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    Home » Types of Edible Wild Mushrooms

    Huitlacoche

    Published: Sep 10, 2022 Modified: Jan 2, 2023 by Alan Bergo This post may contain affiliate links 17 Comments

    Huitlacoche, also known as cuitlacoche, is by far the most famous of any mushroom eaten in Latin America, with a history and tradition to rival any of the most prized wild mushrooms. If you like Mexican food and haven't had it, you're missing out on a fascinating culinary delicacy of Central America.

    Huitlacoche or corn mushrooms utsilago maydis

    I grew up on a farm surrounded by corn fields stretching out as far as the eye can see, and I was taught sweet corn smut was something disgusting, a sort of plague that destroyed the fields of corn farmers.

    "An

    What is it? Well, it's type of fungus. Huitlacoche is the fruit of a fungal disease that infects corn plants, known as the fungus Ustilago maydis. Corn typically gets infected with U. maydis spores as the result of an injury or disturbance (deer nibbling corn cobs, for example) which turns the corn kernels into mushrooms known as huitlacoche galls.

    History

    Huitlacoche is the indigenous name derived from Nahuatl, the language of the Aztecs. The mushrooms were prized as a food, and I've read the corn was inoculated by smearing cut corn stalks with the black inky liquid of the mushrooms.

    A box of commercial huitlacoche ears from Mushroom Mike LLC
    Quesadillas are one of the easiest ways to enjoy your haul.

    How it grows

    After being infected, individual kernels of corn start to swell in size and turn grey. The corn kernels swell and "ripen", eventually turning black, soft, and powdery. That black mushroom powder contains the spores of the fungus that travel through the air to help the fungus spread.

    Corn mushrooms
    Cross section. All of these are good to eat, but the ones on the top are the best.

    Genus Ustilago

    Ustilago maydis is only one of a number of fungi in the Ustilago genus that infect grasses. These fungi spread by transforming part of the host plant into a vehicle for spore production.

    In China, Ustilago esculenta infects Chinese wild rice, but instead of the grains being the vehicle for spreading spores, it makes the stems swell. Just like U. maydis, U. esculenta (as the name esculent implies) is also harvested for food.

    "Huitlacoche

    Commercial sale

    Huitlacoche is now grown as an alternative corn crop in the United States by some American farmers, with the mushrooms being sold through wholesalers around the year. 25$ per pound is a common-a much higher price than cultivated mushrooms, or corn, for that matter.

    The majority is sold frozen, but on a rare occasion you might see the occasional maize mushroom at farmers’ markets in large cities. It's a highly seasonal product chefs from California to New York City have begun to use in recent years

    Boxing up cultivated huitlacoche for delivery to chefs
    Fresh huit getting boxed up for delivery to chefs on the same day at my friend's farm in Milwaukee.

    Canned

    The mushrooms are sold in small 7 oz cans, typically running about 6-8$ each. If you go to a Mexican restaurant or specialty grocery store in the United States and get the huitlacoche quesadilla, 99.9% of the time it's from a can.

    Unfortunately canned huit isn't as good as the fresh product, for a number of reasons. First, the canned version is expensive and may come already seasoned. The cans also contain plenty uninfected corn that gets cut from the cob along with the mushrooms. But, if canned is all you can find (and likely will be) it'll do in a pinch.

    The first huitlacoche farm in the Midwest, America
    This small corn field in Wisconsin is dotted with rows of inoculated corn. 

    Harvesting

    Depending on where you live, finding your own huit may be difficult. Having a field to hunt during the corn / rainy season makes it easier, but then the problem becomes how to find a field of organic corn you'd like to eat, since most field corn I know of is sprayed with chemicals.

    Another tricky thing is unlike other mushrooms, huitlacoche patches are always moving and will concentrate where disturbances are, which brings me to the next point.

    Corn cob with <span style='background-color:none;'>corn smut</span><span style='background-color:none;'> </span>from deer

    Find the disturbance

    You're looking for things that have disturbed the natural cycle of corn growth. Here's quick list of the most common I see.

    1. Edges of fields where deer feed
    2. Corn fields damaged by hail and inclement weather
    3. Fields recently flooded or that are prone to flooding

    Huitlacoche caused by deer
    If I'm looking for truly wild huit, I look for edges of fields where deer have nibbled on the cobs.

    Choose dry, grey ears that seem firm to the touch. Vendors in Mexico often wrap ears in newspaper to insulate them. Once the ears are harvested, chill or process within a 2-3 days. Huitlacoche is delicate, and heavy rain will quickly ruin it, giving mushy kernels oozing a black, inky liquid.

    Insects

    Just like other mushrooms, insects like to eat these so make sure to inspect your cobs. Looking for holes in the husk is a good way of telling if grubs and bugs are inside.

    Bugs and worms eating huitlacoche mushrooms
    The ears can be munched on by bugs, so inspect your cobs. 

    Stages of ripeness

    There's a perfect window for harvesting, but the size of that window can depend on cultural preference. Underripe, the infected corn kernels will be too bitter and unpalatable. Too ripe they become increasingly brittle and could turn to a pile of mush on the car ride home.

    Huitlacoche kernels turning to powder making spores
    As it ages, the kernels will turn black, and then to powder. These mushrooms pictured are still technically edible.

    What you want are ears with firm, plump kernels. It's fine if the kernels have a little black on them, which is common. Mushrooms exposed to air will deteriorate faster, so if mushrooms at the top of a cob look past prime, peeling the husk down can give you reveal fresher kernels underneath.

    Wisconsin Huitlacoche
    A nice looking cob. The choicest kernels are protected by the husk but all the kernels are edible.

    Preferences vary

    I have to mention the indigenous harvesting preferences. Typically, most people, even mushroom enthusiasts would say that wet or black huitlacoche is probably not good for the table. But, there's plenty of videos online of indigenous people harvesting corn smut that is grey, plump and perfect as I mentioned before, as well as old, slimy looking, or pure black.

    A fully colonized ear of cultivated huitlacoche
    Although it looks wet and weird. This whole cob of kernels is fine to eat.

    My assumption is that the kernels turn a dark hue and evolve into powdery black spores as they mature, meaning that the process of turning black is not bacterial decomposition, but rather a natural enzymatic reaction used to spread spores, or what's known as "deliquescing" in mushroom speak.

    Corn smut isn't the only mushroom to turn black and gooey, and a nearly identical analogy can be found in shaggy mane mushrooms, which can also be used as food after they deliquesce, assuming they're cooked.

    Cooking

    The taste of huitlacoche is interesting. I've had flavors vary in my collections, but one of the first things I taste is an earthy flavor, with a slight bitterness and a not-unpleasant metallic taste, sometimes, but not always followed by a corn-like sweetness.
    Huitlacoche quesadilla cut into pieces
    It's a strong flavor that some people won't like, which you can say about most things people call a delicacy.

    Huitlacoche tacos recipe
    I like to cook fresh kernels on medium heat. 

    I won't lie to you and say I loved it at first-I didn't. But, if you don't like it at first, don't give up until you've tried it a few different ways. The more I read about the history and tradition the more I wanted to give it another shot. After I met a farmer that grows it I couldn't get enough.

    Huitlacoche Puree
    Corn mushroom puree makes for a rich sauce. Great with ravioli spooned on the bottom of the plate.

    Preserving

    Huitlacoche is perishable and susceptible to moisture, so you want to process it quickly after it's harvested. Freezing is my first choice, but drying works too.

    Freezing

    If you find a good patch of corn mushrooms and want to preserve them, the best way (as well as the easiest) is to freeze them. To freeze it, I put my kernels into a vacuum bag, seal and freeze. Frozen corn mushrooms can be cooked directly from frozen, or thawed and cooked. Once they thaw they'll quickly start to release liquid.

    Frozen huitlacoche
    I freeze most of mine in 1-2 pound blocks.

    Drying

    If you work quickly, corn mushrooms can be dehydrated. I haven't come across any traditional recipes using the dried mushrooms, but they work just fine.

    To cook with the dried mushrooms, soak in water to cover, then add the water and the soaked mushrooms to recipes where you'd use it. 1 oz of dried huitlacoche will be a good substitute for two cups of fresh mushrooms, or 8 oz.

    Dried huitlacoche
    Dried mushrooms.

    Recipes

    There's a variety of dishes the mushrooms are traditionally used in. Quesadillas with Oaxaca cheese are the most popular I've seen, but pupusas, stuffed masa cakes, and tamales are all great. As the mushrooms often stand in for meat, they make a good vegetarian taco, especially with cheese. I've even seen huitlacoche ice cream.

    • Huitlacoche Quesadillas
    • Huitlaoche Choriqueso 
    • Simple Huitlacoche Tacos 
    • Smoked Shank Stew with Huitlacoche and Tepary Beans 

    More

    35 Essential Wild Mushrooms Every Forager Should Know 

    Huitlacoche choriqueso in a pan with chips
    Choriqueso or Aztec nachos: mushrooms cooked with chorizo, baked with cheese and served with chips.
    « Wild Blueberry-Hazelnut Cake with Meadowsweet Cream
    Wild Mushroom Chebureki (Crimean Fried Pastries) »

    Reader Interactions

    Comments

    1. Dan F

      August 07, 2021 at 8:20 am

      Interesting idea!

      My aunt & uncle had a small farm when I was a kid and I well remember the "corn smut" that would occasionally show up. Of course, that was waste and was always thrown out. I first tried Huitlacoche when I saw a can of it at El Burrito Mercado years ago. My take on it is that it is an almost perfect merger of the tastes of corn and mushroom.

      I absolutely love elotes... picking one up at the grill outside of El Burrito or La Guadalupana across the street (or any of the other elotes stands around the Twin Cities) on a hot summer day is a great way to take an instant trip to Mexico.

      Reply
      • Alan Bergo

        August 07, 2021 at 8:58 am

        Thanks Dan

        Reply
    2. Barbara Carr

      August 07, 2021 at 8:36 am

      5 stars
      I haven’t been able to find huitlacoche locally, so bought some in a jar. Would this make an adequate substitute in your recipe? I’ve eaten many kinds of wild mushrooms, but this stuff looks a little scary. Thanks for any advice you can give me. Your columns are an inspiration!

      Reply
      • Alan Bergo

        August 07, 2021 at 8:58 am

        Thanks, yes canned will work just fine, it’s also sold frozen as the shelf life when fresh is short.

        Reply
        • Barbara Carr

          August 07, 2021 at 8:44 pm

          5 stars
          Thank you. I’m excited to try it, finally!

          Reply
        • Vanessa P

          August 31, 2021 at 4:36 am

          5 stars
          The first time I had it was in a southwestern goulash with tortillas. It is a food that not only stimulates your palate, but your brain and your heart. You just feel good all over. I would label this as a superfood.

          Reply
          • Alan Bergo

            August 31, 2021 at 8:24 am

            I completely agree

            Reply
    3. lisa

      August 07, 2021 at 12:03 pm

      5 stars
      I read a study that showed the price per ear that farmers can get for corn infected with corn smut is WAY higher than uninfected corn, so maybe it will become more readily available over time.

      The featured recipe here is literally making my mouth water.

      Reply
    4. Eben Lenderking

      August 07, 2021 at 1:58 pm

      5 stars
      This is great, and I have been curious about whether it could be obtained in the US...I had heard of some people harvesting it in PA, but hadn't found it. I live also in Mexico part time, and there I can find it fresh in the shop.

      I make a salsa from it, and it is divine. I serve it on grilled fish and on grilled meat. And it adds a kind of zesty umami-citrus-nuttiness to the dish. It is fantastic.

      It was weird, but I was talking to a friend about your book the other day, and also about Huitlacoche in the same conversation, and there you are posting away. Loving your book.

      Reply
      • Alan Bergo

        August 08, 2021 at 7:18 am

        Thanks Eben, how do you make the salsa? It sounds great.

        Reply
    5. robert fuller

      May 22, 2022 at 5:06 am

      any idea if huitlacoche can be produced like tempeh is?

      Reply
      • Alan Bergo

        May 22, 2022 at 8:16 pm

        I don’t really follow, can you clarify that a bit?

        Reply
    6. Russell

      August 09, 2022 at 3:34 pm

      I grew up in farm country thinking corn smut was poison and nasty and ick.
      Then I tried some. It was delicious.
      Now I want to grow it. Found a source for spore syringes.
      Does it have to be grown on a living corn plant or can it be cultivated like oyster mushrooms, on substrate?

      Reply
      • Alan Bergo

        August 12, 2022 at 4:13 pm

        I've never heard of it being cultivated from substrate, but that's an interesting thing to consider. I'll ask my friend who grows it as I'm going down to harvest this weekend.

        Reply
      • Jacqui

        September 11, 2022 at 8:19 am

        Hi Russel,
        Ustilago is an obligate biotroph. It only grows in living plant tissue so you will need a corn plant to get corn smut. Sad but true.

        Reply
    7. Jessica

      September 10, 2022 at 4:32 pm

      Great article. I love huitlacoche and enjoyed learning more about them. And great pictures!

      Reply
    8. Aurora

      September 12, 2022 at 3:25 am

      Like wow ! Ive never heard of this - wanting sooo much to try it, i live in Australia, wonder if it is corn growing 'problem' here (read kangaroos instead of deer xx) thankyou Alan, i look forwards to your posts, to see what new food i am going to learn about.

      Reply

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