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Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

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The Wild Harvest | Episode 6: Autumn

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The Wild Harvest Show | Episode 6: Autumn

Image by Jesse Roesler.

Episode six is the last entry in The Wild Harvest for 2020. 

From the start, back in April, Jesse and I had planned on featuring hen of the woods for this episode, along with whatever else I could come up with. Eventually hens turned into maitake when we got closer to the shoot date and I figured we could also get matsutake if we were lucky.

Hoffman hills recreation area, image by Jesse Roesler

Hoffman Hills near Menomonie was one of the first places we went in Episode one, so we went back to complete the circle. Image by Jesse Roesler.

The mushrooms, both being loved in Japan, along with my hunch I could still get enough roots to make kinpira gobo, was enough to convince us the episode should have a similar culinary theme to pay homage to the ingredients. We ended up deciding on burdock kinpira with grilled matsutake, hen of the woods with prickly ash sauce, wild greens and sunchokes, and wild plum sorbet scented with lemon balm. With our limited time, and working with what we had, I thought the theme worked out well, all things considered. 

Matsutake. Image by Jesse Roesler.
Matsutake. Image by Jesse Roesler.
Wild Plums Prunus americana image by Jesse Roesler
American plums (Prunus americana). Image by Jesse Roesler.
Wild sunchokes (Helianthus tuberosa)
Wild sunchokes. Image by Jesse Roesler.
Hen of the woods or maitake mushroom or grifola frondosa
Hen of the woods. Image by Jesse Roesler.

Scouting ingredients is always the kicker. Matsutake were ok—someone had cleaned up about 75% of my patch just 2 days after I scouted it, but, we were able to get enough to film. Once I had those safe and sound, I scouted for the hens. I scouted for a good 2 days, and, wouldn’t you know it, none of my spots were giving me any. Well, there were a few hens from my champion trees, but they’d just started, and wouldn’t be large enough to have the grandiose feel the featured hen should have for at least 5 days. There is some serious irony that we were able to film one of the rarest mushrooms in the Midwest on the first try, but the hen of the woods, of all the mushrooms, were eluding me. 

Chef Alan Bergo with Hen of the Woods Mushroom Image by Jesse Roesler

Eventually we got the champion hen we wanted, but we had to get creative. 😉

Then there was thievery. The last day of my scouting, right before sunset, I found the perfect hen in a remote location of one of my favorite parks. Having marked it with GPS, I walked out of the woods triumphantly, only to see two other hunters working their way through the woods right to where my marked tree was. Nervous, I circled behind them, following them from a distance until I came back to my marked tree, and, sure enough, they’d knicked it. Feeling silly for spending all day and the day before looking for the perfect hen with no luck, the universe sent me a poem, I hope you like it. 

Hen of the woods or maitake mushroom or grifola frondosa

One of the baby hens my patches gave, luckily we were able to get cutting shots in-situ from these. Image by Jesse Roesler.

Requiem for a Stolen Mushroom 

What is that?
At the base of the tree
Could it be?
The most perfect hen
Nestled and roosting
Meant just for me!

I jump up and down
These woods are the best!
So I mark that red oak with the GPS

Later I return
But with the worst luck
All I found was a stump
Seriously, WTF?!

So deeper I hike, flagulating myself for mistakes
And imagining the hen thief
In a pit full of snakes!

So I searched and I looked
For the hen that I lacked
But all I found were more stumps and one slippery jack!

Oh agony, oh tragedy
foul day of foul play
Whatever, I didn’t like mushroom hunting anyway!

I’ll yell and I’ll hollar and I’ll beat on my chest

I’d pay a million dollars just to see a single hen in its nest!

Sourness and remorse of the bitterest kind

I know it’s public land but that mushroom was mine

Enjoy the show, and, if you want to see it keep going, please share with your friends. 

Recipes

Kinpira gobo with matsutake and waterpepper

Kinpira gobo with matsutake. Image by Jesse Roesler.

Kinpira gobo with matsutake and waterpepper
Print Recipe
5 from 5 votes

Kinpira Gobo with Grilled Matsutake and Waterpepper

An addictive salad of burdock root and carrots. Matsutake and watercress are optional garnishes. Serves 4 as a side.
Prep Time15 mins
Cook Time10 mins
Course: Appetizer, Salad, Side Dish
Cuisine: Chinese
Keyword: Burdock
Servings: 4

Ingredients

  • ½ lb gobo root 1 large
  • ½ lb Carrot 1 large
  • 1 Tablespoon maple syrup or sugar
  • 1 Tablespoon apple cider vinegar
  • 2 Tablespoons soy sauce
  • 1 teaspoon fish sauce such as Red Boat brand
  • 1 1/4 cup water
  • 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
  • 1/2 inch piece finely grated, about 1/2 teaspoon Optional
  • 2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds Optional, to garnish
  • fresh waterpepper leaves Optional, to garnish
  • 2 teaspoons Chinese chives, sliced Optional, to garnish

Instructions

  • Wash the burdock well to remove dirt.
  • Have a bowl of cold water ready. Trim the ends off of the gobo, then cut into manageable lengths, about 6 inches long. Peel the lengths one at a time, then cut on the diagonal into ¼ inch-thick long ovals. Stack the ovals on each other a few at a time, then cut into ¼ inch match sticks.
  • Repeat with the rest of the gobo, putting the cut sticks into the water as you go. Repeat the process with the carrots, reserving them separate from the gobo (they don’t need to sit in water).
  • In a 10 inch pan, such as cast iron, or wide skillet, bring the gobo and 1 cup of water to a boil and cook for 5 minutes, covered. Pour off the water. Add the carrots, maple, ginger, vinegar, fish sauce, soy, half the sesame oil and the remaining 1/4 of water and cook rapidly on high heat, until the pan is nearly dry.
  • Turn off the heat, stir in the remaining sesame oil and chives, then transfer to a serving bowl. Garnish with the sesame seeds, and sliced herbs if using and serve warm, cool, or at room temperature.
hen of the woods mushroom with prickly ash sauce, sunchokes and wild greens

Grilled hen of the woods with Szechuan peppercorn sauce, sunchokes, and foraged greens. Image by Jesse Roesler

hen of the woods mushroom with prickly ash sauce, sunchokes and wild greens
Print Recipe
5 from 6 votes

Grilled Hen of the Woods with Prickly Ash Sauce, Sunchokes and Wild Greens

Grilled hen of the woods steaks with wild greens, sunchokes, and spicy prickly ash chili sauce.
Prep Time30 mins
Cook Time30 mins
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: American
Keyword: Hen of the woods mushroom, Szechuan Peppercorns
Servings: 2

Ingredients

Hens, Sunchokes and Greens

  • 8 oz hen of the woods meticulously cleaned or very young and pristine
  • 3 tablespoons cooking oil
  • 6 ounces fresh sunchokes
  • 6 oz mixed fall wild greens such as waterleaf, mallow, nettles and or watercress
  • Kosher salt to taste
  • Fresh lemon wedges
  • ¼ cup pricky ash oil see recipe

Prickly Ash Oil

  • ½ cup pricky ash chili oil see recipe
  • 2 teaspoons dried Szechuan peppercorns
  • ¼ cup chopped persicaria odorata rau ram/Vietnamese coriander or cilantro or parsley
  • 2 large large cloves garlic
  • 1 x 2 inch piece ginger

Instructions

Prep

  • If you use larger sunchokes, cut them into 2 inch pieces, otherwise leave them whole, trimming any long ends. Pour boiling water over the sunchokes, cool and reserve.
  • For the prickly ash oil, toast the Szechuan peppercorns, then pound in a mortar and pestle. Grate the garlic and ginger very fine into the oil, then mix with the remaining ingredients and reserve.

Chokes, hens, greens

  • Prepare a grill with wood. Cut the hen of the woods into 2 pieces, oil and season them with salt and pepper and reserve.
  • Ball the greens up and slice into 1/4-1/2 inch wide ribbons. Cook the sunchokes gently in a pan with oil until just tender.
  • Meanwhile, grill the hen until cook lightly browned, and hot throughout. When both the hen and the sunchokes are just don’t, quickly wilt the greens in a dash of oil, stirring well and adding a splash of water to help the greens cook quickly. Very lightly season the greens

Plating

  • Mound the greens in the middle of two dinner plates, arrange a chunk of grilled hen on the greens pretty side up, scatter the sunchokes around, drizzle with the chili oil and serve with fresh lemon on the side.
Print Recipe
5 from 5 votes

Szechuan peppercorn chili oil

Oil scented with hot chilis and szechuan peppercorns, similar to the one you see on the tables at some Asian restaurants. Yield: ¾ cup
Prep Time10 mins
Cook Time5 mins
Course: Condiment
Cuisine: Chinese
Keyword: Szechuan peppercorn
Servings: 8

Ingredients

  • ½ cup oil
  • 2 teaspoons Szechuan peppercorns
  • 4-5 large cloves garlic
  • 1 inch piece of ginger
  • 2 Tablespoons crushed red pepper flakes
  • 2 Tablespoons dried mild chilis like chili japones, or dried bell peppers
  • ¼ teaspoon salt

Instructions

  • Grind the Szechuan peppercorns in a spice grinder or highspeed blender until very fine-they won’t be totally powdered.
  • Slice the garlic and ginger thin, then combine with the oil and heat gently, until the garlic is lightly browned, and the oil is hot and bubbling. Add the remaining ingredients and pour into a bowl to cool, then strain and reserve the oil. Store the infused oil in the fridge after cooling.
Wild plum (Prunus americana) sorbet recipe

Wild plum sorbet with chokecherry sauce and wood sorrel. Image by Jesse Roesler.

Wild plum (Prunus americana) sorbet recipe
Print Recipe
5 from 6 votes

Wild Plum Sorbet with Lemon Balm (or Shiso)

A tart-sweet sorbet made from American wild plums. Enjoy like a palate cleanser in small scoops or after a meal of fish. To enhance the color, consider adding 1-2 oz (1/8-14 cup) of raspberry or another red fruit puree. I garnish it with chokecherry gastrique to enliven the color.
Prep Time30 mins
Cook Time5 mins
Spinning time45 mins
Course: Dessert
Cuisine: American
Keyword: Wild Plums
Servings: 8

Equipment

  • Ice cream or sorbet machine

Ingredients

  • 3.5 lbs very ripe wild plums
  • 1 cup water
  • 6 oz maple syrup or to taste
  • 1 teaspoon lime juice
  • Small handful of lemon balm leaves* See note
  • chokecherry gastrique see recipe in link

Instructions

  • Make the plum coulis
  • Freeze or gently warm the plums in a 250 degree oven until softened. Cool the plums until you can handle them, then mash in a bowl. Gradually add 1 cup of luke warm water and mix to help extract the wild plum puree. Mash the mixture through a colander, then reserve the puree. Discard the pits and skins, or save to make plum vinegar. You should have about 2.5 cups of plum puree.
  • Infuse the coulis
  • Tie the lemon balm leaves with twine into a bundle, mush them up a bit to release their aroma.
  • Heat 50% of the plum puree with the maple syrup and lemon balm bouquet and bring to a simmer, then turn off the heat, cool to room temperature, add the lime juice and salt, then refrigerate overnight, covered.
  • Spin/Churn
  • The next day, discard the herbs and spin in an ice cream maker until thickened, like soft serve, then freeze. When the plum sorbet freezes, it will be firm, allow it to sit at room temperature for a bit to soften it and make it scoop-able.

Notes

This was supposed to be made with shiso, but the frost took it before we were able to film, so, I used lemon balm instead. 

Chef Alan Bergo walking through the woods

Special Thanks 

Sam Thayer and Melissa Price of Foragers Harvest: Letting us film and harvest the most beautiful wild plums from their private orchard. 

Forage North: Coming through with the champion hen in my time of need. 

Bubbling Springs Farm: letting us film in the garden, and all over, all year long. 

Andrea Gerasimo: Generous use of the 3rd Mountain Space for filming, storing props and equipment, and putting up with grill smoke during yoga classes. 

Opinel: Collaborating with us on the episode. 

Related

Previous Post: « Matsutake Fried Rice
Next Post: Highbush Cranberry Sauce »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Kim

    October 6, 2020 at 4:36 pm

    Sad to see this is the last of this series for 2020! Is there nothing to forage for in winter?

    Reply
  2. Kim

    October 6, 2020 at 4:40 pm

    5 stars
    What a delightful edition. Everything sound marvelous. Thank you so much for your love of all things wild, for encouraging us to know and use (responsibly, of course) wild edibles. Beautiful work by all.

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      October 6, 2020 at 9:17 pm

      Thanks Kim

      Reply
  3. ViolaBluez

    October 6, 2020 at 9:31 pm

    5 stars
    Absolutely love your enthusiasm, happiness, and joy of the wild harvest. And especially your speciality of creating great edible food for the soul from what you harvest. A rare talent!

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      October 6, 2020 at 9:44 pm

      Thanks Twyla.

      Reply
  4. Dan F

    October 6, 2020 at 10:22 pm

    Wow, Alan! All of those videos are just the best… the photography, the foraging, the scenery, the cooking are all top notch. But what really stood out for me in this one is how comfortable you are with it. You seem to have really grown a LOT with this project. Its been fun seeing that.

    – Dan

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      October 6, 2020 at 10:24 pm

      Thanks Dan. It’s been good to have something to keep the juices flowing.

      Reply
  5. Kstherine

    October 7, 2020 at 5:57 am

    When I lived in Seattle Matsutake season was always a special time at Japanese restaurants. I had forgotten that until now. Thanks for the memory!

    Reply
    • Katherine

      October 7, 2020 at 6:01 am

      Forgot to add your grill setup is amazing!

      Reply
      • Alan Bergo

        October 7, 2020 at 8:53 am

        Thanks, we’ve really been enjoying the Kudu, nice and portable + cools down fast.

        Reply
  6. Nina

    October 10, 2020 at 9:05 am

    Finally had the time to sit down and give my full attention to your foraging and cooking video! I was busy myself finishing up canning, freezing and drying from the vegetable and herb garden. I’ve so enjoyed this series and always look forward to spending time learning more about the wild foods. I have a wild pear tree with little knobby pears on it and am getting ready to try and make pear jam or jelly from it. They are tough little boogers. Maybe you’ve addressed wild pears on here before but if you haven’t and have an idea for them, I would love to hear it. I so look forward to what you might try foraging in the future. Thank you for the absolutely amazing information!

    Reply
    • Terry Allaway

      December 1, 2020 at 11:09 pm

      Hi Nina, Were you able to make anything with your pears? I use the hard pears and “spitter” apples to make cider, or perry, in the case of the pears. Cheers, Terry

      Reply
  7. Gavin

    October 14, 2020 at 6:24 pm

    5 stars
    Watching these seriously has me wishing I lived back in the upper Midwest! Really inspiring stuff.

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      October 15, 2020 at 1:35 pm

      Thanks Gavin.

      Reply
  8. Eugenia Wade

    December 4, 2020 at 6:18 pm

    is there a way for me to view previous posts and to be alerted when there are more? Im not an instagram user

    Reply

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Alan Bergo
Oeufs de Gaulle is a classic morel recipe Jacques Oeufs de Gaulle is a classic morel recipe Jacques Pepin used to make for French president Charles de Gaulle. 

You bake eggs in a ramekin with shrimp topped with creamy morel sauce and eat with toast points. 

Makes for a really special brunch or breakfast. Recipe’s on my site, but it’s even better to watch Jacques make it on you tube. 

#jacquespepin #morels #shrimp #morilles #brunchtime
Morels: the only wild mushroom I count by the each Morels: the only wild mushroom I count by the each instead of the pound. 

Good day today, although my Twin Cities spots seem a full two weeks behind from the late spring. 2 hours south they were almost all mature. 

76 for me and 152 for the group. Check your spots, and good luck! 

#morels #murkels #mollymoochers #drylandfish #spongemushroom #theprecious
The first time I’ve seen fungal guttation-a natu The first time I’ve seen fungal guttation-a natural secretion of water I typically see with plants. 

I understand it as an indicator that the mushrooms are growing rapidly, and a byproduct of their metabolism speeding up. If you have some clarifications, chime in. 

Most people know it from Hydnellum 
peckii-another polypore. I’ve never seen it on pheasant backs before.

Morels are coming soon too. Mine were 1 inch tall yesterday in the Twin Cities. 

#guttation #mushroomhunting #cerioporussquamosus #pheasantback #naturesbeauty
Rain and heat turned the flood plain forest into a Rain and heat turned the flood plain forest into a grocery store. 

#groceryshopping #sochan #rudbeckialaciniata #foraging
Italian wild food traditions are some of my favori Italian wild food traditions are some of my favorite. 

Case in point: preboggion, a mixture of wild plants, that, depending on the reference, should be made with 5-23 individual plants. 

Here’s a few mixtures I’ve made this spring, along with a reference from the Oxford companion to Italian food. 

The mixture should include some bitter greens (typically assorted asters) but the most important plant is probably borage. 

Making your own version is a good excercise. Here they’re wilted with garlic and oil, but there’s a bunch of traditional recipes the mixture is used in. 

Can you believe this got cut from my book?!

#preboggion #preboggiun #foraging #traditionalfoods
Oh the things I get in the mail. This is my kind Oh the things I get in the mail. 

This is my kind of tip though: a handmade buckskin bag with a note and a handful of bleached snapping turtle claws. 😁😂 

Sent in by Leslie, a reader. 

Smells like woodsmoke and the cat quickly claimed it as her new bed. 

#buckskin #mailsurprise #turtleclaws #thisimylife #cathouse
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