1lbground pork shoulder or whatever ground meat you have*
½cupbreadcrumbs
¼cupheavy cream
1teaspoonkosher salt
¼cupdried powdered mushroomssuch as chanterelles
1large egg
1small clove garlicgrated
1ozyellow onionminced
2teaspoonschopped fresh thymeor to taste
2teaspoonscooking oil
Small piece of cold unsalted butterfor rubbing on the cheesecloth
Braise
Pinchof crushed red pepper
8ozhedgehog Mushrooms
1Tablespoonpaprikasweet or spicy not smoked
2ozminced shallot
1large clove garlic grated
1cupdry white wine
4cupsstock
Finishing
2Tduck fat or equivalent
1tablespoonbutter mashed to a paste with a Tablespoon of flour
Dash of fresh lemon juiceto taste
Fresh cut chivesto garnish (optional)
Instructions
Meatloaf Mix
Heat the cream until steaming, then pour it over the dried mushrooms, salt and breadcrumbs in a bowl, mash to a paste with a fork and cool to room temperature. In a small pan, sweat the garlic and onion in the oil for a minute or two, just to take the edge off them, then add to the bread paste.
Combine bread paste, egg, onion mix, and meat in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment and blend well on low speed.
Cook a small piece of the meatloaf to test the seasoning for salt and herbs, adjust as needed, then scrape the mix out onto the middle of a large square of cheesecloth about 2-3 times the length and width of the torchon the center of which you’ve rubbed with a piece of butter (this prevents it from sticking to the meat).
Roll the meat gently into a chubby log, twisting the ends of the cheesecloth in opposite directions to help compress the mixture into a firm log. Tie the ends closed. The meat log should be tied very tight. If at all possible, allow the meat loaf mix to rest overnight which will deepen the flavor.
Braising the meatloaf
To cook the meat log, sweat the onion and garlic in the duck fat, then add the paprika and a pinch of salt and stir, gently cooking and toasting the paprika in the oil. Add the wine, cook for a minute, then add the stock and lower in the torchon. Add the mushrooms.
It’s ok if the meatloaf isn’t completely covered, just remember to turn it over a few times as it simmers. Bring to a simmer and cook on low heat, covered for 1.5 hours, then cool and chill overnight to firm and make slicing easier.
Finishing and serving
Remove the torchon and cut into thick slices. Reheat the jus and mushrooms, adding the paste of flour and butter, breaking it up with a fork, and reduce until thickened.
Double check the seasoning of the sauce and adjust as needed. Reheat the slices of meatloaf in the sauce (or in the oven if your pan doesn’t allow) add a dash of lemon juice to the sauce just before serving to brighten the flavor.
Lay a slice of meatloaf on each preheated dinner plate, spoon the sauce over, garnish with chives and serve.
Notes
Later I served this with shaved cabbage steamed and tossed with chopped fresh and butter and it was excellent. Riced cauliflower or rice is another good accompaniment.
*Ground pork is preferable here as it’s nice and fatty, but since you’re adding bread and eggs to the mixture you can really use whatever ground meat you have laying around.