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Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

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Marinated Cattail Hearts

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marinated cattail hearts I’ve been trying to harvest more young shoots, every year I get a little bit better with my timing, mostly from making sure I use a journal. I got a few cattail shoots/hearts last year, and loved them so much I had to go back and grab a few more, but by the time I got back, all the shoots were too old and foamy/woody. I didn’t stop thinking about the young shoots I had, which were a little like artichokes (with the shape of a leek) after a quick marinade.

This year I got a decent amount, and managed to put up a bigger version of the recipe I used. Basically it’s a pickle with a modestly low ph/acidity, it’ll last for a couple months if it’s under refrigeration, similar to one of my favorite methods for preserving mushrooms. The low acidity means you can use them on a bigger variety of things than you would aggressive pickles, it’s a really great stand in for any place you might want to use the texture of marinated artichokes on a dish. Simple preparations I’ve found are really the best for them, warmed up and placed on a piece of fish or served with some wilted greens have been my favorite methods so far.

The trickiest part has been knowing when the cattails are too old to harvest. Sam Thayer has an excellent harvesting timeline in his two books, Forager’s Harvest, and Nature’s Garden. For the cattail hearts or leaf hearts as they’re called, Sam Says the best time to get them is going to be late Spring, before the flower stalks have formed. From my experience in Minnesota this will be around the middle of May.

Haresting Cattail Shoots

As far as harvesting of the shoots, to save time in the field and in the kitchen I take a sharp carbon steel knife and a mesh-lined Italian mushrooming backpack, along with a pair of waders into the cattail marsh. I grasp the cattail by the bottom and yank up, if it doesn’t come off right away I’ll cut it at the base. The upper green portion of the cattail I typically compost, then I save the bottom few inches and put each one in my bag. When I get back to the kitchen, I remove the outer layers to reveal the tender core, which is what I use in the recipe below. After a while you’ll be able to feel with your knife if the cattail heart is tender enough to eat, if it isn’t, strip off another layer and keep going until it has a soft texture.

In the early spring you can damn near eat the whole bottom of these, there’s a much better yield earlier in the season than in the summer. I picked mine around the middle of June, and only got about 20% yield by weight from all my hearts, I can do better. That being said, it was still pretty painless to get all the cattails I needed for a special dinner (80 tasting menu portions) in about 2 hours.

marinated cattail hearts

marinated cattail hearts recipe
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Marinated Cattail Shoots

Gently cooked cattail shoots. Use like a relish.
Prep Time30 mins
Cook Time15 mins
Course: Appetizer, Snack
Cuisine: American
Keyword: Cattails, relish
Servings: 6

Ingredients

  • 2 cups cattail hearts tender white bottom portions only, diced 1/4 inch
  • 1/4 cup dry white wine
  • 2 tablespoons high quality champagne vinegar I like Beaufort brand
  • 1/2 tsp salt or more to taste
  • 1 fresh bay leaf you can substitute dried
  • 1 by 1 inch slice of lemon zest
  • 1/4 cup shallot diced 1/4 inch
  • 1/4 cup flavorful oil like extra virgin olive oil or sunflower
  • 1 tsp minced garlic
  • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

Instructions

  • Sweat the garlic in the oil, stirring occasionally until it is aromatic and slightly tan colored, do not allow the garlic to burn. Add the shallot and cook for 2 minutes more.
  • Add the wine, cattail hearts, bay leaf, lemon, thyme, and salt, then cook until the cattails are tender, about 10 minutes, covered with a piece of parchment to prevent too much water from evaporating and making the pan dry.
  • Add the vinegar, taste the mixture for salt and adjust as needed, then transfer to a container with a tight fitting lid and reserve until needed. The relish will keep for a month, if not longer.

Notes

This ends up tasting like artichoke relish. Generally when I use it I'm going to warm it up somehow and put it on something. Last week at my dinner at Heirloom Restaurant we spooned a little bit on top of pasta with a sauce made from their pollen.
You can substitute different herbs, but I really like bergamot, thyme, oregano, marjoram or summer savory.

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  1. Everyone Loves Cattail Recipes for Tourism Week – Richard St. Barbe Baker Afforestation Area. George Genereux Urban Regional Park. says:
    May 23, 2021 at 12:02 pm

    5 stars
    […] forget to try the Marinated Cattail Hearts recipe. Right now is the best time to forage for y our cattail leaf hearts. You may want to wander […]

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Alan Bergo
Morels: the only wild mushroom I count by the each Morels: the only wild mushroom I count by the each instead of the pound. 

Good day today, although my Twin Cities spots seem a full two weeks behind from the late spring. 2 hours south they were almost all mature. 

76 for me and 152 for the group. Check your spots, and good luck! 

#morels #murkels #mollymoochers #drylandfish #spongemushroom #theprecious
The first time I’ve seen fungal guttation-a natu The first time I’ve seen fungal guttation-a natural secretion of water I typically see with plants. 

I understand it as an indicator that the mushrooms are growing rapidly, and a byproduct of their metabolism speeding up. If you have some clarifications, chime in. 

Most people know it from Hydnellum 
peckii-another polypore. I’ve never seen it on pheasant backs before.

Morels are coming soon too. Mine were 1 inch tall yesterday in the Twin Cities. 

#guttation #mushroomhunting #cerioporussquamosus #pheasantback #naturesbeauty
Rain and heat turned the flood plain forest into a Rain and heat turned the flood plain forest into a grocery store. 

#groceryshopping #sochan #rudbeckialaciniata #foraging
Italian wild food traditions are some of my favori Italian wild food traditions are some of my favorite. 

Case in point: preboggion, a mixture of wild plants, that, depending on the reference, should be made with 5-23 individual plants. 

Here’s a few mixtures I’ve made this spring, along with a reference from the Oxford companion to Italian food. 

The mixture should include some bitter greens (typically assorted asters) but the most important plant is probably borage. 

Making your own version is a good excercise. Here they’re wilted with garlic and oil, but there’s a bunch of traditional recipes the mixture is used in. 

Can you believe this got cut from my book?!

#preboggion #preboggiun #foraging #traditionalfoods
Oh the things I get in the mail. This is my kind Oh the things I get in the mail. 

This is my kind of tip though: a handmade buckskin bag with a note and a handful of bleached snapping turtle claws. 😁😂 

Sent in by Leslie, a reader. 

Smells like woodsmoke and the cat quickly claimed it as her new bed. 

#buckskin #mailsurprise #turtleclaws #thisimylife #cathouse
Bluebell season. Destined for a Ligurian ravioli Bluebell season. 

Destined for a Ligurian ravioli as a replacement for the traditional borage greens. 

#mertensiavirginica #virginiabluebells #spring #foraging
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