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Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

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Candy Cap Mushroom Semifreddo

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Candy cap mushroom semifreddo_A while ago at the restaurant I got a wild hair and was craving candy cap mushrooms in some kind of dessert. I’d made ice cream, bread pudding, marshmallow, custard, all the usual things, but I wanted something a little different. I also know that they’re a hard sell in Minneapolis since most people have no idea what they are, so the dessert needed to have a solid shelf life too. A solid shelf life, for me, usually means it’s some sort of pre-cooked something like a custard that won’t out, or even better, something that comes out of the freezer during service. Don’t get me wrong, too much time in the freezer is definitely a bad thing too, but you’ll definitely get more miles out of frozen desserts than fresh ones.

Candy cap mushroom semifreddo_

Freeze the semifreddo in a loaf pan lined with plastic, individual ramekins, or whatever you like.

I try to pay homage to the gods of food cost when I can, and I try to make sure the product mix I’m running is balanced. For example, I’m not going to run two different types of desserts made from cookies layered with whipped cream at the same time, besides the obvious redundancy, they both have short shelf lives, and need to be made daily, if not a-la-minute during service.

Candy cap mushroom semifreddo_

After freezing, the semifreddo is easy to slice.

Enter the semifreddo, (Italian for “half-cold”). Basically it’s a type of custard you put in the freezer, then you take it out and eat it straight from the freezer like ice cream. It’s a dreamy mix of whipped up eggs and a little dairy, and it’s super versatile. Want to cut slices to decorate on a plate? Put it in a loaf pan. Want to un-mold individual semifreddi? Put them in ramekins, and dip the side in warm water, use a torch or a paring knife to get them out. If there is a container or dish you can put in the freezer, you can fill it with semifreddo. The make-ahead aspect is so nice too, just pull it out after dinner, slice it up, add a little garnish and, viola.

Candy cap mushroom semifreddo_

A few berries and a roasted chestnut were some of my favorite partners. Truthfully it’s just as good by itself on the plate alone, or maybe with a little caramel.

I should add too, there are a lot of different ways to make this, some add extra yolks, some only yolks, there’s lots of different ways to do it that you can find with a quick google. I use this recipe since it’s a modification I made of another recipe I have I was experimenting with one day that worked well.

Candy cap mushroom semifreddo_
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Candy Cap Mushroom Semifreddo

Yield: At least 8-10 portions, enough to fill a traditional loaf pan.

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup plus 1 cup heavy cream
  • ½ cup of sugar divided into two ¼ cups
  • 5 egg yolks
  • 3 egg whites
  • 1 tablespoon ground candy cap mushrooms

Instructions

  • Whip 1 cup of cream to soft peaks, then refrigerate. Whisk the egg yolks with ¼ cup of the sugar, the ground candy caps, and reserve. Heat the 1/2 cup of cream until steaming, then whisk half into the egg yolks thoroughly, then add the other half.
  • Return the egg mixture to the pan and cook on low heat, whisking gently, until the mixture thickens slightly and lightly coats the back of a spoon-a minute or two. Do not over heat or the mixture will curdle.
  • Transfer the mixture to a bowl to cool, whisking occasionally to help cool it.
  • Whisk the egg whites with the remaining ¼ cup sugar until stiff peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the yolk mixture gently, then the whipped cream. Finally spoon into a loaf pan lined with plastic or individual ramekins, cover with plastic, and freeze overnight to set.

Serving

  • Remove the semmifreddo from the freezer, and un-mold onto a cutting board, cut off slices (you can make it super easy by dipping the knife in boiling water, or running under a flame of a burner). Put the slices on chilled plates, garnish and serve immediately.

Related

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Ellen

    February 3, 2018 at 2:48 pm

    I am SO going to try this!
    I made a candy cap meringue cookie that was fantastic; this will be my next candy cap dessert adventure. Thanks.

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      February 3, 2018 at 3:46 pm

      Thanks Ellen, it’s easy to make with a hand or stand mixer.

      Reply

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    January 14, 2020 at 1:21 pm

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FORAGER | CHEF®
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Author: The Forager Chef’s Book of Flora
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Alan Bergo
HALP! I’ve been keeping an eye on two loaded mul HALP! I’ve been keeping an eye on two loaded mulberry trees and both got a bunch of fruit knocked down by the storms and wind. 

If anyone in West WI or around the Twin Cities knows of some trees, (ideally on private property but beggars can’t be choosers) that I could climb and shake with a tarp underneath, shoot me a DM and let’s pick some! 🤙😄

TIA

#throwadogabone #mansquirrel #beattlefruit #mulberries #shakintrees
Lampascioni, or edible hyacinth bulbs are one of t Lampascioni, or edible hyacinth bulbs are one of the more interesting things I’ve eaten. 

These are an ancient wild food traditionally harvested in Southern Italy, especially in Puglia and the Salentine Peninsula, as well as Greece and Crete. I’ve seen at least 6-7 different names for them. 

A couple different species are eaten, but Leopoldia comosa is probably the one I see mentioned the most. They also grow wild in North America. 

The bulbs are toxic raw, but edible after an extended boil. Traditionally they’re preserved in vinegar and oil, pickled, or preserves in other methods using acid and served as antipasti. (Two versions in pic 3). 

They’re one of the most heavily documented traditional wild foods I’ve seen. There’s a few shots of book excerpts here.

The Oxford companion to Italian Food says you can eat them raw-don’t do that. 

Even after pickling, the bulbs are aggressively extremely bitter. Definitely an acquired taste, but one that’s grown on me. 

#traditionalfoods #vampagioli #lampascione #cucinapovera #lampascioni #leopoldiacomosa #foraging
Went to some new spots yesterday looking for poke Went to some new spots yesterday looking for poke sallet and didn’t do too well (I’m at the tip of its range). I did see some feral horseradish though which I don’t see very often. 

Just like wild parsnip, this is the exact same plant you see in the store and garden-just escaped. 

During the growing season the leaves can be good when young. 

They have an aggressive taste bitter enough to scare your loved ones. Excellent in a blend of greens cooked until extra soft, preferably with bacon or similar. 

For reference, you don’t harvest the root while the plant is growing as they’ll be soft and unappealing-do that in the spring or fall. This is essentially the same as when people tell you to harvest in months that have an R in them. 

#amoraciarusticana #foraging #horseradishleaves #horseradish #bittergreens
In Italy chicken of the woods is known as “fungo In Italy chicken of the woods is known as “fungo del carrubo” (carob tree mushroom) as it’s one of the common tree hosts there. 

My favorite, and really the only traditional recipe I’ve found for them so far is simmered in a spicy tomato sauce with hot chile and capers, served with grilled bread. 

Here I add herbs too: fresh leaves of bee balm that are perfect for harvesting right now and have a flavor similar to oregano and thyme. 

Makes a really good side dish or app, especially if you shower it with a handful of pecorino before scooping it up with the bread. 

#chickenofthewoods #fungodelcarrubo #allthemushroomtags #traditionalfoods #beebalm
First of the year 😁. White-pored chicken of t First of the year 😁. 

White-pored chicken of the woods (Laetiporus cincinnatus) are my favorite chicken. 

Superior bug resistance, slightly better flavor + texture. They also stay tender longer compared to their more common yellow-pored cousins. Not a single bug in this guy. 

#treemeat #ifoundfood #foraging #laetiporuscincinnatus #chickenofthewoods
TBT brisket face 💦. Staff meal with @jesseroes TBT brisket face 💦. Staff meal with 
@jesseroesler and crew @campwandawega
📸 @misterberndt 

#staffmeal #brisket #meatsweats #naptime
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