• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer

FORAGER | CHEF

Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

  • Home
  • About
  • Mushrooms
    • Mushroom Archive
    • Posts by Species
      • Other Mushrooms
        • Lobster Mushrooms
        • Huitlacoche
        • Shrimp of the Woods
        • Truffles
        • Morels
        • Shaggy Mane
        • Hericium
        • Puffball
      • Polypores
        • Hen of the Woods
        • Dryad Saddle
        • Chicken of The Woods
        • Cauliflowers
        • Ischnoderma
        • Beefsteak
      • Chanterelles
        • Black Trumpet
        • Hedgehogs
        • Yellowfeet
      • Gilled
        • Matsutake
        • Honey Mushrooms
        • Russula / Lactarius
          • Candy Caps
          • Saffron Milkcap
          • Indigo Milkcap
      • Boletes
        • Porcini
        • Leccinum
        • Slippery Jacks
    • Recipes
      • Fresh
      • Dried
      • Preserves
    • The Basics
  • Plants
    • Plant Archive
    • Leafy Green Recipes
      • Leafy Green Plant Varieties
    • Ramps and Onions
    • Wild Herbs and Spices
      • Spruce and Conifers
      • Pollen
      • Prickly Ash
      • Bergamot / Wild Oregano
      • Spicebush
      • Golpar / Cow Parsnip
      • Wild Carraway
    • Wild Fruit
      • Wild Plums
      • Highbush Cranberry
      • Wild Grapes
      • Rowanberries
      • Wild Cherries
      • Aronia
      • Nannyberry
      • Wild Blueberries
    • From The Garden
    • Nuts, Roots, Tubers and Grains
    • Stalks and Shoots
  • Meat
    • Four-Legged Animals
      • Venison
      • Small Game
    • Poultry
    • Fish/Seafood
    • Offal and Organ Meat Recipes
    • Charcuterie
  • Recipes
    • Pickles, Preserves, Etc
    • Fermentation
    • Condiments
    • Appetizers
    • Soup
    • Salad
    • Side Dishes
    • Entrees
    • Baking
    • Sweets
  • Video
    • Field, Forest Feast (The Wild Harvest)
    • Foraging Videos
    • Lamb and Goat Series
    • YouTube Tutorials
  • Press
    • Podcasts / Interviews
  • Work
    • Public Speaking
    • Charity and Private Dinners
    • Forays / Classes / Demos

Kinome Leaves

kinome, sansho, wild szechaun peppercorn leaves prickly ash

Kinome leaves

In Minnesota and the surrounding area, its too cold for citrus plants to grow, or is it? Prickly ash/Zanthoxylum species is technically in the rue/citrus family. It doesn’t make a fruit like a lemon or lime, but it does make fruit-small, limey tasting berries which are technically wild Szechuan peppercorns, which I talked about previously in this post here. I like adding the berries to things were fresh citrus would be good, especially with raw or cured fish.

Zanthoxylum, wild szechaun peppercorn, or prickly ash berries

I’ve found unripe green berries of the plant all taste great, no matter what species, and can be eaten raw or packed in salt or brine to preserve them. They pack a great citrus punch.

Here and there I saw that in Japanese, the leaves are referred to as “kinome”, derived from ki (tree) me (bud) respectively, and also as “sansho”. The traditional berries harvested for sale and imported to the U.S. should be: Zanthoxylum simulans and Zanthoxylum bungeanum.

Prickly ash is everywhere, so there are plenty of leaves to try. But every time I tasted them I thought, “There’s nothing special about this!”. The taste was always bland and spinach-y with only a hint of the citrus flavor the unripe green berries have, they really weren’t exciting at all.

One day my girlfriend and I were taking a walk up the hill on her farm by where the prickly ash bushes were, and as we walked past, I thought of how unimpressed I was with the leaves, and we talked about them for a while on our walk.

kinome, sansho, wild szechaun peppercorn leaves prickly ash

Talking about food has a way of making you crave it, so I munched on a kinome leaf, still unimpressed. As we walked by one of the bushes, my girlfriend plucked another leaf and tried it. “Oh this one is really good!” she said. I tasted one from the same plant, and it was much more interesting than the other I’d just eaten, It was a dead ringer for kaffir lime, the citrus-y leaves used in curries.

It took me a little while to understand what was going on with the leaves, but now I understand. Just like with hunting porcini, the difference in flavor was because I’d been eating not one, but a number of different species of prickly ash, and they don’t all taste the same.

Foraged Kinome, Szechuan Peppercorn, Zanthoxylum, or Sansho Leaves_

Two different species of kinome leaves. My favorite are on the right. Note their smaller size, close proximity of leaves, larger number of leaves per branch, and lack of a waxy coating compared to the species on the left.

The flavor of the leaves is powerful, but delicate at the same time. To release their perfume, the leaves need to be chewed, or broken up somehow, otherwise you won’t taste them at all. I’ve seen Japanese cooking shows where they put whole sprigs of the plant in their palm and “clap” it to activate it’s scent, which works ok, my line cooks sure get a kick out of it. Also, the more ingredients that are in a dish, the less you will taste the leaves, less is really more with these, and they need to be on their own to shine.

So, my assumption is that the one tasty species I’ve come across is about as close to “real” Szechuan peppercorn species as I’m going to get here in Minnesota. Like I mentioned, It’s been very difficult to find a species of prickly ash with good tasting leaves here in the Midwest, but they’re out there and if you taste the right one, you’ll know it.

I’ve noticed a similarity in the leaves of different species too, mainly that the leaves of the tasty species are a bit smaller, and more ovoid than the others, as well as being closer together and more numerous on the branch. Other than that though, you really just have to taste them to see the difference.

Like I said, I love to serve these with fish. Here’s my favorite summer preparation so far-a light tuna tartare that features both the berries and the leaves of this special plant.Ahi Tuna Tartare With Kinome Leaves, Wild Szechuan Peppercorns and Lemon Aioli

 Ahi Tuna Tartare With Pickled Ramps, Lemon Aioli, Szechaun Peppercorns and Kinome Leaves

Serves 2 as an appetizer

Ingredients

  • 2 ounces fresh no.1 ahi tuna, diced ½ inch
  • Fresh kinome leaves, to garnish
  • 1 teaspoon pickled ramps, sliced (see recipe)
  • 2 tablespoons lemon aioli (see recipe)
  • Kosher salt
  • Virgin sunflower oil
  • A few green Szechuan peppercorns
  • White rice crackers, (see recipe)

Method

Season the tuna with salt and a little of the sunflower oil, pickled ramps and a few of the Szechuan peppercorns to taste, making sure to double check the seasoning before you plate the dish. On the middle of a chilled plate, place the tablespoons of the lemon aioli, then put a small ring mold down and pack the tuna mixture into it, pressing down lightly with a spoon to make it stay put. Garnish with some of the kinome leaves and a rice cracker, then serve immediately.

Related

Previous Post: « Chicken of The Woods Lemon Cream Sauce
Next Post: Berry Infused Vinegar »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Jessi Peterson

    July 22, 2016 at 11:50 pm

    Well, that puts a whole new light on prickly ash – I have a hillside full of it and have been struggling not to hate it – it’s a native, as opposed to buckthorn, the other bane of my existence. I probably can’t eat my way out of prickly ash, but I can at least put it in the “useful” category now.

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      August 5, 2016 at 4:49 pm

      Very true. Unfortunately I’ve yet to find any use for buckthorn.

      Reply
  2. Sam Schaperow

    October 11, 2017 at 11:13 pm

    “technically wild Szechuan peppercorns”
    Wouldn’t it be not “technically” since what’s wild there aren’t the species found in the Old World that are the actual “Szechuan peppercorns”?

    Reply
  3. botanyboy

    November 18, 2018 at 8:07 pm

    It is unlikely you are sampling different species of zanthoxylum if you are in minnesota, as there is only one species that grows there, Zanthoxylum americanum. The only other native species is Zanthoxylum clava-herculis, which grows in the Southeast. There are a few other species of Zanthoxylum known to be introduced into the U.S. but they are all either in Florida or Texas and adjacent areas, I think. It is more likely that the tastier leaves you are eating are the younger ones. Kinome is traditionally prepared in the spring, right after the tree puts out its tender young leaves. Regardless, your recipe sounds delicious.

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      November 19, 2018 at 8:55 am

      Yes these have been confusing, and is why I absolutely don’t claim to be a botanist. I would agree with what you’re saying but they’re confusing in part because the tasty leaves I pick I gather throughout the year, and different plants have leaves of different shapes. I have only seen the tasty leaves in two areas so far, typically I see what I assume is Z. americanum, as you say.

      Reply
      • PY

        August 12, 2020 at 11:25 am

        Kinome are picked in the spring, only the tiny tender outer tips. Grind some to a paste in a suribachi*. Add a bit of white miso, sugar & rice vinegar**. It’s an addictive sauce to serve with chilled tender slices of octopus but could be a sauce for salads or grilled dishes.
        * = or mortar/pestle but suribachi is more efficient.
        ** = or lemon

        Reply
        • Alan Bergo

          August 13, 2020 at 9:49 am

          Great tip. Thanks. Would you say this is similar to kinome-ae?

          Reply
          • Akiko

            July 23, 2021 at 6:44 am

            Yes.
            I’m in search for Sansho tree for 2 decades. I got many from 2 different sources over years. Here in zone 9, it is so hard to creat the better surroundings for Sansho..
            One day, I found a prickly ash on the edge of the garden in my whiskey barrel. It survived subzero winter storm that killed my fig trees and the above 100 degree summers. To my surprise…the younger leaves taste just like real Japanese Sansho!!! Now, I just need to walk around and find the fruits in April or May next year!!!!

          • Alan Bergo

            July 23, 2021 at 12:43 pm

            Akiko, glad you found some!

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recipe Rating




Primary Sidebar

2022 James Beard Nominee

beard award

Subscribe (It’s free)

ORDER THE BOOK

UPDATED OPTIONS FOR CA / EU / US the forager chefs book of flora by Chef Alan Bergo

Forager Chef

Forager Chef

Footer

Instagram

foragerchef

FORAGER | CHEF®
🍄🌱🍖
Author: The Forager Chef’s Book of Flora
2022 James Beard Nominee
Host: Field Forest Feast 👇
streaming on @tastemade

Alan Bergo
Morels: the only wild mushroom I count by the each Morels: the only wild mushroom I count by the each instead of the pound. 

Good day today, although my Twin Cities spots seem a full two weeks behind from the late spring. 2 hours south they were almost all mature. 

76 for me and 152 for the group. Check your spots, and good luck! 

#morels #murkels #mollymoochers #drylandfish #spongemushroom #theprecious
The first time I’ve seen fungal guttation-a natu The first time I’ve seen fungal guttation-a natural secretion of water I typically see with plants. 

I understand it as an indicator that the mushrooms are growing rapidly, and a byproduct of their metabolism speeding up. If you have some clarifications, chime in. 

Most people know it from Hydnellum 
peckii-another polypore. I’ve never seen it on pheasant backs before.

Morels are coming soon too. Mine were 1 inch tall yesterday in the Twin Cities. 

#guttation #mushroomhunting #cerioporussquamosus #pheasantback #naturesbeauty
Rain and heat turned the flood plain forest into a Rain and heat turned the flood plain forest into a grocery store. 

#groceryshopping #sochan #rudbeckialaciniata #foraging
Italian wild food traditions are some of my favori Italian wild food traditions are some of my favorite. 

Case in point: preboggion, a mixture of wild plants, that, depending on the reference, should be made with 5-23 individual plants. 

Here’s a few mixtures I’ve made this spring, along with a reference from the Oxford companion to Italian food. 

The mixture should include some bitter greens (typically assorted asters) but the most important plant is probably borage. 

Making your own version is a good excercise. Here they’re wilted with garlic and oil, but there’s a bunch of traditional recipes the mixture is used in. 

Can you believe this got cut from my book?!

#preboggion #preboggiun #foraging #traditionalfoods
Oh the things I get in the mail. This is my kind Oh the things I get in the mail. 

This is my kind of tip though: a handmade buckskin bag with a note and a handful of bleached snapping turtle claws. 😁😂 

Sent in by Leslie, a reader. 

Smells like woodsmoke and the cat quickly claimed it as her new bed. 

#buckskin #mailsurprise #turtleclaws #thisimylife #cathouse
Bluebell season. Destined for a Ligurian ravioli Bluebell season. 

Destined for a Ligurian ravioli as a replacement for the traditional borage greens. 

#mertensiavirginica #virginiabluebells #spring #foraging
Load More... Follow on Instagram

Privacy

  • Privacy Policy

Affiliate Disclosure

 I may earn a small commission for my endorsement, recommendation, testimonial, and/or link to any products or services from this website. Your purchases help keep this website free and help with the many costs involved with this site as it has continued to grow over the years. 

Copyright © 2022 ·