elite specialty distributors, but the price is staggeringly high, exorbitant even, when you consider you can make nearly the exact same thing at home, for less than it costs to make a cake.
A chef secret that takes months to make
The cost of mugolio is not found in ingredients, but is paid in time. How much time is certainly up for debate, and you’ll notice my recipe turns around a lot quicker than burying a jar of pine cones and sugar in the yard and digging it up the next year (an actual recipe from Romania). You’ll want to wait at least a month for a good pine syrup, although aging it longer can be fun.
Mugolio: more than just pine cones
Real quick, some reality. I use the word mugolio interchangeably for syrups made from numerous tree parts, if you look around you’ll see mugolio usually refers to a syrup made from the young cones of mugo pine (Pinus mugo), harvested at a specific time of year, under the strictest of conditions, blah, blah, blah.
I’ve made all kinds of similar sugar based products from all kinds of conifer parts, and it isn’t some difficult, arcane thing you can only do in the light of a full moon— just the opposite.
Making mugolio is easy, and there’s a very forgiving time window for harvesting cones, or other things products like cedar cones, wintergreen, juniper, or spruce tips. All of the aforementioned making excellent syrups in their own right.
There’s something special about the pine cone syrup though. Pine cones hold more water than any other thing I’ve used, and they also ferment during the maceration process, vigorously.
The day after you combine the pine cones and sugar, there will look as if there was a rush and release of water—what was once a solid packed jar of pine cones and sugar is not 75 % full and liquid.
Species of unripe pine cones I've used to make syrup
Variation in flavor between species
One of the most fascinating things about mugolio is that every species of tree you harvest unripe cones from will impart a noticeably different flavor unique to the finished product.
Once I started to notice the different flavors, I made a point out of trying to "mugolio" as many different species of unripe coniferous cone I can, and I found some fascinating things. Here's a quick breakdown of the differences between flavors I taste.
Pinus/Pines
Mugolio made from pinus cones have a resinous, assertive taste.
Picea/Spruces
Spruces lack the aggressive resinous flavor of pines and are the most subtle of all I've tasted. Instead of the resinous taste, spruce cones, just like spruce tips, have a citrusy note to them, and so will syrups made from their cones.
Thuja and likely others/Cedars
The only cedar I've made mugolio with is the green cones Thuja occidentalis, since they're easy to find in landscaping. It has a taste exactly like the aroma of fresh green cedar, a bit in between spruce and pine mugolios.
Abies/Firs
Of all the syrups here, and all the different flavors, the syrups I've made from balsam fir are the most delicious.
Firs have a resinous punch like pine mugolios, but it's slightly less aggressive, and most noticeably, comes with strong notes of warm spices like cloves, allspice, and cinnamon.
Unfortunately, mature balsam fir trees, at least around me, seem to only want to grow cones at the very top of the tree, which can make getting enough for a batch of syrup tricky.
Using other conifer products
Other tree products like spruce tips, pine tips and cedar cones I've worked with are more dry, and may not ferment during the maceration process, but they can still make a fine syrup.
The point is: you can make syrups like this out of all kinds of things, and everyone I’ve had has been good. If you have spruce trees near you, take a look at the basic spruce tip syrup too, which is nearly the same, sans the fermentation. Here's a few things I've used:
- Unripe eastern white cedar cones (Thuja occidentalis. This could can be an abortifacient in high doses)
- Juniper berries (Juniperis virginiana)
- Spruce tips (many species)
The best part is figuring out how to use it. Somethings take some experimentation, mugolio not so much.
You can literally put it on just about anything where maple syrup would be good, and you’ll be glad you did. The syrup has the essence of pine, but with none of the strong tannins you’d expect If you took a bite out of a pine cone—just pure piney goodness.
Harvest young pine cones in spring or early summer
Most importantly, you are looking for unripe pine cones in the spring and early summer, not the fall, not the winter. Opened cones are not to be used.
This is up for debate, but my favorite comes from green cones as they contain more water. Purists might say that you need to harvest pine cones when they're the size of a pinky nail, or some other arbitrary size.
I can tell you after making this for years now, that any of the pine cones pictured in the image above will make a fine syrup, but smaller cones will make a syrup with a much stronger flavor, strong enough that some people may not like it.
Another good rule of thumb I've found is that whatever cone you're picking will probably be sticky and exuding resinous, sticky liquid at a prime stage for making pine cone syrup.
Green cone=higher water content
Larger green cones hold more water in them which makes syrup making much easier, and also allows for some fermentation in the process, which adds fun flavors.
As long as the cones are meristematic and tender, and can be cut through with a knife, even if it's into pieces with long cones like white spruce or balsam fir, they will make a good mugolio. The only cones that won't work, are mature, tough, barky cones, like those you'd see on the ground.
Using very young pine cones
You can use young pine cones, but they're smaller and don't hold as much water as cones that are green, so they're not ideal here.
If you really want to try with very young pine cones, try chopping them up medium to make it so more cones can be fit in a jar, which means more water, meaning an easier syrup. You can also add a splash of water to help it on it's way.
Is it safe?
Yes, this is absolutely, positively safe, and there's no need to worry about botulism. I can't speak to the exact science of spruce tip and cedar cones syrups, (also safe) but pine cone syrup is especially safe as it ferments as it macerates, due to the higher water content of the cones if harvested at the green stage.
The extended fermentation lowers the pH, making it shelf stable. Remember that sugar is a preservative, and conifer products are all naturally acidic, which is a preservative in itself.
Consider using gloves
The most prime pine and spruce cones for making syrup will be plump, but still unripe. At this stage, most of them will be very sticky and oozing a sappy resinous substance that will quickly coat your hands and will stay for hours. Consider wearing gloves to avoid sticky hand syndrome.
Choosing the right sugar
Some recipes might call for white sugar, and while it will work and give you a flavored syrup, white sugar is more dry, and I find the clear color far less attractive than the caramel color that organic, unrefined turbinado-style sugar or even light brown sugar or a similar substitute will give.
I try to avoid using plain white sugar when I can, and I highly doubt that original mugolio recipes used such highly refined products when the first adventurous people crafted them.
Use a good sugar that you can feel good about eating, and drizzling over everything, because you'll want to drizzle it, on, well, everything. Here's a list of sugars that will work
Turbinado
Turbinado is slightly more dry than commercial brown sugars, but it has an excellent flavor.
Light, golden, or dark brown sugar
These are some of the most versatile and affordable, but I suggest using a high quality organic brand. The varying molasses content of the different colors of sugar is negligible in regards to the flavor of the finished syrup.
Maple sugar
Maple sugar is the most expensive you could use, and in my opinion is not the most ideal as it's prone to crystallization from my experience. It is delicious though. If you'd like to harness the flavor of maple with your pine cones, you can just toss pine cones into maple syrup at a ratio of 1 cup of pine cones to 1 lb (2 cups) of maple syrup.
Zirbenshnaps
This stuff is unique enough that it needs a special mention. Zirbenschnaps is a liquor made with pine cones.
I’m not an expert on distillation by any means, but I’ve been working with a distillery to make similar products, and one thing we’ve been toying around with is making a rendition of it by simply using it as the sweetener in a macerated liquor.
The traditional zirbenshnaps has a red tone to its color, which makes me think they’re using a syrup made from fresh pine cones cooked immediately—not aged.
I know there’s also birch schnaps, and that’s made with reduced birch syrup, so I think using mugolio would be fine. Currently I know zirbenshnaps is only sold at ultra high-end restaurants in my area.
Whatever you make with it, it’s one of the most fascinating and delicious condiments made from wild ingredients I know of.
Making Large Batches
I occasionally make very large batches of syrup, 2 or 3 gallons at a time. Here's a few tips on doing that if it's something you're interested in, especially as this is such a fun (also cheap) and interesting thing to give as gifts. The tips below are intended for those people making 1 gallon batches and up at a time.
Skimming the foam
Similar to maple syrup, when you cook large quantities of the syrup, it will begin to froth and foam at the top and will double in size quickly.
Some cones seem to create more foam than others, especially Norway Spruce. When you notice foam during the cooking process, do your best to skim it off with a spoon and discard.
After you bring the syrup to a simmer and strain, put it back in the pot and bring it to a simmer again, let it rest for a minute or two so the syrup can settle and return to it's original volume. If you don't do this, you run the risk of having jars that are half full after settling.
Canning for long-term storage
Pour the piping hot syrup into large jars, or, for smaller ones, pour the syrup into a pitcher with a spout, and pour directly into canning jars (4 oz mason jars make a great gift). Fill the jars nearly to the brim, leaving about ⅛ inch headspace, then, working quickly, screw on the lids tight and turn the jars upside down.
You don't have to water bath-process this as it's basically the same sugar concentration as maple syrup, just make sure your jars are clean. The jars will seal naturally but should be refrigerated after opening.
Here’s a few ideas for using it, and a few things yet on my list to try.
Ideas for using
- Drizzled on pancakes, crepes waffles and other things primed for syrup.
- Use it to flavor whipped cream
- Excellent drizzled over soft cheese like mascarpone, labneh, chevre, etc.
- Drizzled over fresh fruit
- Using in place of honey, I love drizzling it over bowls of warm buttered wild rice with nuts, fruit, and yogurt for breakfast.
- It’s good in desserts, added in small amounts like you would use honey. Dairy based desserts like ice cream, panna cotta and custards of all kinds can just be seasoned to taste with it.
- Try adding small drizzles to salads, or whisking into vinaigrettes.
- Mixing it with a splash of vinegar just to loosen it a bit makes a good brush on or glaze for hams, etc.
- One of my friends adds it to whiskey
Mugolio, or Pine Cone Syrup
Equipment
- 1 quart mason jar or similar
Ingredients
- 2 cups (8 oz) young red pine or other pine cones (soft enough to be cut with a knife) *
- 2 cups (16 oz) organic brown sugar or other brown sugar, just not white which is dry and makes a clear syrup
Instructions
Maceration
- Rinse the cones in warm water to remove any foreign particles if needed. I don't usually wash them. Inspect your cones for any that have holes or insects and discard.
- Combine the sugar and pine cones and pack into a quart jar, then allow to macerate (age) for 30 days. Put the jars in a sunny place where they will get warm during the day, which will help ward off mold.
- During the first few weeks of maceration, open the jar occasionally to release carbon dioxide as the mixture will ferment vigorously. Shake it occasionally to help it on it's journey.
- As the cones release their water, the volume of the contents in the jar will decrease. Sugar slush will settle on the bottom and is natural. If you have more cones and sugar, you can add it to fill up the jar. The less air in the jar, the lower the chance of mold.
Finishing and storing
- After the maceration is complete, scrape the sugar slush and pine cones into a pot and add two tablespoons of water for each quart jar. Bring to a brisk simmer and heat through to melt the sugar, then strain and bottle. Discard the cooked cones and thank them for their service.
- All you need to do is bring the temperature up and melt the sugar, if you reduce the syrup too much it will crystalize after it cools. For the amounts listed it should take about 5-10 minutes.
- The syrup is stable at room temperature since the fermentation lowers the pH, but will keep the best flavor in the fridge. It can also be water bath processed, which I'll do if I sell it. For home storage I pour the very hot syrup into jars, screw on the lids and turn them upside down to seal.
Kathleen
Have you ever tried Dawn Redwood or European Larch cones? I have both growing on my property, and the idea intrigues me. I think the needles and/or growing tips of either would be great for this. The Dawn Redwood needles smell lightly of pine, but seem to have a much fresher scent.
Alan Bergo
I haven't tried them but I definitely would.
Vanessa
Hi Alan,
Thank you for this recipe and all your tips - it looks so exciting and I can't wait to try this!! I found some cones that are still green near the edge of the forest and I was wondering if I could use them at this late stage? Can any pine cones be used? I did take a photo and the plant app identified it as "Scot's Pine" but I'm not sure if this is ok to use?
Thank you so much in advance.
Vanessa
Alan Bergo
Hello. Pine cones picked at a later stage can contain worms and burrowing insects, along with their droppings etc. They also do not contain as much natural moisture as early green cones and I would avoid using them. Gives you something to look forward to next year.
Jamie
Good evening!
We are just finishing up.a big batch of this gorgeous syrup now. I do have a easy question for you. Do you strain in cheesecloth or just a fine mesh sieve?
I was also pretty excited to read that you are from the beautiful state if Minnesota as well. Tip of the lake for us. 😊
Alan Bergo
Hi from St Paul Jamie. You can use either but a sieve is easier and that’s what I usually use. Cheesecloth can work if you want, I like to spritz it with water if I use it.
Crista
Hi , I end up with more pine cones on top of the syrup. At this stage do I keep adding more sugar so it covers the cones again and keep doing this throughout the month?
Alan Bergo
Hi Crista. Please refer to step 4 of the recipe. You can add more cones and sugar to the jar, or you could transfer the mixture to a smaller jar. You do not just add more sugar, which would make your syrup crystalize in the jar after it's finished and stored.
Donna Howell
I started my mugolio on Aug 1 with pinon pine cones. They were green but large and covered with resin. I cut in halves and quarters. Tried to follow instructions/proportions etc meticulously. I made 2 quart jars. Both now have about 2" of syrup but both still have 2" of sugar as well and seem to be stalled at that point. Shaking and stirring doesn't seem to help. Any suggestions or should I just decant the syrup that is there and go with that?
Alan Bergo
Hi Donna, please read the recipe and refer to step 4. Undissolved sugar at the bottom of the jar is a natural part of the process it dissolves when you cook the syrup to finish it.
Frody
Hello,
Thank you for this article! How wonderful that you put all this information together and made it available to others. I have a question about the source cones I started to use. I started a batch almost a month ago using Korean Fir silverlocke cones. They are very fragrant and black in color. A friend made me question my choice; I cannot find anywhere for sure if the cones of the Korean fir can be used for syrup.
Do you know?
I appreciate your help.
Alan Bergo
Hi Frody. I've made this syrup with many different species of cones over the years and while I can't give you a definitive answer, I can tell you that I haven't used a species of cone that had any kind of negative effects. Keep in mind that you're not eating the physical cone here, and the syrup is consumed in very small amounts as for maple syrup.
Emily B
Hi Alan — I have made this with spruce cones and fir tips and my favorite use for it so far was when I made a spruce-fir panna cotta! Yum!
My question is that I recently found some green bald cypress cones and started the process with them, but I am finding conflicting information on whether cypress is actually ‘edible’ or not (although there’s not that much useful information at all on cypress edibility that I have found).
Thanks in advance for any insights you have!
Alan Bergo
Hi Emily. So, I actually have some experience making it with Arizona Cypress. Most references will say they, as well as Thuja spp are inedible or toxic, if you ate the physical cones, raw, I think they could be. I know a number of Native American chefs who serve tea made from Thuja spp, even though it's said to be an abortifacient (it could be in large doses). Keep in mind that you're not eating the cones here, only the syrup and it's in small amounts as a flavoring. Again, dosage is also important, so I wouldn't drink the whole jar in a sitting-a little sarcasm there. I'm here if you have more questions.
Emily
When you water bath, how long do you process?
Alan Bergo
I rarely water bath is as the hot syrup is enough for the jars to seal, just like maple syrup. If you want to water bath you can follow the directions for your altitude as if making cucumber pickles. 10 min pint is usually ample for me in MN.
Jana Stockwell
Hello! I'm at 33 days and ready for the next step! There is a tiny bit of mold in one little spot on top, maybe a 7mm in diameter. Is this safe to scoop out and proceed? Otherwise everything looks great!
Alan Bergo
Yes discard the cone and proceed.
Jonas Hedegaard
Hi Alan - Jonas from Denmark here 🙂 I have made two batches of pine cone syrup - but both of them have developed a layer of what looks like mold (a white substance) on top. I didn’t place the jars in the sun. They’ve been sitting for 2-3 weeks. Would it be possible to remove the uppermost affected layer/area and use the rest?
Thank you for this and a lot of other great recipes!
All the best
Jonas
Alan Bergo
Hi Jonas. There can be a lot of variation in cones, especially with the natural water content which can vary due to the stage they're picked, as well as from species to species. It's fine to remove the white layer and process the syrup as directed here-you're going to bring it to a heat that will sterilize it. In the future if you use the same cones, I'd cut them into pieces to speed up the process, you can also add a splash of water which will speed up the fermentation. Also remember to shake the jars or stir them when you remember. The syrup will coat the cones and help ward off mold. Probably the best advice I have is reducing air in the jar by adding additional cones and sugar after the first round of sugar has melted.
Mat
Hey I just made a batch with cones my partner found in a beach parking lot, but it was just brought to my attention that idk if these cones have pesticide or not. What should I do?
Ariana
I tried this with coconut sugar, and it worked really great!
Alan Bergo
Hey thanks Ariana. That sounds really good.
Jonas Hedegaard
Hi Alan - Thank you for this (and many other) recipes! I’ve made two batches - one with small round cones and another with tall slender cones. The one with the tall cones has developed a layer of mold or some white yeast substance on some of the cone parts that are above the liquid (I didn’t keep them in the sun…). Shall I discard that batch or can I discard the moldy (or what it is) parts and then still use the rest? 🙂
All th best
Jonas from Denmark
Weasels
I made it! Two mini batches from an impossibly tall Douglas Fir that shed a bough during a windy night. The cones were so heavy and sparkling with sap, I knew they had promise. I found your recipe and whipped up batches with what I had. One with organic cane sugar (blonde) and the other with dark coconut sugar. I kept them for a month and a half on our deck where they got plenty of sun, and were also investigated by our raccoon. (He didn’t break in.)
The end result is amazing! The blonde sugar made a tannic syrup that’s rosy, in color and flavor. The coconut sugar version has a real dark magic, velvety, shadowy and with a gravitas that makes it seem like it could keep good company with Cynar or other Amari. It tastes so Italian.
I have no idea what I’ll do with these, but I am thrilled to have made and now tasted something so novel and enchanting. Thank you for this recipe!
Alan Bergo
Thanks Weasels, glad it worked for you.
Sam
Do you know/think that magnolia or spruce would result in a good product?
Alan Bergo
Spruce tips yes, magnolia I haven't worked with.
Jana
Hello! I have collected some green cones from red pine trees. They are on the larger side but very green still. Do I have to chop these up prior to mixing with sugar, or is it better to leave them whole? You mentioned as long as they can be cut easily with a knife, they are suitable, but I do not see specific instructions for cutting them. Thanks for your help!
Alan Bergo
If they’re larger than a nickel or so I’d cut them into quarters.
Jana Stockwell
Thank you so much Alan!
Alan Bergo
You’re welcome
Regis Robert
Esque je peu prendre du sirop Mugolio a tout les jours? J'ai ramasser des cones de jackpine ( pin gris ) il etais vert mais plutot dur a couper, esque il son bon quand meme?
Krista Kafer
Thank you so much for this. I've been making this recipe for the last couple of months. I use the syrup to make an Italian soda every day. It's such a delicious treat. I'm in Colorado and use primarily ponderosa pine but have tossed in fir and pinyin pine when I've found them.
Alan Bergo
Thanks for sharing Krista. Italian soda sounds great.
Cathy
I have many piñon pine cones this year.
Today they have sap on them.
Is it the right time to use them?
Thank you!
Alan Bergo
I can't tell without seeing and image here. Feel free to email me one.
Brittany
If the cones are still green but too hard to cut can they still be used?
Alan Bergo
It’s too late for them this year. Try again next year.
Amy
I made this delicious recipe last year but it has crystallized in the bottle and won't pour out. I thought putting it in the hot sun would work but it has not. Should I boil the jar? Next time I will put in a wide mouth jar so I can put in a spoon and don't have to try to pour it.
Alan Bergo
Hi Amy, different cones can have varying amounts of water and that can be further complicated by the time they're harvested. Put a tablespoon of two of water in the jar and microwave or put it in a pot of simmering water until it's melted and it should come right back.
Keith
This looks super interesting, thanks for posting! I’ve got a redwood growing over my house and would love to give this a try. Redwood cones are surprisingly small when mature though, about the size of a thumbnail. This time of year they’re closer to pea gravel size, but since we’re heading into the dry season out west, I’m thinking this may be the best opportunity? Would love your thoughts, or if you’ve seen this done with either redwoods or sequoias before?
Alan Bergo
HI Keith. I haven't made it with redwoods or sequoias. If I had access to the young cones I'd definitely give them a shot though!
Kat
Hi Alan, I printed out your recipe for the syrup, the end of May, and happily found alot of trees right on the burm of my subdivision, and packed them in br. sugar. I let them ferment until yesterday, when I strained the cones out of the syrup, then, used a fine mesh strainer to strain into old liquor bottles, that I retained from earlier life partying. I did not heat it up, but, I think I can just pour all into a soup pot to heat, then do the decanting (?) again. "Finally my question" lol, it seemed to leave bits of resin on my glass jars that were a tiny bit difficult to remove, so I then started questioning how safe it would be in the bloodstream if it still had some amount of resin in it. Am I just being overly paranoid? Thanks SO much for sharing your recipes 😊
Alan Bergo
Hi Kat. Remember that the recipe says to leave the cones for 30 days, not 5 months. But, it's usually fine as long as there's not mold. You do not simply strain the syrup off, it needs to be cooked to halt the fermentation. Not cooking the syrup to halt the fermentation can create an alcohol ferment over time. Don't overthink small amounts or particles of resin, this is a very safe recipe people have been making for a long time.
Candace
I fear my 'sludge' is developing mold! What can I do, it has only been a good week...
Alan Bergo
There's a few different things to look at. It's important to harvest cones that were juicy and green, otherwise they won't contain as much liquid. Depending on the species, cutting them into pieces instead of putting them in the jar whole will also speed up the process, esp with large cones like Norway spruce. You can also fill the jar up with more cones and sugar to remove air. A little white mold is harmless, but it can affect the flavor over time. I would skim it off, fill the jar up with more cones and sugar and shake it every day. You should see visible fermentation by now.
Andy Femminineo
Alan--thanks for this fantastic guide, way more than just a recipe. I reached out to a local tree farmer and was able to get access to his field of Fraser Firs, many with perfectly sappy cones. I harvested a whole bunch yesterday and and jarred my batches today.
I had so many cones from the harvest at the tree farm that I decided to use large beer Fermenter buckets, rather than glass jars, to ferment the mugolio. This allowed me to make a couple of huge batches--roughly 5-gallons in each fermenter! I'll report back with results later, but I want to ask--have you ever tried or heard of anyone trying this method, using fermentation buckets instead of glass jars? I couldn't find any examples online of anyone trying this, but maybe it's just because I got lucky finding a good cone resource and have enough cones to make it worth the big buckets!
Alan Bergo
Hey thanks Andy. I haven’t used the buckets or heard of them, but I’ve used restaurant polycarbonate Cambro brand containers. Works like a dream. Larger batches are actually easier than small and seem to have less of a chance of crystalizing, fwiw.
Andy Femminineo
Good to know, thanks Alan! Can't wait to finish the batch in about a month or so!
Andras
Hi,
I have them in sugar since 8th July.
Now the sugar is nearly dissolved completely.
The smell and taste is changed, got sour smell, sour taste. I hope it is good.
I let the gas out every day.
The cones/sprouts are hanging out of the sugary liquid now.
Do I have to fill the jar up (at least to cover the pines)?
I don't want to use too much sugar, only if I have to use.
Do I fill up to cover them with sugar, or water, or leave ot like this?
Alan Bergo
Hello Andras. There is no way to use less sugar. You can process the cones now and cook the syrup if you want. If I fill the jar with more sugar and cones I do it immediately after the ingredients in the jar lose volume, so don’t worry about putting anything else in it now.