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Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

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American Wild Plum Leather (Tkelapi)

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Tkelapi or wild plum leather made from Prunus americana, American wild plums

Tkelapi plum leather, made from Prunus americana, the American wild plum, is a creative way to bypass the tough, tannic skins of the species.

Wild plums (Prunus americana) are in season, and they’re a puzzle. The flesh is rich and sweet, the perfume so deeply floral it will make your toes curl, but the skins, the skins are tough, and tannic enough to make you feel like you drank a few cups of chianti straight. 

The two aforementioned reasons are why I love wild plums, and they’re what keeps me on the trail to unlock their secrets. One of the best wild plum recipes I’ve made so far is tkelapi, a sort of fruit leather made in the Caucuses. 

Not a snack like other fruit leathers

Plum leather is, of course a thing, but it’s not what you might think. Technically, what I’m referring to is Tklapi, and it hails from Georgia. Not peach Georgia in America, but the Georgia of Eastern Europe.

I’d never heard of Georgia the country until my early twenties, when I lived in a dorm with a duo of flamboyant Georgianites named Yosef and Irakli and their friend who, after a drink or two, loved to regale me with tales of Goergian cuisine, as well as how stealing cars in countries across the border was easy, as once the vehicle was in Georgia, it was legally yours (for the record I can’t speak to that legality).

Besides drinking cognac together, we really didn’t interact much, but I always remembered through them that Georgia was a place, not a state. Not one for stealing cars, I kept the food tidbits around, and Tklapi was one I remembered being mentioned in passing, along with the kachapuri cheese bread many people know of.

Wild plums Prunus americana

Prunus americana. A fruit with a more enticing aroma I do not know, but the skins are tough, tannic, and a barrier to the sweet flesh within.

Traditional tklapi is nothing more than plums, cooked, pureed and dried into leather, and a quick google will show you plenty of examples in varying colors due to the stage of ripeness the plums are harvested at.

The plum leather isn’t used like you might generally assume fruit leather to be used though, as the Tkmali plum is tart, and is used to lend a sour, tart, fruity flavor to dishes, especially soups like the famous Kharcho.

wild plum leather recipe in a book

The Georgian Feast, by Darra Goldstein is a good book. Here’s her entry on Tkelapi.

Wait, what? Putting fruit leather in meat soup? Yes. Georgian cuisine is a big blend of things, but one of the dominant themes, as far as I can tell, is a strong hand with spices, herbs, hot chili, and flavors like tangy and sour.

If you look up Kharcho, you’ll find a bunch of recipes for beef soup with tomato now, but the original version was made with sour plum leather, and from here, you probably know where I’m headed with this.

My experiments using American wild plums as an analogy for the Tkmali plum had plenty of hits and misses, but the Tklapi style plum leather is one that I found to be interesting, and tasty enough to share. Tkmali I’ve about given up on.

Tkelapi or wild plum leather made from Prunus americana, American wild plums

The method is easy: stone and cook some wild plums with just a bit of liquid, puree them in a blender, spread the puree onto a silpat, and dry it–that’s it.

The leather is very tart, but there’s something about dehydrating that seems to soften the tannins a bit, too, and the same goes for stoning plums and drying them in the sun like North American Indigenous poeple like the Lakota and other tribes did (another good trick to try).

If you wanted, you could add sugar to the plum puree to add some sweetness, which will make a very tart, slightly sweet leather, but you won’t be adding that to a stew with meat. For the record, wild plum leather that’s been sweetened is ok, but just ok, and if I wanted to eat it for pleasure as a snack, I’d still probably cut it with some other fruit to add balance, and I might pass the skins through a mill first, too.

Tkelapi or wild plum leather made from Prunus americana, American wild plums

For quick drying and worry-free storage, make sure you plum leather is smooth and thin. 16th of an inch is good.

Back to the leather as a condiment. I wasn’t sure what to expect at first, but after making a few batches of stew with Georgian flavors, I started to get some results I liked.

As strong as the flavor of Prunus americana is, if you want to use it to flavor soup, you actually have to add alot more than you’d think. What ends up happening, is that the broth starts to get a subtle tartness from the leather, as well as a gentle viscosity that might remind you of weak cornstarch. It’s subtle, but pleasant, and in the right place, it can be pretty darn good, reminiscent of broth rich in collagen.

Just about any sort of sweet and sour soup I could think of might benefit from a bit, especially Eastern European soups that contain submissive cabbage but also beets, onions, and rich things like smoked meat, bacon, ham shanks, etc. Think of it as a secret addition for sweet and sour soup.

Sweet and sour venison Kharcho stew with wild plum leather

Sweet and sour venison stew, with wild plum leather, among other things.

Use Ideas

The possibilities don’t end there though. The leather can also be re-hydrated and made back into a puree for things like a simple sweet and sour plum sauce for game–just add some meat stock, heat, whisk, season it up, preferably with some dill and hot pepper, cook until it coats the back of a spoon, and, voila.

Or, keep going to the east and use the leather, rehydrated with water, some sugar, and something like 5 spice powder to make a riff on Chinese plum sauce for duck. It won’t be traditional, but it’ll be fun, and you’ll be shocked it came from American wild plums.

Here’s a template for making leather, and my favorite version of Kharcho so far, which, while it’s not exactly traditional, is pretty darn good if you like sweet and sour-type soups (pass the cold beer and sour cream).

If nothing else, it’s a pretty fascinating way to remove the tannins of American wild plums, while still using the whole fruit: pulp, skin, and all. Oh, and for the record, I wouldn’t use cultivated plums here, since they would be too sweet, the gentle tartness from the skins is part of what makes this versatile enough for savory foods.

Tkelapi or wild plum leather made from Prunus americana, American wild plums
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American Wild Plum Leather (Tkelapi)

A tart, sour leather made from dried American wild plums
Prep Time1 hr
Cook Time8 hrs
Course: Condiment
Cuisine: Goergian
Keyword: Drying, Preservation, Wild Plums

Ingredients

  • Wild plums, as needed

Instructions

  • Stone the wild plums and add to a large pot, you'll want at least a few pounds. Add a fingers width of water to the pot, cover, bring to a simmer, and cook until the plums have softened and given up their juice, about 20 minutes.
  • Puree the mixture in a blender until very smooth, then spread 16/th of an inch thick on silicone mats and dry in a warm oven, or a dehydrator at 135 F or on the fruit setting, until no longer tacky, flipping the sheets half way through to speed up the process, about 7-8 hours.
  • The finished leather can be stored in jars at room temperature, frozen, or refrigerated.

Notes

You can also dry the leather on parchment like Goldstein suggests, stringing up sheets of it on clothesline in the sun, but you'll need to soften the back of the parchment with a warm damp cloth to allow the leather to release.
Sweet and sour venison Kharcho stew with wild plum leather recipe
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Sweet and Sour Venison Stew (Kharcho)

A sweet and sour, spiced venison stew flavored with dried wild plum leather, inspired by Georgian Tkelapi. Serves 4-6
Prep Time45 mins
Cook Time2 hrs
Servings: 4

Ingredients

Stew

  • 8 cups water or meat stock
  • 2 lbs diced venison shoulder or neck or other fatty stew meat, like beef chuck
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt plus more to taste
  • ¼ cup cooking oil or lard
  • 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  • 2 ounces tklapi plum leather
  • ½ cup chopped cilantro or more, to taste
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill optional
  • ½ cup long grain rice
  • 1 large yellow onion (8oz) diced 1/4 inch or finely chopped
  • 2 rib of celery (4 oz) diced 1/4 inch or finely chopped
  • 2 large cloves of garlic finely chopped
  • Thick yogurt like Greek, for serving, optional

Spice mixture

  • 1 tablespoon sweet paprika
  • 1 teaspoon ground coriander
  • ¼ teaspoon ground 1fenugreek
  • ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes or to taste
  • ½ teaspoon dried basil or oregano
  • Tiny pinch of saffon optional

Instructions

  • Season the meat with the tablespoon of salt and allow to dry out in the fridge for a few hours, uncovered. Brown the meat deeply, pour off any spent oil, then then add the onion, garlic and celery, and additional oil if needed.
  • Sweat the vegetables for a few minutes, then add the paprika and cook for a minute more.
  • Add the stock or water, bring the mixture to a brisk simmer, add the plum leather and the rest of the spice mixture and reduce the heat to low and cook for 1.5 hours, or until the meat is tender.
  • Add the rice and cook for 20 minutes more, then finish by adding the fresh herbs, and vinegar. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve. It should be just barely have a sweet note, be strongly herbaceous, and slightly spicy. Yogurt makes a nice garnish. The flavor will improve the next day.

Related

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Dan F

    August 29, 2020 at 8:20 am

    Alan, in recent years I’ve developed quite an interest in early Minnesota history, and one book that really brought it alive for me is “Old Rail Fence Corners” (which you can read for free here: https://www.gutenberg.org/files/22179/22179-h/22179-h.htm ) It is the firsthand stories of the first settlers. One of the little things that struck me when I read it was all of the mentions of wild plums:

    – Miss Nancy Gillespie—1853.
    I remember a pear shaped wild plum which grew along the river bank. It was as large as the blue California plum and of a most wonderful color and taste. I have never seen anything like it and have not seen this variety of late years.

    -Mrs. Wilder—1854
    We had great quantities of wild plums on our own place. Two trees grew close together and were so much alike we always called them the twins. Those trees had the most wonderful plums—as large as a small peach. We used to peel them and serve them with cream. Nothing could have a finer flavor.

    -Mrs. Margaret A. Snyder—1856
    We had wild plums and little wild cherries with stems just like tame cherries, on our farm. They helped out tremendously as they with cranberries were our only fruit.

    -Mr. Charles Bohanon—1851
    On our farm was a thicket of plums which probably came up from the stones from one tree. Some were blue, some red, others yellow and red. Some were sour, some bitter, others tasteless, while others still, were sweet and of an exquisite flavor.

    -Mr. Austin W. Farnsworth—1851
    We found the most delicious wild, red plums, half the size of an egg and many berries and wild crab-apples.

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      August 29, 2020 at 8:24 am

      Thanks Dan!! That’s great. I love old accounts like that. The entries remind me a bit of the Lewis and Clark journals I’ve been listening to on Audible. I’ll have to take a look at the book. Actually off to the wild plum orchard right now to pick a couple bushels for my Slilovitz project with a local distillery.

      Reply
  2. Bethany Ringdal

    August 29, 2020 at 4:19 pm

    We have really loved using wild plums in fruit mead–one with rhubarb, and the best one yet with blackcaps and wild plums. So rich, dark, and fruity!

    Reply

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FORAGER | CHEF®
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Alan Bergo
Sometimes I forget we have good traditions in Amer Sometimes I forget we have good traditions in America too. Case in point: bourbon. 

TIL about American traditions, and the role of the white oak in aging. Tasted some of that sweet nectar too. 

The rye finished in rum barrels smells like pure maple syrup 🤤. @angelsenvy

#bourbon #whiskeyrow #angelsenvy #whiteoak
Summer veg PSA: One of the edible plant parts I co Summer veg PSA: One of the edible plant parts I cover in my book you might not know are squash and pumpkin shoots. 

Tender and delicious, these are eaten around the world. The US is still coming around, but I see them occasionally at farmers markets. 

I like to give them a dip in boiling water to wilt them quick, then toss them with some fat or stir-fry them quick. The little curly-cues make them look like fairy tale veggies to me. 

#squashshoots #cucurbitaceae #eatmoreplants #kehoecarboncookware
Shaved cattail rhizomes with smoked trout, chickwe Shaved cattail rhizomes with smoked trout, chickweed, lemon, hickory nut oil and tarragon from the @wild.fed shoot. 

I spent a couple days trying to cook the rhizomes, and it works, but raw is my favorite prep. 

I add some smoked trout both for the salty pop and because it’s fun to mix aquatic edibles. Runner bean flowers for a splash of color. 

#cattails #foraging #chickweed #runnerbeans #saladsofinstagram
Long, fun day snatching crayfish out of the water Long, fun day snatching crayfish out of the water by hand with Sam Thayer and @danielvitalis for @wild.fed 

Daniel and Sam were the apex predators, but I got a few. 

Without a net catching crayfish by hand is definitely a wax-on wax-off sort of skill. Clears your mind. 

They’re going into gumbo with porcini, sausage and milkweed pods today. 

#crayfish #ninjareflexes #waxonwaxoff #normalthings #onset🎥🎬
Working all day on preps for cattail lateral rhizo Working all day on preps for cattail lateral rhizomes and blueberries for this weeks shoot with @wildfed 

Been a few years since I worked with these. Thankfully Sam Thayer dropped a couple off for me to work with. They’re tender, crisp and delicious. 

Sam mentioned their mild flavor and texture could be because they don’t have to worry about predators eating them, since they grow in the muck of cattail marshes. 

I think they could use a pet name. Pond tusk? Swamp spears? Help me out here. 😂

Nature makes the coolest things. 

#itcamefromthepond #cattail #rhizomes #foraging #typhalatifolia
I liked the staff meal I made for Mondays shoot so I liked the staff meal I made for Mondays shoot so much we filmed it instead of the original dish I’d planned. 

Cooked natural wild rice (not the black shiny stuff) is great hot, cold, sweet or savory. It’s a perfect, filling lunch for a long day of berry picking. 

I make them with whatever I have on hand. Mushrooms will fade into the background a little here, so I use a bunch of them, along with lots of herbs and hickory nut oil + dill flowers. 

I’m eating the leftovers today back up in the barrens (hopefully) getting some more bluebs for another shoot this week w @wild.fed 

#wilwilwice #wildrice #chanterelles #campfood #castironcooking
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