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Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

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Jacques Chibois’s Carbonara of Chanterelles and Black Trumpets

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Carbonara of Chanterelle and Black Trumpet MushroomsGetting to meet one of your personal heroes is a great experience. Since I’m a food nerd, most of my heroes are chef’s or personalities somewhere in the industry, with the exception of Marcus Arelius. When I went to Provence last year, I had the chance to eat at Jacques Chibois, whose work I’ve been following since I was a teenager.

Chibois’s restaurant is in Grasse, the beautiful perfume capitol of Provence known for it’s lavender fields where workers still pick flowers in the early morning before the heat of the sun dulls their perfume. Chibois’s restaurant and hotel sit on an old olive grove built in Roman times, oozing history alongside the smell of obscure herbs, flowers and fruits.

Dinner was fantastic, and we were lucky to arrive during mushroom season. One of my favorite dishes was a “carbonara” of chanterelles fresh pasta and local ham. Of course a carbonara of little chanterelles will taste great, that’s a given, what I thought was a really creative was the garnish-a raw julienne of black trumpet mushrooms. There’s often a lot of hot debates in the mushroom community about eating mushrooms raw for a number of reasons I won’t get into, but the trumpets here are a great example of how to sample them in the purest form, treating them a bit like you would truffles.

Carbonara of Chanterelle and Black Trumpet Mushrooms

I’ve recreated his dish for you as It was served to me, as well as a variation that includes cream. Both are very good, although the cream version is more rich. I might use both versions here and there depending on how I’m feeling and the capacity of my line cooks. If’ you’ve never added raw eggs to food like this before, the cream version is a little more stable and less finicky the the raw egg-pasta water version.

A few words of advice on carbonara. First absolutely, positively, do not add whole eggs to a carbonara. Egg whites contain much more water compared to fat than egg yolks, and if you toss them in raw like the egg yolks they’ll still cook, but they’ll make the pasta sauce watery and insipid.

Secondly, it’s important that the pasta be tossed in a separate mixing bowl with the egg yolk and other ingredients. Tossing it in a still hot pasta pan will over cook the egg and give you curdles, instead of a rich, creamy sauce. If you try your hand at the second version of this with cream you can take the pan off the heat and add the yolks since the cream insulates them a bit.

Carbonara of Chanterelle and Black Trumpet Mushrooms

Carbonara of Chanterelle and Black Trumpet Mushrooms
Print Recipe
5 from 3 votes

Chanterelle and Black Trumpet Mushroom Carbonara

In America, carbonara has been bastardized into a very heavy, creamy abomination usually laden with chemically smoked ham or conventionally made bacon (which is also often artificially smoked), so I urge you to at least attempt this recipe without the cream at least once in your life, using a splash of pasta water instead--it's deceptively light and makes a great, quick meal in any season. 
Prep Time30 mins
Cook Time20 mins
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Italian
Keyword: Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Carbonara, Chanterelle mushrooms
Servings: 2

Ingredients

  • 4 ounces homemade spaghetti or another long pasta
  • 2 egg yolks preferably high quality farm eggs
  • 1 ounce unsmoked ham like prosciutto, cut into ¼ inch julienne
  • ¼ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  • 3 ounces young golden chanterelle mushrooms rinsed in water and layed to dry on towels, if dirty
  • A few fresh black trumpet mushrooms cut into 1/8 inch julienne
  • Fresh snipped chives to garnish
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • Fresh grated nutmeg optional, but recommended

Instructions

  • Bring a pot of boiling salted water to a boil for the pasta. Melt the butter over medium heat, then add the chanterelles and cook slowly until just lightly browned, then add 1/4 cup heavy cream and cook for a few minutes.
  • Remove the pasta from the water, then transfer immediately to a mixing bowl and toss well with the ham, egg yolk, cheese, 1 tablespoon of the pasta water and the chanterelles. Divide the pasta between two preheated dinner bowls, garnish with the black trumpets and chives and serve immediately.

More 

The Forager’s Guide to Black Trumpet Mushrooms

 

 

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Lori Martin

    August 25, 2016 at 5:57 pm

    Please clarify, are the black trumpets cooked or raw? I thought that black trumpet could not be eaten raw.

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      August 25, 2016 at 7:51 pm

      Hi Lori! When I was served the dish, the trumpets are cut into a fine julienne and sprinkled on top raw. It’s a miniscule amount, and nothing to be afraid of from my experience. But, if you want to cook them, a great trick to do would be to slice the trumpets thin and toss them in a little flour, tap off the excess and fry until crisp, they’ll make a crunchy garnish-a method I use for making croutons out of black trumpets and yellowfoot mushrooms, as well as thinly sliced shallots.

      Reply
      • Terri Spears

        June 30, 2020 at 10:26 am

        How long can you keep them if you fry them? And how, fridge or pantry? Thank you. WonderWonder recipes! recipes!

        Reply
        • Alan Bergo

          June 30, 2020 at 1:06 pm

          You can keep them out in a pantry for a day or two, just refresh the before eating by toasting. Don’t try that willy nilly with other species though. Holding in the fridge will keep them longer, again, refresh by toasting in a moderate oven to re-crisp before eating.

          Reply
  2. George Heibel

    August 19, 2018 at 3:50 pm

    Great Recipe! I made it with fresh wild cinnabar chanterelles and riccota, and without prosciutto.
    I spread the sliced black trumpets over the sautéing chanterelles right before they were ready to come off to lightly cook them, then tossed with the parm, yolks, chives, ricotta & hot pasta+water. I think this kept the fresh trumpet taste and still allowed a little cooking.
    And nutmeg in the chanterelles was a great add!

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      August 22, 2018 at 9:05 am

      That sounds like a great variation! Admittedly, the raw trumpets are kind of a novelty, but it was important to me to share the original recipe I tasted there. Some of the other ones I ate during the dinner I’ve taken a little liberty with since some of the ingredients are hard to come by in the states.

      Reply
  3. Kristina

    August 2, 2021 at 8:34 pm

    5 stars
    My third year in MI and my first time ever to find chanterelle and black trumpet mushrooms! So naturally following your great website and recipes I had to try it! I did use pancetta (home made) in lieu of ham and green onions instead of chives… but the taste was still amazing! I also didn’t dare eat trumpets raw (though I do the taste test when in field)… so maybe next year I will be better at following the instructions 😉
    Thank you for sharing!!

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      August 3, 2021 at 1:18 pm

      Glad it worked for you. Yes, the raw trumpets are just a garnish, and optional, but it’s how Chef Chibois served it.

      Reply

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I made vegan fish sauce from ramp juice. You tak I made vegan fish sauce from ramp juice. 

You take the pure juice of the leaves, mix it with salt, Koji rice, and more chopped fresh ramp leaves, then ferment it for a bit. 

After the fermentation you put it into a dehydrator and cook it at 145-150 F for 30 days. 

The slow heat causes a Maillard/browning reaction over time. 

After 30 days you strain the liquid and bottle it. It’s the closest thing to plant-based fish sauce I’ve had yet. 

The potency of ramps is a pretty darn good approximation of the glutamates in meat. But you could prob make something similar with combinations of other alliums. 

The taste is crazy. I get toasted ramp, followed by mellow notes from the fermentation. Potent and delicate at the same time. 

I’ve been using it to make simple Japanese-style dipping sauces for tempura etc. 

Pics: 
2: Ramp juice 
3: Juicy leaf pulp 
4: Squeezing excess juice from the pulp
5: After 5 days at 145F 
6: After 30 days 
7: Straining through Muslin to finish

#ramps #veganfishsauce #experimentalfood #kojibuildscommunity #fermentation #foraging
Oeufs de Gaulle is a classic morel recipe Jacques Oeufs de Gaulle is a classic morel recipe Jacques Pepin used to make for French president Charles de Gaulle. 

You bake eggs in a ramekin with shrimp topped with creamy morel sauce and eat with toast points. 

Makes for a really special brunch or breakfast. Recipe’s on my site, but it’s even better to watch Jacques make it on you tube. 

#jacquespepin #morels #shrimp #morilles #brunchtime
Morels: the only wild mushroom I count by the each Morels: the only wild mushroom I count by the each instead of the pound. 

Good day today, although my Twin Cities spots seem a full two weeks behind from the late spring. 2 hours south they were almost all mature. 

76 for me and 152 for the group. Check your spots, and good luck! 

#morels #murkels #mollymoochers #drylandfish #spongemushroom #theprecious
The first time I’ve seen fungal guttation-a natu The first time I’ve seen fungal guttation-a natural secretion of water I typically see with plants. 

I understand it as an indicator that the mushrooms are growing rapidly, and a byproduct of their metabolism speeding up. If you have some clarifications, chime in. 

Most people know it from Hydnellum 
peckii-another polypore. I’ve never seen it on pheasant backs before.

Morels are coming soon too. Mine were 1 inch tall yesterday in the Twin Cities. 

#guttation #mushroomhunting #cerioporussquamosus #pheasantback #naturesbeauty
Rain and heat turned the flood plain forest into a Rain and heat turned the flood plain forest into a grocery store. 

#groceryshopping #sochan #rudbeckialaciniata #foraging
Italian wild food traditions are some of my favori Italian wild food traditions are some of my favorite. 

Case in point: preboggion, a mixture of wild plants, that, depending on the reference, should be made with 5-23 individual plants. 

Here’s a few mixtures I’ve made this spring, along with a reference from the Oxford companion to Italian food. 

The mixture should include some bitter greens (typically assorted asters) but the most important plant is probably borage. 

Making your own version is a good excercise. Here they’re wilted with garlic and oil, but there’s a bunch of traditional recipes the mixture is used in. 

Can you believe this got cut from my book?!

#preboggion #preboggiun #foraging #traditionalfoods
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