Makes 1 cup, enough to generously garnish 4 plates
1cupfresh gooseberrieswashed and cleaned
1rib of celery
1sweet yellow onion
A bouquet garni consisting of 10 black peppercorns1 bay leaf, and a sprig of thyme (optional)
1cupdry white wine
1tablespoonmild honeylike clover or wildflower (do not use a strong flavored honey like buckwheat or chestnut)
1tablespoonunsalted butterdiced and chilled
Roast the squab carcasses in the oven at 350 degrees until browned, about 40 minutes. Chop the carcasses into 4 equal sized pieces with a meat cleaver. Put the roasted carcasses and remaining ingredients except the gooseberries into a stock pot and bring to a simmer, then turn down the heat and cook for 3 hours, or until the liquid is reduced by half.
Strain the carcasses from the stock, then add the gooseberries and reduce the remaining liquid in a wide pan until 1 cup remains (10 inch size would be perfect-the wider the pan the less time needed for the reduction to concentrate the collagen in the sauce and thicken it.)
Remove the pan from the heat, strain through the a chinois and whisk in the butter until the sauce is thickened slightly, then season to taste for salt and sweetness/honey, and reserve until needed (you will want to put the sauce in a sauce boat or something similar before serving to prevent further evaporation/reduction).
Homemade or prepared chicken stock can be substituted if squab carcasses are not available. This can easily be made days in advance.