There really is no substitute for fresh mushrooms in everyday cooking, but we can get pretty close. Of course they can always be pickled for long term storage, but there's another method, almost in between a pickle and a marinade: the almighty conserve. Think of it as the best pickled mushroom you've ever had.
I used to make 80 lb batches of these pickled mushrooms every week at my first restaurant. It was also sold commercially at Heartland Restaurant and Farm Direct Market in its heyday when we had a market full of preserves like pickles, sauerkraut and other ferments, all made in house.
Real quick for the sticklers: I've seen mushroom "conserva" and "conserve" both on the menus of various restaurants. They're generally going to be the same thing, conserva just being the Italian translation.
Don't kill the mushrooms with vinegar
The real magic about this is that it lacks the overkill acidity of most pickling liquids (as well as sugar, which I don't care for in mushroom pickles), but it's still safe enough to can in a water bath.
Kept under their liquid, the pickled mushrooms will stay for a very long time. Some recipes online will say they keep for about a month, let me tell you though, I have kept mushrooms stored like this in restaurants for over a year, having no loss in the quality of the product. Just make sure to keep the pickled mushrooms under their liquid.
PH and Canning Safety
I don't usually can this in restaurants, since there's walk in coolers, but for home use,you want something shelf stable. I did an experiment to test if this could be canned in 2015, I suspected it could, but I wanted to be 100% sure. Here's the skinny: general standards for pickling and canning say that you want to have a PH under 4.6 or lower for hermetically sealed foods.
Canning food in a pressure canner doesn't require a low PH as the temperature exceeds 242F, which is enough on it's own to ward off botulism. Foods canned in a water bath canner (like this can be) only reach 212F (the boiling point of water), and that isn't enough on it's own to prevent botulism, so lowering the PH with acid or vinegar is necessary.
To find a sweet spot PH level, I started with 2 cups of liquid and then started adding vinegar, stirring to incorporate, and then testing the PH at 1 and 2 minute intervals to make sure I got a steady reading.
The moral of the story is that mushroom conserve here, consistently came in at right around 3.6, which is way under what you need to be safe, and adding more vinegar eventually made PH level plateau at right around 3.2, which begs the question of why we would ever pickle something in 100% vinegar, which plenty of mushroom pickles call for.
Anything preserved in 100% vinegar is far too strong for me. The lower amount of vinegar in conserve recipes gives you an advantage in that the mushrooms retain more of their flavor, making them more versatile.
The End-All Mushroom Pickle for most species
I guarantee you, once you try this recipe, you may never want to simply pickle mushrooms again. I used hedgehog and chanterelle mushroom in the pictures here because they're probably my favorite for conserve but you could use a lot of different mushroom species, epecially if they're in the button stage.
If it's a mushroom you can pick, it can probably be conserved, and wild mushroom blends are good too. One thing to know though, is that aborted entolomas and any species of puffball I like to caramelize until lightly golden in oil before the vinegar and liquid is added, otherwise they just don't taste as good, a bit like some cousin of crumpled tofu.
There's a couple things that are good to know about preserving mushrooms this way, and I would give the same advice for pickles. Here are some tricks I've learned after using this recipe for years. At one restaurant, I used to make this in 80lb batches, weekly-- I might know a thing or two about it.
- Only use young mushrooms for conserve and pickles, small tight buttons will yield the highest quality product. Larger, more mature mushrooms are better dried.
- Don't go crazy with the flavoring ingredients. Adding a whole bunch of herbs, garlic and spices will make your mushroom conserve (or pickles for that matter) taste like medicine. Start with my tested proportions and get creative later.
How I Use It
This is how a lot of chefs preserve mushrooms en-masse, and, although they have a little acid to them, and they're in a container of liquid, it definitely doesn't mean that they're to be relegated to a bloody mary skewer or part of a pickle plate. Oh hayll no.
Like I mentioned, wet preservation like this is probably the best way to keep the texture of fresh mushrooms, salting comes in a close second, but then they need to be rinsed and soaked before hand. With mushroom conserve, all you do is pull them out of the jar and warm them up if you want. Easy money.
Pro Tip: Serve them Warm
Most of the time, I like to warm these up and add them to a dish, as a garnish to finish a plate, or as part of a warm salad, or appetizer. They can even be an appetizer in themselves.
Baked in a dish with a little liquid and topped with a slice of brie and melted under the broiler in an oven, they're ridiculously good spooned on toast, with a green salad on the side to cut the richness. I'm sure you can figure out plenty of things to do with them, if you don't end up eating them out of the jar standing in front of the fridge.
Related Posts
Wild Mushroom Conserve
Equipment
- 1 wide mouth quart mason jar
Ingredients
- Scant 2 lbs small young mushroom buttons. 28-30 oz will fit a quart jar. Chanterelle buttons are my favorite here
- 3 cloves 7 grams garlic thinly sliced
- ½ cup flavorless oil for sauteeing grapeseed or canola
- 1 teaspoon 5 grams kosher salt a generous teaspoon
- ¾ cup water
- ½ cup apple cider or white wine vinegar
- 2 teaspoons fresh chopped thyme fresh only
- 1 dried bay leaf or use fresh
Instructions
- Read through the entire recipe before proceeding.
- Clean your mushrooms by swishing them quickly in cold water while you clean them to ensure they'll have liquid to give up when they hit the heat. Transfer the mushrooms to a tray lined with a few paper towels and allow them to rest and release some liquid. I like to do this overnight in the fridge to allow them to dry out a bit.
- In a wide pan with high sides, or a soup pot, gently heat the oil and the sliced garlic slowly on medium heat until the garlic begins to turn golden. Take your time here, as the more color you can put on the garlic, the better the finished product will taste. Do not burn the garlic.
- When the garlic is perfectly golden, add the mushrooms, salt and herbs, stir so the salt can help draw out the mushroom liquid, then cover the pan, cooking on medium heat, and allow the mushrooms to give up their juice and halt the cooking of the garlic. The mushrooms should give off a good amount of water.
- Once the mushrooms have wilted and their liquid has released, add the water and vinegar, then bring the mixture to a rolling boil.
- Finally, put the mushrooms in a quart jar, pack them down, then bring the liquid back to a boil, and pour the boiling liquid over the mushrooms. Wiggle a chopstick around in the jar to get out air pockets, adding extra pickling liquid as needed. From here the mushrooms can be stored in the fridge and will last for months as long as they're kept under their liquid.
- If you want to water bath can the mushrooms, leave ½ inch of headspace at the top. Depending on the size of your mushrooms, you may have a little pickle liquid and some mushrooms leftover.
- Press the mushrooms down to make sure they are completely covered with liquid--add a little oil to cover if they threaten to pop up, then screw on the lid, then process the jar(s) in a water bath like regular cucumber pickles: 10 minutes for pints, 15 minutes for quarts. Store opened jars in the fridge.
Michael Godin
First let me say that I've spent years trying to find ideas like you've put down here. Outstanding recipes.
I made a small batch of the conserva but made a mistake in the last step; I failed to bring the liquid back to boil before pouring it into the jar. Am I likely to poison myself or others as a result? I expect to use these within 5-6 weeks of bottling.
Alan Bergo
Thanks Michael, and no problem--you're all good! Just keep the conserve in the fridge. Boiling and pouring into the jar hot is only for long term storage outside of refrigeration. That being said, you could bring everything back up to a boil and pour it back in the jar, turn it upside down, and wait for it to seal, which would do the trick too, just don't tell anybody I told you 🙂 As long as the jar forms a seal you're golden for storing outside of the fridge. Once the seal is broken, you'll want to refrigerate them. The pH on this is solid, and I re-worked it this year to remove some user error that was giving people excess liquid, and likely a lower pH as a result.
Michael Godin
Many thanks!
Emma Pullman
Hey! You said only young chanterelles will work here. I have a lot of white chanterelles around here and they’re gigantic. And I don’t even think it’s that they’re old, they’re just massive. But folks say that chanterelles don’t dry well. Have you ever tried this with larger chanterelles/older mushrooms?
Alan Bergo
You can use mature ones, they just won't have the same texture.
Jan Jay
Love your site! I love Lobster mushooms can I use the Conserve with them?
Alan Bergo
Yes.
Rados Malidzan
Thank you sooo much for your efforts on sharing your knowledge and experience with us! Would you please be so kind to advise on applying your Wild Mushroom Conserve recipe on Macrolepiota Procera, Parasol mushroom? What is the best way to save them for later?
Best regards
Alan Bergo
Yes that's fine to use them here.
Mike
Hi you don’t say how much salt to add to the recipe any chance you can let me know
Ta
Alan Bergo
It's in the recipe, 1 teaspoon or 5 grams. You can get away with a little more if you like.
Olivia
Can I reduce the salt by 25% without affecting shelf stability? Thanks!
Alan Bergo
Yes of course. You can also cut the liquid with equal parts vinegar and water if you made a batch that's too strong for you.
Susan
Can't tell you how excited I am to have found this, as no one wants to commit to a non-pickly wild mushroom recipe. Foraging is still new to me, only 2 yrs, but we've been enjoying such a variety this spring and summer. Right now, we can't eat the puffballs quickly enough (so many!), and I see your comment about browning them lightly golden before adding them to the pan. Do you have any other ideas for preserving puffballs? We also came upon some parasols and horse mushrooms. Do you think it would be ok to mix them? I'm an experienced canner, but this will be a first for mushrooms. Thanks so much!
Sarah
Thanks so much for this recipe! I am not a huge fan of pickles but I wanted to add an additional way to preserve mushrooms to my repertoire. I would not use a quart at a time for my cooking so I am going to try this recipe but can it in half pint jars. I will update my comment and let you know if it works! I just found a few pounds of hedgehogs. ????
Alan Bergo
You can keep the opened jars in the fridge. Scale the recipe to whatever mason jar size you like.
Erica Coda
Wow! The liquid is so delicious and I had leftover so I simmered some zucchini in it and canned them. I am going to refrigerate those though because I wasn’t sure on storage. Any other ideas on how to use this liquid for canning other things like veggies? I’m going to be on the lookout for more hedgehogs, but with the taste of this brine I would make it again and use it for all kinds of things. Thank you for another wonderful recipe!
Alan Bergo
I can't speak to other vegetables, but if you keep the ratio of liquid to vinegar the same it would be fine. As mushroom water content can be highly variable, it's normal to have some leftover, much better than to not have enough.
Erica Coda
For sure! Thanks again.
Patrick Maun
Have you tried this method with Grifola frondosa? I usually just slice them up and freeze then vacuum pack but would love to try this method for some of them this season.
Alan Bergo
Yes, hundreds of pounds of them. Proceed with confidence.
Robert Malcolm Kay
Thanks for sharing your expertise, Chef!
Due to this stupid coronavirus, I am spending more time foraging my local woods here in Scotland, and they are bouncing with first class fungi, so I came here looking for advice and help: yours is superb.
Liz Neerland
How would this work with comb tooth?
Alan Bergo
Just fine. Wash/dunk them to make sure they have enough water to give off if they're dry.
Wes
Hi Alan, would you recommend this recipe for black trumpets? I have approx 5 pounds of them and I'd prefer not drying them if I can help it.
Thanks for the fantastic recipes! This is always my go to place after foraging.
Alan Bergo
Hi Wes, yes I would. You can probably fit more in a jar than what's described here, and you may need to increase the liquid/brine slightly using the same proportions to maintain the proper pH as this is built for chunky mushrooms after they're washed. That being sad, it would be great. I'd also point you to the black trumpet puree, and from there, spinning that into some tasty black trumpet butter which freezes well. I'm simmering some trumpets to make it as I type this. 🙂
Wes
Thanks for the quick reply! I just watched your video for cleaning them and saw you didn't soak them like some other videos I saw. The water turns a dark colour and has a great aroma so I'm worried about losing some of the flavor that way.
Billie
I tried this tonight with laetiporus cinncinatus, I only had a little garlic because it doesn't agree with me, so I used some onions as well. I used half white vinegar and half pinot grigio. It didn't seal within 10 minutes, so I water bath canned them. Hope I did everything right. Can't wait to try them. I'll be visiting your site frequently. Thanks so much.
Alan Bergo
Glad it worked for you.
Ann
If I do a water bath for quart jars, what would be the process time?
Alan Bergo
10-12 minutes should be fine. Pack the conserve into the jars hot.
Celeste
Thanks for this info! When you did your pH tests, was that the acidity of the liquid or the acidity of the mushrooms themselves? It seems to me that to make sure it's safe for canning, one would need to make sure the entire mushroom was held at that acidity level, not just that the pickling medium was at that acidity.
I'm going to try this with some smooth chanterelles and cinabars I just picked, but I think I'm still going to keep it in the fridge rather than can it.
Alan Bergo
The mushrooms are completely saturated with liquid. We used to sell this commercially at Heartland to the general public, and it is completely, utterly safe. I have another friend who is selling it commercially as I type this. At your house, you do what you want though. The vast amount of pickling recipes online for mushrooms assassinate the mushrooms with vinegar.
Olga Guerra
I agree! Most pickled things at grocery stores are too vinegary, not just mushrooms. I haven’t opened my jar yet, but tasted some leftover liquid and it was delicious.
Kate
Thanks for the recipe! This is my first time making a mushroom conserve after foraging pine mushrooms. I followed the recipe & I filled the mushrooms to a 1/4 inch from the top and added the juice to the top of the jar, Then I can boiled it for 15 mins. The seal is intact but it looks now that there is less juice in the jar & the mushrooms are protruding a bit above the juice (about 1/4 inch). Is it sealed properly even though this has happened? Will it keep a year despite this? Many thanks!
Alan Bergo
It's fine. The pH of the jar is so low you don't need to worry.
Kate Cheung
Thanks so much for your prompt reply! 🙂
Martin
Hi Alan,
Love your website. Can I ask if you store this mushroom preserve in jars sealed in a water bath do you have to refrigerate afterwards or can it be stored in the pantry?
Alan Bergo
It only needs to be refrigerated after it's open. Yes, you can absolutely store it in a pantry.
Tony g
Love your site. Most of my favorite mushroom recipes live here :).
Just made a b. Edulis conserva. To-die-for good!!!
Alan Bergo
Glad you like it, it's one of my favorites.
Carrie Maier
I do not have champagne vinegar. Alternative based on flavour or Acetic Acid percentage should I look for?
Alan Bergo
Use white wine or cider vinegar.
Carrie Maier
Thank you. I will try and find champagne vinegar. What about this choice do you use it in many recipes?
Alan Bergo
I prefer champagne vinegar only slightly to white wine, but I buy mine from a wholesale purveyor, it's from https://www.beaufortoliveoil.com/specialty-vinegars
You can substitute any good tasting, light colored vinegar. Apple cider and white wine are fine. You will love the mushroom conserve, probably the most used recipe on the whole site.
Carrie Maier
Thank you for differentiating choices in the vinegar. Some can be very different in acid content or by flavours imparted. Example balsamic vs cider vinegar.. Even many different aging if balsamic can be found the alter complexities. When choosing vinegar in culinary uses I hope to find a defined one listed (not necessarily a brand) that has an impact on end result of the preparation when served. Would you comment on this.
Alan Bergo
I feel the same way, it's very important to know the vinegar you're using. For example, red fruit pairs the best with red wine vinegar, and apples should be paired with apple cider vinegar, generally speaking.
Rena
How long do you have to wait to eat them?
Alan Bergo
You can eat them right away if you like, at least allow them to cool.
Da
Are lobster mushrooms suitable for pickling?
Alan Bergo
Yes.
Maddy
Congratulations on your article in
The Minnesota Conservation Magazine.
Alan Bergo
Thanks Maddy. Between you and me, it was interesting. Editors want you to write so descriptive sometimes it can feel like a dessert with too much sugar IMO. They approached me with an article idea and I was happy to tackle the project though, and next time, when I pitch an idea, I think it will feel a little more natural. It took a lot of time and back and forth for that little blurb, not to mention images!
Olga Guerra
How long does it take to develop full flavor? How long should I wait to open it? Made it last night and can’t wait to try! Thank you.
Alan Bergo
Olga, if you have multiple jars go ahead and open one. I like to let them sit for a week or so at least, but we would sometimes have to use them immediately after cooking for service at my restaurants if the cooks were pressed for time. Let me know how you like it, and remember you can change the flavors up however you like.
Rob
This sounds delicious, and I would like to try it. But it sounds like you are saying that you don't actually need to do the whole canning bath thing if you want to can these. Is that right? You can just pour hot liquid in then seal by flipping upside down?
Lisa
Hi. I had the same question. I also wanted to know if its OK to reuse jam jar (one piece) lids rather than the traditional two piece canning lids.
Alan Bergo
I don't recommend that.
Jeff
Quick question. After browning the garlic in oil. Do you drain the oil or leave it and pour the mushrooms directly into it to sweat them out. Thanks.
Alan Bergo
You put the mushrooms directly in there.