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Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

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Green Brittle Gills: Russula parvovirescens

Young and old quilted green russulas or Russula parovirescensQuilted green russulas, also known as green brittle gills and Russula parvovirescens are an edible wild mushroom, and the easiest Russula to bring home for the table, at least for me.

Formerly known as Russula virescens, r. parvovirescens was identified in 2006 and declared a unique species of the Eastern United States. The two mushrooms are interchangeable for culinary purposes, but R. parvovirescens has a smaller stature than R. virescens.

A mix of many different wild mushrooms

Most of the time I harvest these, it’s along with a bunch of other mushrooms in the summer.

In the summer months when the chanterelles, porcini, and other wild mushrooms are available, I’ll occasionally see a few of these. When I find young ones, or those not damaged enough by bugs to dry, they’ll go in my mushroom basket. Here’s everything I know about them.

close up on the cap of an older russula parvovirescens

You’ll be fighting the slugs and larvae for these.

Habitat

I see these mushrooms in mixed hardwood forests in the Midwest, especially those with plenty of burr and red oak mixed in. I often see them in the same habitat as lobster mushrooms, chanterelles, black trumpets and porcini. They start fruiting in the summer and I typically see the most of them in July through August.

Russula parovirescens, the quilted green russula in the woods

These are a beautiful, distinctive mushroom.

Identification

As a general rule, Russula can be difficult to identify. These are the exception. Their green cap, covered with large crustose patches in a net-like pattern that’s referred to as “quilted” are the biggest giveaways. 

Close up of a quilted green russula cap
Close up of the quilting pattern.
Close up of a russula virescens cap showing the quilting pattern
The caps may get wavy with age.

 

Occasionally I see some mushrooms with a mottled green and beige coloration you see below. 

young russula parvovirescens showing a mottled green cap
close up of a young russula parvovirescens cap showing quilting

Quick tips 

Russula parvovirescens 

  • Has a mottled green pattern on the cap, that may discolor of fade with age. 
  • Always has a white spore print.
  • Has a brittle stem and cap that’s easily chipped or broken.

Look a Likes

R. aeruginea looks similar in that it has a green cap, but the cap is pure green, with no visible quilting, or what’s referred to as “large crustose patches” on the cap. If the cap of your mushroom is pure green and smooth, it’s probably R. aeruginea, and it’s also edible. There are no poisonous look a likes to my knowledge.

Harvesting

These grow singularly here and there. If I see them growing I will start to gather them, but to get a decent amount you need to be on the look out for them.

A mature russula parvovirescens with a bug-free stems

A bug free stem is rare with these.

Young buttons are the best eating. but, no matter the age of your mushroom, you’ll be fighting the bugs who usually get to them first. The first thing I do is pluck the mushrooms from the ground, cut off the base of the stem, and inspect it for bug holes.

Russula parvovirescens, the quilted green brittle gill showing the buggy stem
Check for bug holes in the stem and remove if needed.
Russula parvovirescens, the quilted green brittle gill close up of the buggy stem
Even though this is damaged, the cap may be fine.

If the mushrooms have bug damage but seem sturdy, I may take them home and dry them.

russula stored in a tupperware container to protect it's shape

Consider putting the mushrooms in a hard-sided container in the field and at home to protect them from crumbling and chipping.

These are brittle, crumbly mushrooms, so it’s best to put them in a basket where they won’t be crushed by other, heavier fungus like lobster mushrooms you may be harvesting at the same time.

Cooking

Green brittle gills have a good, mild mushroom flavor and can be used in any of your favorite wild mushroom recipes. Since their flavor is mild, I generally avoid cream sauces and lots of dairy with them, but a little bit can be ok. Since bug damage is an issue with these, they’re a good candidate for mushroom duxelles.

Drying

Since these often have at least some bug damage, I typically end up drying them. Dehydrating concentrates their flavor.

Dried or dehydrated russula parvovirescens

Some people have compared the dried flavor and aroma to potatoes, but I think mild mushroom with an aroma of dried shrimp or fish is a better description.

Recipes 

These typically become duxelles, powder or broth in my kitchen as it’s hard to find bug-free mushrooms. Here’s a few places I’d use them or where they could be substituted. 

Mushroom Duxelles 

Dried Mushroom Duxelles 

Dried Mushroom Broth 

References

Mushrooms Demystified

100 Edible Mushrooms

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FORAGER | CHEF®
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Author: The Forager Chef’s Book of Flora
James Beard Award ‘22
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Alan Bergo
HALP! I’ve been keeping an eye on two loaded mul HALP! I’ve been keeping an eye on two loaded mulberry trees and both got a bunch of fruit knocked down by the storms and wind. 

If anyone in West WI or around the Twin Cities knows of some trees, (ideally on private property but beggars can’t be choosers) that I could climb and shake with a tarp underneath, shoot me a DM and let’s pick some! 🤙😄

TIA

#throwadogabone #mansquirrel #beattlefruit #mulberries #shakintrees
Lampascioni, or edible hyacinth bulbs are one of t Lampascioni, or edible hyacinth bulbs are one of the more interesting things I’ve eaten. 

These are an ancient wild food traditionally harvested in Southern Italy, especially in Puglia and the Salentine Peninsula, as well as Greece and Crete. I’ve seen at least 6-7 different names for them. 

A couple different species are eaten, but Leopoldia comosa is probably the one I see mentioned the most. They also grow wild in North America. 

The bulbs are toxic raw, but edible after an extended boil. Traditionally they’re preserved in vinegar and oil, pickled, or preserves in other methods using acid and served as antipasti. (Two versions in pic 3). 

They’re one of the most heavily documented traditional wild foods I’ve seen. There’s a few shots of book excerpts here.

The Oxford companion to Italian Food says you can eat them raw-don’t do that. 

Even after pickling, the bulbs are aggressively extremely bitter. Definitely an acquired taste, but one that’s grown on me. 

#traditionalfoods #vampagioli #lampascione #cucinapovera #lampascioni #leopoldiacomosa #foraging
Went to some new spots yesterday looking for poke Went to some new spots yesterday looking for poke sallet and didn’t do too well (I’m at the tip of its range). I did see some feral horseradish though which I don’t see very often. 

Just like wild parsnip, this is the exact same plant you see in the store and garden-just escaped. 

During the growing season the leaves can be good when young. 

They have an aggressive taste bitter enough to scare your loved ones. Excellent in a blend of greens cooked until extra soft, preferably with bacon or similar. 

For reference, you don’t harvest the root while the plant is growing as they’ll be soft and unappealing-do that in the spring or fall. This is essentially the same as when people tell you to harvest in months that have an R in them. 

#amoraciarusticana #foraging #horseradishleaves #horseradish #bittergreens
In Italy chicken of the woods is known as “fungo In Italy chicken of the woods is known as “fungo del carrubo” (carob tree mushroom) as it’s one of the common tree hosts there. 

My favorite, and really the only traditional recipe I’ve found for them so far is simmered in a spicy tomato sauce with hot chile and capers, served with grilled bread. 

Here I add herbs too: fresh leaves of bee balm that are perfect for harvesting right now and have a flavor similar to oregano and thyme. 

Makes a really good side dish or app, especially if you shower it with a handful of pecorino before scooping it up with the bread. 

#chickenofthewoods #fungodelcarrubo #allthemushroomtags #traditionalfoods #beebalm
First of the year 😁. White-pored chicken of t First of the year 😁. 

White-pored chicken of the woods (Laetiporus cincinnatus) are my favorite chicken. 

Superior bug resistance, slightly better flavor + texture. They also stay tender longer compared to their more common yellow-pored cousins. Not a single bug in this guy. 

#treemeat #ifoundfood #foraging #laetiporuscincinnatus #chickenofthewoods
TBT brisket face 💦. Staff meal with @jesseroes TBT brisket face 💦. Staff meal with 
@jesseroesler and crew @campwandawega
📸 @misterberndt 

#staffmeal #brisket #meatsweats #naptime
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