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Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

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Honey Truffles

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Hungarian Honey truffles or Mattirolomyces terfezioidesI love working with truffles, so when a truffle hunter from Hungary and his friend asked me if I’d contribute to a new book on truffles they were writing by sampling Honey truffles (Mattirolomyces terfezioides) fresh from the earth, shipped direct from Hungary, I agreed (and squealed with joy). Shipping mushrooms across the pond is no small feat, and it took two tries to get them to me in good shape. With the help of DHL Express, they were able to get me a good half pound of honey truffles in just 3 days. 

I’ve eaten lots of truffles, but never these. Honey truffles are what I call an alternative truffle (a truffle that can be purchased for less than traditional European species), truffles like Tuber brumale, which I love for it’s smoky truffle taste, are another good one. Tuber macrosporum (black garlic truffle) is another I’ve been dying to try.

Squash with Truffled Maple Syrup, Honey Truffles and Butternuts

Heirloom acorn squash with butternuts chevre butter and truffled maple syrup was another winner.

Desert Truffles: The Terfeziaceae

As an aside, there’s a little breadcrumb trail in the epithet of the Honey Truffle, specifically the word “terfez”.The Terfeziaceae I know as desert truffles, a group of truffles native to the Middle East, North Africa, and surrounding area. They’re more common than truffles from the genus Tuber, and don’t command as high a price. Honey truffles were formerly in the Terfeziaceae, but have been moved into the genus Mattirolomyces.

They’re apparently harvested in commercial quantity in Hungary, but not too many other places, and there’s no tangible tradition of eating them in Hungary. It seems to me, just like the Matsutake that are graciouly creeping into Minnesotas pine plantations, the honey truffles are setting up shop. For comparison, Tuber brumale is known as an invasive truffle, and can outcompete more valuable species, so It’s generally not liked by hunters. I can’t speak to that regarding honey truffles. 

Honey Truffles Mattirolomyces terfezioides

Taste and Aroma 

Here’s the interesting part. I knew a little of what to expect by contacting some truffle importers I know—honey truffles are going to taste sweet. Not a sweet scent, like you would expect with a truffle, but a literal sweetness. One of my importer friends told me they would taste like saccharin, and they were dead on. 

Hungarian Honey truffles or Mattirolomyces terfezioides

Just some beautiful truffles.

The aroma is truffle-y, but it’s much more than that, and very complex, for better or worse. The first thing I noticed was a bready, yeasty quality I’d describe like an over-proofed batch of rolls. Then, there’s an earthy mushroom taste, not exactly truffle-y, distinctly mushroomy. Finally, there’s a truffle taste that you’d expect from a truffle, but it’s combined, and a bit obscured with all of the other gastro-stimuli. They’re strange creatures, really strange. 

I’m an emphatic mycophagist, and go out of my way to find wild mushrooms off the beaten path I think are worthy of sharing with others, but, I have to tell you, honey truffles will not be for everyone. The combination of literal saccharin sweetness with fungal flavor, in addition to the truffle aroma was odd enough that it gave me pause considering the amount of work it was going to take to wrangle half a pound these.

As I expected, honey truffles were a lot more difficult to work with than black or white truffles, which are easy in comparison—with those, you just shave and go. I would say about half the people I fed the honey truffles to didn’t care for them, something that I’ve never had happen with any truffles from the genus Tuber. So, just like with the Amanita amerirubescens I shared a few weeks ago I think the following bears repeating: 

Just because an ingredient is new, doesn’t mean it’s incredible. 

French toast with truffled maple syrup and honey truffle recipe

French toast with honey truffle was probably my favorite, but even this took a few tries.

Cooking 

Cooking is a bit of a misnomer here. Honey truffles, like white truffles, are heat shy, meaning that they don’t like to be heated. You can shave them on a warm dish, sure, but you won’t be simmering them in anything, and even infusing them in something warm probably won’t work. They’re best used, and infused cold. Putting honey truffles with rice, say, as you would black truffles to absorb some of their scent, would be pointless, as after cooking it will disappear. To use them with, say, a risotto of peas or squash (which would be nice) you would shave them on raw, or put a pat of truffle butter raw on the finished product. 

Fresh fruit with honey truffle custard sauce

Fresh fruit with honey truffle creme fraiche custard.

Capturing the aroma 

Honey truffles are a white truffle, and like white (and black) truffles the key for me is in thinking not how I can cook with them, or what I can shave them on, but how to capture their aroma into something. Think of truffles like small orbs that constantly give off gaseous aroma, and your job, is to capture that into another medium to store it. For example, one of the dishes I made with the honey truffles is a simple creme fraiche sauce with fresh fruit. I ferment some creme fraiche, add eggs whisked with sugar over a double boiler, cool it all, then grate in a bit of truffle and keep it in the fridge. As the sauce rests in the fridge, it absorbs the truffle aroma, ah voila, truffle sauce. 

honey truffled maple syrup

Honey truffle maple syrup was probably my favorite way to capture the aroma, I used it in two different dishes.

Another win was maple syrup. Confusingly, the scent of honey truffle didn’t like to be captured into oil, which I was hoping would be a way to get past the saccharin kiss of the fresh product. Grated or simply infusing a few slices into sugar syrup though, was great, and the aroma stays strong and vibrant in the syrup under refrigeration. After the infusion, I discard the truffle or strain it out—something I would never do with black or white truffle. Unlike black truffles, which are dry, honey truffles will get soft and squishy after they’re exposed to something like wine or 

Mixing grated honey truffle into butter to make truffle butter was ok too, but the heat shyness came into play again, and it can’t be used in cooking. Honey truffle butter must be spread on something warm to melt it, and exposed to the least amount of heat possible in order for the flavor to be noticeable. 

Use Ideas 

  • Truffled maple syrup (or another sugar syrup) will be the most economical way to stretch their flavor. 
  • Infuse honey truffles into dry white wine as for Maebowle. 
  • Grate fresh honey truffles into butter (recipe below) and spread on roasted squash or grilled bread. 
  • Croustades or crostini with honey truffle grated or in butter form with pears and blue cheese. 
  • Pair with cheesy, salty things, like chevre or gorgonzola. 
  • Risotto of peas or squash, preferably with the main ingredient pureed and folded in. 

Recipes 

French toast with truffled maple syrup and honey truffle recipe
Print Recipe
5 from 1 vote

Honey Truffle French Toast

French toast with fresh fruit, truffled maple syrup and shaved honey truffle.
Prep Time30 mins
Cook Time15 mins
Course: Breakfast, Brunch
Cuisine: American
Keyword: Honey Truffle, Truffles
Servings: 4

Ingredients

  • 4 thick slices brioche left out to stale

Custard

  • 1 cup half and half
  • 30 grams maple syrup
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
  • ½ teaspoon vanilla
  • Fresh peaches and other fruit like figs and or peaches

Truffled Syrup*

  • 1 cup maple syrup
  • 5-10 grams honey truffle (1/2-1 small truffle, to taste) grated or finely chopped plus 5-10 grams more for shaving to finish

Instructions

  • The night before, prepare the syrup and soak the bread.
  • For the syrup, mix the truffle and maple syrup and allow to macerate in the refrigerator.
  • For the custard, beat the custard ingredients together, then put in a container that will fit the bread snugly, add the bread and allow to soak overnight, turning gently if needed to saturate them.
  • The next day, carefully remove the bread, cook each slice on a greased griddle or nonstick pan on each side until lightly browned, then serve with whipped cream, fresh fruit like ripe peaches, and a drizzle of the honey truffle syrup and extra shaved honey truffles.

Notes

*I preferred to strain out the honey truffle pieces from the syrup to keep a clean look, but you don’t necessarily have to.
Fresh fruit with honey truffle custard sauce
Print Recipe
5 from 1 vote

Fruit with Honey Truffle Crème Fraiche Custard

Fresh fruit with honey truffle custard sauce. Black truffles can be substituted.
Prep Time25 mins
Cook Time20 mins
Infusing time3 hrs
Course: Dessert
Cuisine: American
Keyword: Honey Truffle, Truffles
Servings: 4

Ingredients

  • 1 lb Mixed ripe fruit such as pears, peaches and figs, highest quality

Honey Truffle Custard Sauce (makes more than you will need)

  • 8 oz cream
  • ¼ oz thick yogurt
  • 3 large egg yolks
  • 2 oz honey
  • 10 grams grams honey truffle (1small truffle) plus more for shaving
  • Tiny pinch of salt

Instructions

Honey Truffle Custard Sauce

  • Mix the yogurt and cream and allow to sit out overnight, covered with a cloth. The next day, mix the cream with a spoon, then chill completely and beat to soft peaks.
  • In a small metal bowl, beat the egg yolks, salt and honey until doubled in volume over a small pot of simmering water, then keep whisking off the heat for a bit until room cooled slightly, about 5 minutes.
  • Cool the egg yolks to room temperature, then mix with the beaten cream, grate the truffle into the mixture and combine, then chill until needed, at least a few hours to allow the mixture time to infuse.

Serving

  • To serve, cut the fruit into attractive slices and shapes. Spoon 2 oz of the custard sauce into a small dish, and garnish with 2-3 oz of fruit and extra shaved truffles.
  • You can also put the cut fruit into a custard dish and drizzle the custard over the top.
Squash with Truffled Maple Syrup, Honey Truffles and Butternuts
Print Recipe
5 from 1 vote

Heirloom Acorn Squash with Truffled Maple Syrup and Chevre Butter

A shareable dish, assume half an acorn squash for two people. Thin sliced smoked ham like speck makes a good addition too. Serves 4
Prep Time30 mins
Cook Time25 mins
Course: Appetizer, Side Dish
Cuisine: American
Keyword: Butternuts, Truffles
Servings: 4

Ingredients

  • 2 small acorn squash
  • 4 oz unsalted butter at room temperature
  • 2 oz fresh goat cheese at room temperature
  • Two teaspoons cut chives
  • A few freshly cracked butternuts or black walnuts
  • Kosher salt to taste
  • Truffled maple syrup for drizzling, as a garnish (see recipe)
  • 10 grams Fresh honey truffles one small truffle, plus extra for shaving
  • 2 teaspoons cooking oil

Instructions

  • Mash or puree the butter and goat cheese, then roll into a log using parchment paper, refrigerate and reserve.
  • Preheat the oven to 375.
  • Cut the squash in half, scoop out the seeds and oil them lightly, then place cut side down in a pan and cook for 20 minutes, or until tender when pierced.
  • The cut side should be lightly browned.
  • Arrange half a small squash on each plate put a thick slice (1/2 oz) butter in the center, season lightly with salt, sprinkle with chives, a few slices of truffle and a drizzle of maple syrup. Scatter the nuts over the top and eat.

Honey Truffles Mattirolomyces terfezioides

Further Reading

Wikipedia| Terfez: the desert truffle 

Truffles from Hungary (My contacts page on FB)

Related

Previous Post: « Highbush Cranberry Sauce
Next Post: Highbush Cranberry-Ginger Jelly »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Ellen

    October 10, 2020 at 10:00 am

    Thanks for the write up. Not sure if I will go out of my way to try one.

    Reply
  2. Liz

    January 3, 2021 at 2:36 pm

    5 stars
    Interesting, I would love to try honey truffles. I recently overnighted mushrooms from oergonmushrooms.com because Oregon White Truffles are in season. They are my hands down favorite, but as it did not increase shipping cost I added in Matsutakes and Chantrelles. All were fabulous and I found this website as I was figuring out what to do with them. I wound up making an incredible Chanterelle chowder. I did the first batch of Matustakes with fish and will do miso next as I think it will be very good. The truffles I just shave over buttery pasta as that is my happy truffle rut. Very fun website. I will eat darn near anything and started killing lambs with friends because do local butchers would save the organs. Can you imagine tossing out lamb sweatbreads? The horror. Love your insults, reminds me of my long ago professional cooking life.

    Reply

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FORAGER | CHEF®
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Author: The Forager Chef’s Book of Flora
James Beard Award ‘22
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Alan Bergo
Summer veg PSA: One of the edible plant parts I co Summer veg PSA: One of the edible plant parts I cover in my book you might not know are squash and pumpkin shoots. 

Tender and delicious, these are eaten around the world. The US is still coming around, but I see them occasionally at farmers markets. 

I like to give them a dip in boiling water to wilt them quick, then toss them with some fat or stir-fry them quick. The little curly-cues make them look like fairy tale veggies to me. 

#squashshoots #cucurbitaceae #eatmoreplants #kehoecarboncookware
Shaved cattail rhizomes with smoked trout, chickwe Shaved cattail rhizomes with smoked trout, chickweed, lemon, hickory nut oil and tarragon from the @wild.fed shoot. 

I spent a couple days trying to cook the rhizomes, and it works, but raw is my favorite prep. 

I add some smoked trout both for the salty pop and because it’s fun to mix aquatic edibles. Runner bean flowers for a splash of color. 

#cattails #foraging #chickweed #runnerbeans #saladsofinstagram
Long, fun day snatching crayfish out of the water Long, fun day snatching crayfish out of the water by hand with Sam Thayer and @danielvitalis for @wild.fed 

Daniel and Sam were the apex predators, but I got a few. 

Without a net catching crayfish by hand is definitely a wax-on wax-off sort of skill. Clears your mind. 

They’re going into gumbo with porcini, sausage and milkweed pods today. 

#crayfish #ninjareflexes #waxonwaxoff #normalthings #onset🎥🎬
Working all day on preps for cattail lateral rhizo Working all day on preps for cattail lateral rhizomes and blueberries for this weeks shoot with @wildfed 

Been a few years since I worked with these. Thankfully Sam Thayer dropped a couple off for me to work with. They’re tender, crisp and delicious. 

Sam mentioned their mild flavor and texture could be because they don’t have to worry about predators eating them, since they grow in the muck of cattail marshes. 

I think they could use a pet name. Pond tusk? Swamp spears? Help me out here. 😂

Nature makes the coolest things. 

#itcamefromthepond #cattail #rhizomes #foraging #typhalatifolia
I liked the staff meal I made for Mondays shoot so I liked the staff meal I made for Mondays shoot so much we filmed it instead of the original dish I’d planned. 

Cooked natural wild rice (not the black shiny stuff) is great hot, cold, sweet or savory. It’s a perfect, filling lunch for a long day of berry picking. 

I make them with whatever I have on hand. Mushrooms will fade into the background a little here, so I use a bunch of them, along with lots of herbs and hickory nut oil + dill flowers. 

I’m eating the leftovers today back up in the barrens (hopefully) getting some more bluebs for another shoot this week w @wild.fed 

#wilwilwice #wildrice #chanterelles #campfood #castironcooking
Baby’s first homegrown mushrooms! Backyard wine Baby’s first homegrown mushrooms! Backyard wine caps on hardwood sawdust from my lumberjack buddy.

Next up blewits. Spawn from @northsporemushrooms

#winecaps #strophariaaeruginosa #allthemushroomtags
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