Behold the julienne-a molten hot, cheese crusted, creamy mushroom extravaganza. Just about every hunter of Eastern European descent I’ve talked to has told me about this dish in some way shape or form, and for good reason.
If you look around, there’s plenty of recipes for mushroom julienne out there, most using button mushrooms. When I first heard about this and wrote it down in my diary of recipes to make, I knew that cultivated mushrooms wouldn’t have a place in it. The way I see it, if I wanted to make a julienne it needed to be worthy of the name. After reading Valentina Pavlovna describe the way Russians love their Borovik (a species of bolete) I knew only some perfect bolete buttons would do.
If you’re a mushroom hunter from the Midwest, you know it’s nigh impossible to find bug-less baby boletes. Well it took a couple years, and perfect timing, but I got some. Suffice to say, it was worth the wait.
It’s rich as hell, so this is one of those things you make once in a while, but it is definitely a great way to enjoy some fresh boletes. If they’re young enough, they’ll keep their crunchy texture, which is really something to savor. In all reality though, just about any mushroom that likes cream (exclude matsutake here) would be great cooked like this.
Fresh Porcini or Bolete Julienne
- Ceramic or other baking dish
- 4 oz young porcini or other bolete buttons cleaned, trimmed, and sliced 1/4 in thick
- 2 tablespoons cooking oil
- 1/4 cup yellow sweet onion diced 1/4 inch
- 1 tablespoon green garlic diced 1/4 in (chopped regular garlic can be substituted)
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 2 teaspoons all purpose flour
- 1/2 cup sour cream
- 1/4 cup grated grana padano parmesan can be substituted
- 1/4 cup grated gruyere
- Preheat the oven to 375.
- Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil or lard in a saute pan until nearly smoking. Add the porcini and cook over medium-high heat until browned and caramelized, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Remove the porcini from the pan and season with a pinch of salt and pepper, then add the remaining tablespoon of oil and saute the onion and garlic on medium-low heat, or until translucent and completely cooked through.
- Add the porcini and any juice they're given off back to the pan with the onions, add the fresh thyme, then add the tablespoon of butter and heat to melt. Stir in the nutmeg and flour and cook for a couple more minutes, stirring occasionally to remove the raw flavor from the flour. De-glaze the pan with the wine, then stir in the sour cream and cheeses. Double check the seasoning for salt and pepper, and adjust if needed.
- At this point the mixture should be thick and creamy, with a consistency a bit thicker than cream sauce. Transfer the mixture to an oven safe casserole and bake until bubbly and browned, about 15 minutes depending on if you have a convection oven or not. Allow the julienne to cool for 5-10 minutes before serving.