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Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

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Foraged Pine Pollen and Honey Truffles

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Traditional Chinese Pine Pollen Candy

Pollen truffles, in the traditional Chinese form of a cone made between 3 fingers.

I have for you today what I think is one of the most fascinating pine pollen recipes ever: what I’ve been calling Pine Pollen Fudge or Pine Pollen Truffles. I started working on the recipe last year, but had a couple accidents with my pollen (D’oh!) and, if you’ve ever gathered the stuff, you know that it’s extremely labor intensive, and if you run out, even the most granola of coops won’t be able to help you out.

Pine pollen candy

Pollen fudge made with pine cone syrup will have a slightly darker hue.

For the record, some places sell “pine pollen” online (mostly from China) but every sample I’ve tasted seems impure, and tastes bitterly of pine needles. Bee pollen is similar, but more wet, and needs to be dehydrated before using like this, and doesn’t taste as good. 

Male red pine cones flowers

Pine flowers on the verge of ripening. In a few days they’ll be ready.

In the wild food world when pollen comes up, most people will be familiar with cattail pollen. I like cattail pollen, but pine pollen is probably more accessible to most people, and doesn’t require waders. All pollens are hard to nail down though. With pine pollen you have an extremely small window of harvesting potential to begin with, but you also have the rains of May and gusts of wind to contend with, which makes it one of the most elusive and tricky things I’ve ever harvested. 

male cones or pine flowers filled with pollen

A male pine flower loaded with pollen. If your trees don’t look like this, you’re too late. 

I’m getting better though, and this year I smashed my harvesting record. Previously the largest amount of pollen I’d ended up with after an afternoon of harvesting was about 2 cups. This year I got 9 cups, or just over half a gallon, a nice increase of about 450%. Paying attention to the wind, specifically, how I could outsmart the wind by finding trees in areas with windbreaks was the key. Props to my Grandpa who has a little grove of secluded red pines he planted years ago. 

Pine pollen

A solid half gallon of pine pollen. Freezing prevents it from going rancid and is the best way I’ve found to keep the flavor. 

A historical confection from Iraq and China 

Back to the fudge. The basic idea had been kicking around in my mind for a few years, ever since I read about a traditional “sweetmeat” (candy) made in both China and Iraq using pollen harvested from cattails.

I can’t seem to find the traditional name for the confection in either culture (if you know of either of them, please chime in) but I do know that, way back when, the traditional sweetener of the Iranian version was probably date syrup, and I would assume Honey was/is used in China, but I can’t be certain. Whatever it’s called, the idea of a raw confection made from pollen captivated me, and I had to make some. 

Update: someone from China reached out and informed me that the Chinese version my be made with pine or cattail pollen, and is known as Songhuang Bing 松黃餅. 

Pollen candy recipe

When warm, the finished product will be malleable like edible Play-Doh. A toddlers dream come true. This version is more orange as I used dark pine syrup as the sweetener. 

The flavor of pollen is fascinating. Go up to a pine tree or a cattail ripe with pollen, give it a good shake and taste some of the silky powder that comes off on your fingers (as well as your eyes, ears, nose, face, pants, and everything else) and you may think it a tasteless, precious novelty-I did at first. 

The historical accounts and traditions made me give pollen another shot though, and I’m glad I did. One account I read described pollen as having a “biscuity” quality to it, and that’s a pretty good description, but one that won’t make sense until you eat it in some sort of concentrated form, as eating just a fingertip full will taste like flavorless yellow dust. 

Pine pollen fudge recipe
Rolling the finished balls in Spruce tips is a nice study in conifers.
Pollen candy recipe rolled in spruce tips
The finished product eats like a silky, floral truffle.

I hit pay dirt when I started attempting another Iraqi candy made with pollen: a sort of concentrated block of the stuff made by steaming the pollen with sugar.

One taste of my first (failed) attempt still revealed a completely new flavor for me, which I can say is a pretty rare thing. It’s a sort of delicately nutty, yeasty, and pleasant taste, lightly floral, and, as you might expect, begging to be paired with honey, which is what I’ve done here. 

Pollen candy recipe
A finished block of pollen fudge.
Pollen candy recipe
You can cut the candy into small squares, or form into whatever shape you like.

Adjusting the texture 

I suspect the original confections are nothing more than a sweetener mixed with pollen and packed into molds. I find overly sweet confections a little cloying though, so I tried a few ways to curb the sugar.

I knew I wanted to be able to form the pollen candy into a sort of edible something I could roll or form and serve raw, so I kneaded some soft butter into it, added a pinch of salt and honey, and, voila: pollen fudge. 

Pine pollen candy recipe

Forming the “fudge” into small squares makes for a nice presentation.

 

The texture is soft, the flavor floral and delicately sweet, and the pollen finishes by melting on your tongue. If you have the chance to get some pollen this year (cattail pollen will be ready later in the season and is fine if the time for pine pollen has passed where you are) I really recommend you try some. 

Pine pollen fudge recipe

Traditional pine pollen chinese candy
Print Recipe
5 from 10 votes

Foraged Pine Pollen and Honey Truffles

Candy made from pine or cattail pollen, honey, butter, and a pinch of salt. Serves 6-8 people a small taste.
Prep Time5 mins
Course: Dessert
Cuisine: American, Chinese, Iraqi
Keyword: Cattail Pollen, Pine Pollen
Servings: 8

Ingredients

  • 5 tablespoons pollen* previously frozen
  • 2 teaspoons unsalted butter or coconut oil for a vegan version
  • 1 Tablespoon mild honey
  • Pinch kosher salt

Instructions

  • Combine all the ingredients in a bowl, working with a fork until the butter is mixed in. It may look crumbly.

Getting the right texture

  • Pinch a fingerful together and see if you can form it.
  • If it's still crumbly after a minute of mixing/kneading, add a tiny drizzle of honey. If it seems too soft, add some more pollen.
  • Chill the “fudge” to make it stiffen if it gets too soft on you. I like to form them, then chill to hold their shape. Just imagine you’re working with PlayDoh
  • To make the traditional cone shape, grasp a small piece of the mixture and roll it around clockwise between your thumb and forefinger, supporting the bottom or each cone with the pointer finger of your other hand.
  • Shape the fudge into cones, orbs, squares and put them in a shallow container with firm sides where they can stand up. If I makes square or orb shapes I layer them in a container with pieces of parchment. Kept in the fridge they'll last for at least a week, and can also be frozen.

Serving

  • You can dust the truffles with powdered dried pine needles, chopped fresh spruce tips, or more pollen (like chocolate truffles). Passed around on a nice, small plate, they make a great conversation piece after a meal.

Video

Notes

*People sensitive to bee pollen, or any type of pollen should probably pass on enjoying this. 

 

More

Foraging and Cooking with Pine Pollen

Special thanks to Joan Yang for this one. 

Related

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Next Post: Sochan with Potatoes and Venison Bacon (Bottom Greens) »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Harry

    May 29, 2021 at 8:22 am

    From what I know about pine pollen you may want to include a disclaimer about “certain things” lasting longer than 4 hours. 😀

    Seriously though, I’ve been curious if the medicinal properties of pollen survive the cooking process.?

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      May 29, 2021 at 8:33 am

      I freeze the pollen as a sterilization method. I don’t really care about the medicinal qualities, but I know some do. Since this isn’t cooked I would think it could keep some of the raw benefits, but I can’t speak to any. The flavor alone is what I’m after, and it is a great one.

      Reply
      • James

        June 2, 2021 at 3:07 am

        5 stars
        Just curious how freezing would sterilise it? Bacteria don’t die when frozen but go dormant, right? Or do you mean as a preservation method?

        Reply
        • Alan Bergo

          June 2, 2021 at 6:09 am

          I’m well aware that freezing won’t kill microbes. What it will absolutely kill, is insects, and depending on where and when you harvest, and if you’re too lazy to sift it twice, or have a sifter that is more porous, it can have a similar effect. That being said I should have probably just said “freeze the stuff” as it’s also the best way to keep it fresh.

          Reply
  2. Hope

    May 29, 2021 at 8:24 am

    Hi Alan…
    This recipe is very intriguing to me and I hope I can give it a try this summer. We don’t have any pine trees (or cattails for that matter) on our property but…the local state park does!! : )

    I found an article that is about the Iraqi pollen candy. It’s called KHIRRET (pronounced “khar-ee-at”).
    The article also references a book by Nawal Nasrallah called “Delights from the Garden of Eden: A Cookbook and History of the Iraqi Cuisine”.

    Here is the website link to the article, if you are interested: http://www.atlasobscura.com/foods/khirret-iraqi-marsh-pollem-candy

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      May 29, 2021 at 8:32 am

      Thanks, yes the Khirret is the one I was steaming, it’s more of a crumbly candy. This confection is raw. I think I’m just going to have to order the book.

      Reply
    • Corla

      May 29, 2021 at 10:11 am

      There appears to be a typo in that link, pollen is spelled wrong. Here is the correct link:
      https://www.atlasobscura.com/foods/khirret-iraqi-marsh-pollen-candy

      Reply
  3. leigh

    May 29, 2021 at 8:43 am

    5 stars
    What was the brown fluffy stuff in the bag in which you gathered the pollen, and why?

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      May 29, 2021 at 9:06 am

      By “brown fluffy stuff” I assume you’re referring to the male cones/flowers. Some of them will fall off as you agitate them in the bag to harvest the pollen. They’re composted.

      Reply
  4. Martha Justina Elliott

    May 29, 2021 at 10:15 am

    5 stars
    Thank you for the unique recipe and video. Did you use raw honey or past. honey for the Pollen fudge recipe?

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      May 29, 2021 at 10:25 am

      I use either, and I actually used a raw honey a company called Mohawk Trading co. Sent me for the vid. Obv there are some things to consider with raw honey so if I served it to others I would use pasteurized.

      Reply
  5. TheEffinChef

    May 29, 2021 at 1:19 pm

    5 stars
    Can this recipe be used with using ground bee pollen?

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      May 30, 2021 at 10:38 am

      I mentioned this in the post. The flavor of bee pollen is inferior and not as pleasant. It’s also higher in water content to it needs to be dried beforehand. The color will be more orange.

      Reply
  6. Wen

    May 29, 2021 at 6:07 pm

    5 stars
    Can’t wait to try this! Thank you. Will you tell me more about the, “dark pine syrup”?

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      May 30, 2021 at 10:36 am

      Wen, see this link. Pine Cone Syrup

      Reply
  7. Carla Beaudet

    May 29, 2021 at 7:51 pm

    Fascinating! Sadly the season for pine flowers has come and gone this year. Would white pine work ok? I am familiar with the pine “tassels”, but I don’t think I’ve ever observed the “flowers”. Going to have to study the botany a little to figure out what to look for and when. Meanwhile, I might try the recipe using bee pollen. I could put it through the spice grinder to turn it into a fine powder?

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      May 30, 2021 at 10:39 am

      Carla, you can get a similar result but you need to dry bee pollen first until it’s brittle. The flavor of commercial bee pollen is inferior, not nearly as good with a slightly strong aftertaste.

      Reply
  8. Lis Ballou

    May 30, 2021 at 6:14 pm

    So cool & freaky! Definitely my kind of thing.
    I feel like this rare confection is right out of the fantasy realm. Something Titania & Oberon fed each other after a tiring day of woodland mischief making.
    An absolute delight to plan for next year. This spring I did get some pine pollen in between the Pacific Northwest-like spring rains we’ve had here in KS, but alas not enough for this recipe, but I’ll add it to my WIP Forager’s Excursion Planner so I don’t miss the window & forget I want to do this next year.
    Thanks Alan
    #planyourworkyourplan

    Reply
  9. JINNY B JANESIK

    May 31, 2021 at 12:12 pm

    5 stars
    How do you harvest the pollen? Scrape it off, cut the flower, how?

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      May 31, 2021 at 12:24 pm

      Jinny, I spent half a week filming a video that describes the process. Look at the recipe and watch it and it will make sense.

      Reply
  10. Megan

    June 30, 2021 at 9:07 pm

    5 stars
    I only recently stumbled across your blog (after searching for a recipe for lamb tongue!), and am so jazzed to find you! You comprise many of my favorite food inspirations: foraging/local, creative and beautiful, and spanning lots of cultural traditions. This recipe made me really excited. I had been wanting to try cattail pollen already, but your post and my desire to try this recipe really upped the ante. SO I was keeping my eye out for the right moment, and was able to collect about a cup of pollen last week. Hurray! I love this recipe. It really highlights the pollen. I also love the video you linked to the woman making the Pine Tree Flower Cake – so many ideas!! Thanks for this, and for your blog.

    Reply
  11. Jacqui

    December 31, 2021 at 3:40 pm

    Old World Cedars (Cedrus) shed their pollen in the fall and this November I noticed the yellow cones on my walk to work, so i collected about 250 grams of pollen from the low branches of 2 trees (arriving at work with a distinct yellow tinge for several days) and just made a batch of this fudge, sweetened with date syrup, as a Christmas treat from my precious hoard of frozen yellow gold. It is very interesting. The “biscuity” texture is bang-on. It sort of grits gently on the palate. However, cedar pollen is distinctly bitter, which, apparently is not the case for pine or cattail pollen?. The people who tried it found it had a taste reminiscent of coffee – i.e., that kind of bitterness. In fact the fudge is sort of like a solid version of Greek coffee – silky gritty, sweet and bitter.
    I hope to catch the pine season properly next spring so I can compare.

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      December 31, 2021 at 4:42 pm

      Thanks Jacqui. It’s nice to have another account here of different species. There is not a hint of bitterness in any of the P. resinosum pollen I’ve eaten.

      Reply
  12. Jeni

    February 1, 2022 at 7:13 pm

    How do I get my hands on cattail pollen for khirret recipe since I can’t seem to find anyone to send or sell me any of the precious candy I loved as a child

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      February 3, 2022 at 12:17 pm

      You’ll need to harvest your own. If you have a traditional recipe for Khirret, please send it to me, I’ve been looking for one and pollen is expensive to experiment with blind. alanbergo3 AT gmail.com

      Reply

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Alan Bergo
Baby’s first homegrown mushrooms! Backyard wine Baby’s first homegrown mushrooms! Backyard wine caps on hardwood sawdust from my lumberjack buddy.

Next up blewits. Spawn from @northsporemushrooms

#winecaps #strophariaaeruginosa #allthemushroomtags
It’s wild cherry season. I’ll be picking from It’s wild cherry season. I’ll be picking from my favorite spot tomorrow a.m. and have room for a couple helpers. It’s at an event on a farm just south of St. Cloud. 

If you’re interested send me a message and I’ll raffle off the spots. Plenty of cherries to go around. I’ll be leading a short plant walk around the farm too. 

#chokecherries #foraging #prunusvirginiana #summervibes
Special thanks to the beach in Ashland for hooking Special thanks to the beach in Ashland for hooking it up with on-site garnishes. Beach pea flowers taste strong and leguminous, similar to vetch, or like a rich tasting pea shoot. 

#lathyrusjaponicus #beachpeas #peaflower #foraging #northshore #bts
Great, long day of filming in near the south shore Great, long day of filming in near the south shore of Lake Superior yesterday. 

Blueberries were sparse, and some kind of blight seems to be affecting the serviceberries. Chanterelles weren’t as good as 2020, but they were there. 

Quick dip in the Lake Superior after we broke set was a bonus. 

W/ @barebonesliving  @misterberndt @jesseroesler

#barebonesliving #foraging #lakesuperiorrocks #serviceberries #chanterelles #bts
Green ramp seed make a great lactoferment. Just pu Green ramp seed make a great lactoferment. Just put the green seeds in brine in a jar, leave for 2 weeks. 

After they’re sour they can be water bath processed, although I’ve stored them at room temp without an issue too. 

Finished product is great minced or puréed into places where you’d like garlic, capers, or both. 

Makes a great tzatziki with a little crumbled, dried bee balm. 

#tzatziki #ramps #rampseeds #foraging #fermentation
If you move quick you might still be able to get s If you move quick you might still be able to get some unripe, green ramp seeds. I saw a bunch yesterday near Lake Superior. 

At the right stage, they’re tender and the seed hasn’t started to form. 

They have the same potent garlicky flavor as the leaves and bulbs of the plant. 

I only harvest seeds from places where I haven’t harvest harvested bulbs and leaves the same year. 

#ramps #foraging #alliumtricoccum #seedhead
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