Kikurage / Wood Ear Mushroom

Deliciously tasteless mushrooms enjoyed around the world. Wood ear mushrooms or Kikurage in Japanese (Auricularia species) are a bit of a chewy, ear-shaped paradox. Whether you hunt the woods or the Asian grocer, In this post I'll explain what you need to know. We'll cover how and where to get them, how different varieties can be used in the kitchen, and some of my favorite wood ear recipes.

The mushrooms are best represented in Asian cuisine and are used in many places, but most of the recipes you'll see come from Chinese and Japanese cuisine.

They're one of the few mushrooms enjoyed in Japan that lack the word "take/mushroom' in their common name. They're enjoyed around the world and there's a long list of funny names from Asian countries ranging from ear fungus to rat's ear. A few of the more common names you might see are below.

English Common Names

• Wood Ear
• Black Fungus
• Tree Ear
• Jew's Ear (outdated as it's offensive)
• Ear of Judas
• Jelly Ear or Jelly Mushroom
• Cloud Ear Fungus

Wood Ear Mushroom Identification & Foraging

The mushrooms resemble fleshy, light brown ears growing from the wood of coniferous and deciduous trees. Often cup or ear-shaped, they have a gelatinous, rubbery texture that tastes better than it sounds.

Below: perfect A. angiospermarum from Minnesota. Note the tiny hairs on the sterile surface and the white bloom on the underside / spore-bearing surface that may be present when young.

The thin flesh and wrinkled, occasionally veiny appearance can help separate them from similar looking mushrooms like Exidia species. They can appear gray or brown due to the presence of tiny hairs-something none of their look-a-likes have (see above).

A saprobic fungus like oyster mushrooms, wild wood ears are commonly found on decomposing wood, logs, sticks and stumps after rainy days. They're widespread throughout North America, appearing in spring, summer and fall and even into early winter. The latest I've picked them is mid-January in Wisconsin.

Along with enoki mushrooms, Auricularia are one of the few cold-adapted fungi that can freeze at night and thaw in the day without suffering for it. I've picked them in the winter to use in soup.

Wood Ear Varieties

There's a few different types you might encounter. All woods ear varieties are edible, but there's noticeable differences between commonly sold Asian species which are all confusingly labeled as "Dried Black Fungus" or "Black Ear Fungus". Truly wild varieties will have a reddish to brownish hue as opposed to black.

Asian Species

Auricularia cornea

Formerly A. polytricha, this is the chewiest of all species I've tried. A. cornea is easy to tell apart from other varieties, as the sterile surface is coarse and hairy. Another name for the species is hairy wood ear. It can appear light brown to beige after drying instead of grey. It's tougher than other species and should be cooked in soup.

Auricularia heimuer (Black Wood Ear)

Often sold side-by-side with A. cornea, A. heimuer is probably the species sold in the most bulk around the world. Cultivated species are black-much darker than their wild cousins (see below). They're more tender than A. cornea and what I recommend buying if you want to try them.

North American Species

For a long time North American species were grouped together as Auricularia americana or previously Auricularia auricula-judae. At the time of writing, we now know there's at least 4 distinct types in North America. As time goes on more will probably be revealed.

Auricularia americana

Recently named in the last decade, A. americana is strictly a conifer decomposer that seems to prefer fallen balsam fir, often growing next to Shizopora paradoxa on the same log. I've harvested them in Northern Minnesota and Northern Wisconsin.

Auricularia angiospermarum

A. angiospermarum is the hardwood decomposing cousin of A. americana. I've picked them growing on dead oak trees and branches in Minnesota and Wisconsin. Like A. americana, they can be found for the majority of the growing season as long as there's rain.

Besides the two aforementioned species, there's also Auricularia fuscosuccinea that grows on hardwoods in the American Southeast. Auricularia nigricans is found in the American South from Louisiana through the Caribbean. All North American varieties should be interchangeable in the kitchen.

Wood Ear Mushroom Look A Likes

There's a few mushrooms that can be confused with Auricularia, but thankfully wood ears have no poisonous look alikes. Both of the look a likes below are much more soft, squishy and gelatinous than the Auriculariales.

Phaeotremella frondosa

Also known as Tremella foliacea, this fleshy, gelatinous mushroom parasitizes false turkey tail mushrooms (Stereum complicatum and others). They appear on dead and fallen hardwoods. Unlike Auricularia, they're a fused mass of translucent lobes, as opposed to more singular, individual lobes of Auricularia. Some species of Tremella are sold commercially in Asia as food.

Exidia Recisa

Exidia recisa is another jelly fungus found on decomposing hardwoods and can also survive freezing and thawing. It's common east of the Rocky Mountains and especially common in the Midwest. Unlike Tremella and Auricularia, it's more of a singular, fleshy mass than singular, defined lobes. Boiled it's probably edible and I know a dedicated mycophagist Who's tried candying it.

How to Cook Wood Ear Mushrooms / Black Fungus

Wood ears are special in that they're a mushroom that's widely enjoyed that has no flavor and is used purely for it's pleasantly crunchy texture. It adds no taste of it's own, but absorbs subtle flavors from the foods it's cooked with.

To prepare dried wood ear mushrooms they need to be rehydrated as shown in the images below. If you won't cook them, use boiling water.

Cook fresh wood ear mushroom in any recipe where you'd use dried, just skip the soaking. You'll find them slightly more tender than their dried counterparts.

General Cooking Tips:

• Conversion rate: ½ oz (14 grams) dried wood ear mushrooms will equal 3 oz (84 grams) after rehydrating and squeezing dry.
• They're a great vehicle for spicy and strong-tasting seasonings like Szechuan pepper.
• Dried or fresh mushrooms should not be sauteed in hot oil and will pop, jump, and potentially burst from the pan while cooking.
• The texture is best enjoyed by cutting in thin strips or small pieces.
• Add other mushrooms to recipes with wood ear fungus for a contrast in texture and flavor.

Wood Ear Mushroom Recipes

Wood ears can be used in any recipe where you'd like a mushroom with a chewy texture. Traditional recipes using a variety of ingredients with different colors and textures are a good place to start.

Ajitsuke Kikurage: The Wood Ear Mushroom Condiment for Ramen

Marinated mushrooms that can be put directly in soups and noodle bowls like Tonkatsu ramen, or added in a small pile as a garnish. Mix 3 oz thinly sliced fresh steamed or rehydrated mushrooms with 1 tablespoon each soy sauce and Chinkiang vinegar. Add crushed red pepper and sesame oil to taste. Herbs aren't traditional but they're appealing.

Spicy Mushroom Noodles

A good late night snack warm or cold. For one serving, take 4 oz mushrooms (⅓ wood ear) and saute them quickly with a little minced garlic and ginger. Add a splash of chicken stock and a spoonful of hot chili paste. Add sliced wood ears and simmer until thickened, then toss with 3 oz cooked noodles and plenty of sesame oil.

Hot and Sour Wood Ear Soup

A traditional recipe for you'll see in many Chinese restaurants. I like to use a blend of winter mushrooms. Serve it in small cups with a drizzle of chili oil. See the recipe here.

Wood Ear Ramen

Homemade ramen made with wood ear and shiitake mushrooms. Made with homemade broth and served with a soft egg and chili crisp it's food of the gods. See the recipe here.

Chinese Wood Ear Mushroom Salad

A great way to sample their texture the first time. The traditional Chinese salad is made from dried mushrooms cut into thin slices, seasoned with Black Chinese Chinkiang Vinegar. I add half fresh mushrooms for variety and color, along with fried shallots. The recipe's below, and it's demonstrated in the video.

More Mushrooms Enjoyed in Japan

• Maitake
• Matsutake
• Mukitake