Classic linguine alle Vongole with the first mushroom buttons of the year is a great chanterelle recipe. The subtle brine and the ocean and little pops of floral chanterelle goodness will make you loosen your belt and peek through your hands: it's about to get really buttery and delicious up in here.
Linguine with clam sauce can be a cheesy cop-out at sub-par Italian joints. Cliches aside, it is really, really good made well. (Great for date night) I learned to make a killer one when I was sous chef of the old Il Vesco Vino in St. Paul with Chef Andy Lilja: my chef, now an old friend and mentor.
Along with crab ravioli, white clam linguine was one of the top sellers at the restaurant, and, coming from saute meant it was on my station. When you multiply say 5-20 orders a day, x 5 days x 52 weeks in a year, x the two years I was there, that's a range of anywhere from 2,600-10,400 bowls of clam pasta I made. So, you could say I know a thing or two about making a solid linguine con le vongole.
Cooking Chanterelle Buttons Whole
This is a drum I beat every year. Some people say: "Meh, chanterelles are just ok, they don't taste like a lot", etc, etc. To be clear: chanterelles are not just ok, they're one of the best, easily identifiable wild mushrooms you can harvest in quantity, and someone that says anything else probably means they just like being contrarian, or have never eaten chanterelles cooked whole like we're doing here.
But, if you chop those perfect chants all up into slices, and cook them with a bunch of stuff, you might as well throw them in the garbage, skip eating the mushrooms altogether.
Other mushrooms to use
The first young chanty buttons are only one of plenty of mushrooms that would be great here, but I like to use mushrooms from the Cantharellaceae. Yellow foot chanterelles, black trumpet mushrooms, red chanterelles, hedgehog mushrooms, fairy rings, or diced chicken of the woods would be good too.
Plating
One of the most important parts of serving pasta is plating. The method for plating the dish as you'd get it in a restaurant is illustrated below.
Linguine with White Clam Sauce and Chanterelle Mushrooms
Equipment
- 1 3 quart pasta pot
- 1 large skillet
Ingredients
- 4 ounces dried linguine preferably a nice Italian bronze extruded variety like Rustichella or Masciarelli, but in a pinch, use whatever
- 1 lb manila clams
- 4 ounces fresh chanterelle buttons left whole, washed if needed, trimmed and cleaned
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter for the sauce
- 3 tablespoons shallot diced ¼ inch
- 2 tablespoon olive oil or cooking oil
- 2 teaspoons minced garlic
- Fresh sliced chives to taste
- ¼ cup dry white wine
- ½ cup canned clam juice
- Dash of fresh lemon juice to taste
- 1 small handful chopped Italian parsley
Instructions
- Rinse the clams and inspect them: look over each clam and make sure it's alive, they should be closed, but will occasionally very slowly open and close to respire. Bring a a gallon of lightly salted water to a rolling boil. Add the linguine to the pot and stir to prevent sticking. Meanwhile, heat a 10-12 inch saute pan with the oil, add the shallot and garlic and cook for 2 minutes or until translucent, stirring occasionally.
- Add the clams and chanterelles and stir to coat with the oil, shallots and garlic, turn up the heat to medium-high and cook 4-5 minutes more, deglaze the pan with the wine, reduce by half, then add the clam stock and continue to reduce on medium-high. Drain the pasta, then add directly to the pan along with the butter. Stir the noodles to coat with the sauce, tossing occasionally.
- Reduce the sauce until the butter has thickened it and it tastes really good, The sauce should be velvety and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Finally at the end, add a dash of lemon to taste and the parsley.
- To plate, remove the pasta to preheated bowls with a tongs, reserving the clams, mushrooms and sauce in the pan. Twist the linguine into a tight mound, then arrange the clams on top of each pasta, drizzle over excess sauce, garnish with the chives and serve immediately (discard any clams that don't open).
Plating
- Plating pasta is one of the most important parts of enjoying this (and all long pasta). First the pasta is removed with tongs and twirled in the bowl into a mound, only afterwords are the ingredients and sauce distributed. Long pasta should always be plated like this.
Rodger HAmilton
Just returned from a foray and saw your post! The slugs were pretty bad, but still got a good harvest. I'm conflicted between chanterelle alfredo w/ pasta or candying the little buttons in a simple syrup then made into chanterelle caramel and served over the best vanilla ice cream I can find...
Alan Bergo
Rodger, I've been meaning to candy some young buttons, would be a great experiment. Good luck with the slugs.
William Hunter Duncan
That sounds fabulous! Any chance you want to tell us your favorite chanterelle spots? I would settle for a short tutorial on the general rules of hunting them in the Midwest. I have found a great many along the Oregon and California coasts, but few here (though I have not hunted them with as much effort).
This dish reminds me of the Oregon coast, one of my favorite places in the world. I think one of David Arora's books mentions, for larger chanterelles, if you have to slice them, flash fry at high heat?
Alan Bergo
Hunter, I'd have to look at the books. The larger chants can be great but C. californicus is waaaay better than C. formosus.
Deborah???????? Porter
Chef Alan, I love this recipe, and the background that goes with. Thank you for sharing the “how-to” for serving!
pete hautman
This is almost exactly what I do with the first chants, right down to the chive garnish—except your plating is much more stylish than mine. Need to up my game there. Here's hoping for a great chanterelle season. My local spots aren't producing much yet, but this coming week I'm gonna hit it hard.
Alan Bergo
Yeah the little buttons are so good. I'm really hoping our season kicks into gear soon, they're late this year. Last year we were picking in the middle of JUNE! For crying out loud!
Mary Ann Costantino
Need to find some sites in the Northeast. Rhode Island. Older mushroom sites have been either developed or picked out
Alan Bergo
I'm so sorry to hear that. Maybe try looking at your local mycological society, and state parks, SNAs and WMAs. Good luck.
Jennifer Costantino
So good, this is now one of my favorite chanterelle dishes! It’s also great with fresh dungeness crab if you don’t have clams.
Alan Bergo
I'm glad you liked it. I'm also really glad you mentioned this in the off season here since I forget other people have access to chanterelles in the winter since It's been so long since I've ordered them. I'll have to make a mention of using crab as a sub--great idea!
Jess
One of my favorite ways to have chanterelle buttons!! Thanks for the plating tips Chef.