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Spring Sochan and Watercress with Venison Ham

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venison ham, watercress, sochan When spring arrives, greens are on my mind, and there are tons for cooking: nettles, waterleaf, violets, wood nettles, but sometimes I want some raw.

Two of the best wild greens for eating raw are sochan and watercress. Watercress is widely known as an edible, but sochan, or Rudbeckia laciniata, the Cherokee rite of spring, can be great for eating raw too, but it needs to be the very young shoots, as once the plant starts to form it’s yearly flower stalk, it will get tougher, and needs to be cooked.

Watercress and ham is traditional in Europe, the spicy cress cutting through the richness of the smoked meat, so that’s where I started with this, but the sochan was so young, tender and perfect I couldn’t resist adding some.

sochan, sochani, rudbeckia laciniata, young sochan, spring sochan,

Little baby sochan, rudbeckia laciniata, or cut-leaf coneflower.

The venison ham is straightforward, just a simple ham brine (I typically riff off of the one in Charcuterie by Brian Polcyn). Typically, if you flay out deer, you’ll have individual muscles, and they’re perfect for making ham. There’s a certain magic letting game meat sit in a brine and then smoking it, no matter the muscle, no matter the creature, it will come out tender, as long as you slice it against the grain. Goose, bear, deer, duck-all will take to the ham method really well. Most people won’t even know it’s game meat anymore either, since the brine has a way of cloaking any sort of rich tastes people associate with game meat.

The method is really simple here, warm up the ham gently in a good amount of butter and a splash of stock, don’t re-cook it really, just warm it up to infuse the butter, then put the hot meat on a hot plate, along with the fresh greens, douse the butter and meat juices with a dash of lemon or vinegar for acid, and spoon them over the top. Easy, especially if you have a couple deer hams laying in the freezer, as brined, smoked meat also wards off freezer burn, unlike other par-cooked meat.

Obviously the ham is the most intensive thing here, so I’m just going to outline a method for composing the dish afterwords, it’s simple food, really, and just think of all the ways you can use butter infused with meat juices. The key to keeping the butter creamy is to adjust the liquid as needed, and not to boil it, or it will separate and get oily.

Keep an eye on the ham and butter, and give it a splash of stock or water as needed, a whisk helps too, after the ham is removed and you’re reducing the sauce gently to pour over all the crunchy, tender fresh cress and sochan.

venison ham, watercress, sochan

venison ham, watercress, sochan
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Spring Sochan and Watercress with Venison Ham

A spring salad of warm venison ham, sochan and watercress

Ingredients

  • 4 ounces venison or other high quality ham, sliced as thin as possible
  • 1.5 ounces fresh watercress and sochan a few good handfuls washed and dried
  • Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/4 cup meat stock or water
  • Dash of fresh lemon juice or white wine vinegar to taste

Instructions

  • Warm the ham, butter and stock gently, swirling the pan to help the juices emulsify. When the ham is warm remove it to a warm plate, along with the greens.
  • Meanwhile, swirl the juices in the pan and reduce a bit over medium heat. The pan sauce should be creamy-ish, definitely not oily and broken.
  • If the sauce has reduced too much, add a little water, heat and whisk it back to a nice consistency that can coat a spoon. Drizzle the sauce over the sochan, watercress and venison ham and eat.

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🌱Ephemeral Week🌱 Last entry. I’ve saved t 🌱Ephemeral Week🌱

Last entry. I’ve saved the smallest, fern gulliest plant for last. 

False Mermaid Weed (Floerkea proserpinacoides) is a good little plant Sam Thayer showed me. It’s tiny, as in all the photos are from me on my belly, in a wet ditch. It’s so small it’s hard to get the camera to even focus on it (see pic with my finger for scale). 

Mermaid weed likes wet areas, like ditches and spots that hold a bit of water (perfect mosquito habitat😁). 

Like chickweed, Floerkia greens are like nature’s Microgreens. They’re in the Limnanthaceae, (a new-ish group of brassicas) and like the Toothwort form earlier this week, you’ll taste a strong mustard-family flavor in a mouthful of their tender stems. 

They’re literally wild mustard sprouts, and, unlike other wild sprouts (garlic mustard 🤬) they stay sprouts, and, they actually taste good. 

It has a wide range over much of the eastern and western U.S., and is listed as secure globally, but is endangered in some states and shouldn’t be disturbed in those places. 

I’m lucky enough to have some large colonies near me so I do clip a few handfuls each year-my annual reward for removing some of the garlic mustard nearby, that, along with atvs, dirt bikes, and contamination from local water pollution, is one of the biggest threats to this tiny green. 

#floerkiaproserpinacoides 
#wildsprouts #mustardsprouts #ferngully #tiny #foraging #mermaid #🧜‍♀️
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Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica) are one of the most beautiful harbingers of spring I know, as well as one of the most delicious. 

They’re in the Borage family, along with the namesake plant, Comfrey (which I only eat a few flowers of occasionally) and Honeywort. 

The flavor of the greens, like borage, has a rich flavor some people might describe as mushroomy or fishy, but after a just a few moments of cooking (30-60 seconds) they get mild and delicious, with a subtle bitterness. It’s a good bitter though-nothing like dandelions or garlic mustard that aren’t fit to be in the same basket, let alone on the same plate. 

The shoots are sweet and delicious, much more mild than the greens. As they can grow to be over a foot long, they’re almost more of a vegetable than a leafy green, depending on when you harvest them. 

Bluebells love moist, rich soil, but you don’t have to go to the woods to get them. Many people know Virginia Bluebells as a garden plant, and they can make a great edible addition to your landscape.

#virginiabluebells #foraging #ephemerals #springwildflowers #wildfoodlove #mertensiavirginica
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Narrow-leaved Wild Leek / White Ramp (Allium burdickii) 

If you’re in a ramp patch you might occasionally see some with white stems (pic 1,2). These are a cousin to the more common variety with much larger leaves and red stems (pic 3,4,5)

Allium burdickii is not as common as the red-stemmed variety, and in every ramp patch I’ve been in, the white ramp is heavily outnumbered. 

Where I harvest, I like to leave them alone, and mark the areas where they grow with sticks or middens on the ground so I can go back in the fall and help them spread their seeds. I also try and remove garlic mustard when I see it-a much more imminent threat in my mind to ramps than foragers out to gather some leaves. 

2020 was a banner year for ramp seeds, and you can still help the plants right now (pic 7) as some seed heads are still full and would love for you to give them a shake as you walk by. 

#alliumburdickii #ramps #ephemerals #foraging #spring
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#4: Erythronium leaves 

Erythronium (Trout Lily) are another ephemeral that I see widespread in my ramp patches, there’s at least 32 species world-wide, with at least one endangered species in MN (Dwarf Trout Lily). 

They’re a beautiful, delicious plant I eat every year, but I can’t recommend serving them to the general public. Plenty of people say these are edible, but also emetic if eaten in “quantity”. 

I can tell you, at least with E. albidum and E. americanum I’ve eaten, that some people are much more sensitive than others, so if you want to make a salad to serve people, make sure they’re comfortable eating it, and use a few leaves as a garnish. 

Funny enough, I didn’t learn about these from a foraging book. Like knotweed, I learned about them from one of my favorite chefs: Michel Bras, one of the most influential chefs of the turn of the 21 century. 

Any chef that works with wild plants owes a debt to Bras. His book, although a little dated now, still teaches me new things all the time. While flipping through the book I also caught a recipe using tansy flowers 😳 that I’d probably pass on. 

The whitefish crusted with sunflower seeds is a dish of mine from 2012, and an example of how I eat the leaves: a few at a time, as a garnish. 

#troutlily #erythronium #michelbras #ephemerals #foraging
🌱Ephemeral Week🌱 Plant #3: Cutleaf Toothwor 🌱Ephemeral Week🌱

Plant #3: Cutleaf Toothwort (Cardamine concatenata) is another beautiful spring wildflower that loves to grow in the same habitat you’ll see ramps and spring beauty. 

Its small at first, but grows to a worthy size for eating as it flowers. It’s related to cabbage and mustard greens (Brassicaceae) and eating just a few leaves will give you a potent, spicy pop of mustard-family flavor reminiscent of horseradish. 

Eaten in combination with other things, like in a salad, the flavor becomes submissive and you’ll barely know it’s there. 

Some people eat the spicy roots shaped like canine teeth, but for the work I hardly think they’re worth it. 

A great wild spring green for the salad bowl-eat them leaves, tender stem, flowers and all🤤. 

#cutleaftoothwort #cadamineconcatenata #ephemeral #springedibles #foraging #wildfoodlove
🌱Ephemeral Week🌱 Plant #2 is Virginia water 🌱Ephemeral Week🌱

Plant #2 is Virginia waterleaf, and, I’m cheating a bit as it’s semi-ephemeral. The plant comes up in spring and goes to flower, but gives a second harvest of fresh growth in the fall, where other ephemerals I know do not. 

This is a great starter wild green-easy to recognize with the splashes of white on the leaves that may or may not be present. After you learn it though, don’t be surprised if, like me, you eventually pass it up for more delicious greens nearby. 

The plant gets tough quick, and the flavor is..meh, so I usually have small amounts of very young greens in blends of blanched and sautéed mixes. 

My favorite part is the wee flower buds, that, if you get at the right time, can be harvested in decent quantity and are good steamed as they’ll soak up oil sautéed. 

#hydrophyllumvirginianum #waterleaf #foraging #fueledbynature #weedeater
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