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FORAGER | CHEF

Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

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Thaw Season

Thaw Season, foraging in Wisconsin and Minnesota In the Midwest we’re right on the edge of the most exciting time of year. But, it’s not quite Spring yet (I’m watching snow fall today and it’s March 31). Even when it technically turns to Spring, with melted snow and budding trees, as far as ingredients go, there aren’t many available locally yet. What are available is the holdovers from the last season farmers have stored, the turnips, beets, carrots, celery root, onions and other storage vegetables, combined with the first whispers of growth, but you won’t find that in a store.

winter storage vegetables, burdock, carrot, turnip, shallot,

Winter storage vegetables I had on hand from my local coop: burdock, golden turnips, carrots, small shallots.

After March 20th, the technical 1st day of Spring, most restaurants will hail the apparently instant change to the growing season by throwing handfuls of IQF peas on everything to prove it, but in actuality, our Spring in the Midwest comes on more slowly, and for the record, in the Midwest, peas definitely, positively, are not a Spring vegetable.

In the Birchwood cookbook, they describe our in-between time as the “thaw season” or something like that, and I always thought it was great that they tried to give the in-between time a name. For me personally, a more apt name might be: “Hellish Midwestern purgatory of Winter that will never end”, but, that might just be the cabin fever talking.

Thaw Season, foraging in Wisconsin and Minnesota
The snow thaws, but never as quick as you’d like.
Thaw Season, foraging in Wisconsin and Minnesota
The landscape, especially the valleys in Wisconsin where I do the majority of my foraging, are still very bleak looking.

Seasons aren’t as static as the vast majority of society holds them, and when you take time to notice the intricacies of your region, you’ll probably start to think a little differently about the compartmentalization we use to describe them. A recent cookbook I read hinted we should declare that there are actually 365 “seasons”, but for the average person that can be more confusing than helpful if you don’t have a giant garden or plot of land to study. With this in mind, I thought it would be fun to share a yearly tradition I like to do, a kind of challenge.

The challenge: make a dish combining Winter and Spring ingredients from your area

Appreciating where we are in the wax and wane of yearly growth is useful to the cook in all of us, and can make for some great food, new dishes that can help challenge what the words seasonal and local mean. Every year in this weird purgatory time I try to make a dish or two that highlights that, and you can too, but there’s a couple rules:

  • Use some sort of the first green growth of Spring, whatever it is
  • Don’t use any ingredient that couldn’t potentially have been preserved from the previous season, or held in a root cellar

Where to find your Winter-Spring ingredients

Don’t know exactly what’s available in the moment in your area? Find your nearest coop and talk to someone in the produce section, many coops list their seasonal produce, and if they don’t people can generally point you in the right direction.

Here’s some examples of ingredients from the Midwest where I live I might use 

Spring ingredients 

  • Watercress
  • Chickweed
  • Nettles

Winter storage ingredients 

  • Carrots
  • Burdock
  • Turnips
  • Celery Root
  • Rutabaga
  • Beets
  • Onions
  • Shallots
  • Garlic

Dehydrated ingredients and seasonings 

  • Herbs from the previous season
  • Vegetables like squash and leeks
  • Beans and legumes
  • Wild rice
  • Buckwheat groats
  • Wheat, rye, and spelt berries
  • Oats
  • Millet
  • Nuts, seeds and their oils
  • Dried corn and cornmeal

Constraints and limitations=growth and new dishes 

It seems like a lifetime ago I was working at Heartland, where we didn’t use any ingredient from greater than 300 or so miles of Minnesota. Citrus? No. Olive oil? No. Pasta? You’re going to have to make it yourself. The limitations, which were daunting at first, eventually became a sort of inspiration. Since we couldn’t use citrus, we relied heavily on vinegars, some of which we would make ourselves, instead of importing fish from the coasts, we used strictly freshwater fish, which introduced new species, textures and flavors into my lexicon.

Chicken stew with watercress and root vegetables

From 2 years ago: chicken broth with root vegetables and fresh watercress from the stream, another example of in-between season cooking.

The golden nugget here is that limiting yourself and not reaching for that comfortable cherry tomato in the Winter can change how you think about combining ingredients, and make you more in touch with where you live. Instead of being a prison, it can open up a whole new world of possibilities. No one’s saying you need to do it all the time, either, I don’t, but I always take some time each year to consider what could be.

Here’s an example of what I made this year, a shoulder of goat marinated with wild herbs and onions, cooked with root vegetables and the first nettle tops of the year.

End of winter goat shoulder stew

End of winter goat shoulder stew

Take a shoulder of goat, and marinate it overnight with salt, white wine, powdered wild herbs and dried onions. The next day, bring it to a simmer, covered and cook until soft. Strain the broth out and use it to cook some soaked beans, burdock, carrots, turnips and small shallots, adding the vegetables in order of how fast they’ll cook. When the vegetables and beans are tender, add some pieces of the shoulder back to the pot, along with young nettle tops to finish and serve them with some of the broth. Drizzle some hickory nut oil over the top of each serving. 

Want to see a complete recipe? It’s posted here.

End of winter goat shoulder stew

You might not live in the Midwest, but wherever you are, chances are that there are parallels here for you. I hope, if nothing else, I’ve given you a moment to consider some.

Related

Previous Post: « Bergamot / Monarda Fistulosa / Wild Oregano
Next Post: Half-Free Morels »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Maddy

    March 31, 2018 at 10:31 am

    Hi Alan:
    I am tapping a couple of Walnut trees,
    The first batch got away from me, and turned into a hard dark Carmel. I added more walnut water, strained it, and now I have 4 quarts of sweet bitter juice.
    I started over and keeping my eye on it , turning it off at nite.
    If anyone has ideas of what to do with it,
    It has to be you???? Are you still in the cities? I am a loyal follower and share your posts.
    Maddy Papermaster

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      April 2, 2018 at 10:52 am

      Unfortunately, when sugar is cooked down and begins the transformation that happens to it’s chemical structure and flavor from browning, you can’t turn back the clock. Very light caramels can be diluted or used to line molds while warm, i.e. flan, but dark ones I have never had success with. I would start over.

      Reply
      • Maddy

        April 3, 2018 at 11:37 am

        It’s Great on good Vanilla ice cream.
        It tastes like a Carmel Coffee topping.
        Tried it after I emailed you.
        My new batch is almost ready,
        Keeping my eyes on it almost hourly.
        Maddy

        Reply
        • Alan Bergo

          April 3, 2018 at 11:56 am

          Sounds like it wasn’t too far reduced, good deal.

          Reply
  2. Dorothy Bacon

    March 31, 2018 at 11:40 am

    You didn’t mention ramps. Any time now we hope

    Reply
  3. Jacqui

    March 31, 2018 at 3:55 pm

    For Easter dinner we’ll be eating a roe deer shoulder from the deer I found at the side of the road in November. Spring is in full swing here, so I have a choice of ramps, hogweed shoots, wild chervil, garlic mustard, rumex or nettles (or watercress if I feel like getting wet). I know I’m spoiled. I even collected some tender vetch shoots this afternoon.
    And I am making a Nettle Khatchpuri to take to Easter lunch at my friend’s. Recipe here https://soilandspice.co/2017/01/02/on-foraging/

    Reply
  4. David Griggs

    April 1, 2018 at 9:21 am

    Hello Alan,
    I have been following you for about a year now. It is with great joy and anticipation that my girlfriend and I read your posts. We save them up for Coffee Time on Lazy Sunday mornings. We live in northern Minnesota and are blessed to live on 40 acres bordered by a quiet stream. We have a large garden(42 x 126 ft), harvest lots of venison, lots of birds, and as of late tons of fungi, and wild plants. I possess a fair collection of wild food plant guides, my favorite three being from Samuel Thayer. I also have half a dozen fungi texts. I was just wondering, since you have accumulated a vast array of fungal species that you consume, what are some of your favorite reference texts/authors. Hope you are having great day,
    Dave

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      April 2, 2018 at 9:09 am

      Thanks David. Good to hear you have Sam’s guides, I’m doing a dinner with him on the 28th of April in Eau Claire, he’s one of my favorite colleagues, and role models. As far as mushrooms, I’d make sure you have everything by David Arora, especially the large one: Mushrooms Demystified, that book has helped me key out more unique species than anything else.

      Reply
  5. David Griggs

    April 1, 2018 at 9:24 am

    Oh,almost forgot, my girlfriend won’t eat goat, do you think a venison shoulder would work in the above recipe? I have two meat covered scapulas from a nice fawn taken this fall.

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      April 2, 2018 at 9:07 am

      Goat, pork, lamb, deer, anything will work as long as it’s a slow cooking cut like shoulder or chuck.

      Reply
  6. Nathan Perrier

    April 1, 2018 at 11:42 am

    Gah! It’s torture right now! I’m so giddy for ramps and morels!

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      April 2, 2018 at 9:07 am

      Yes, the Winter here has been very long. As far as your other question: I’m currently working as a USDA funded culinary consultant for a lamb and goat farm in WI. The grant work involves a new video series of 6-9 episodes I co-produce with my videographer partner. A separate grant has me doing photography, recipe development, and writing bi-quarterly articles for the Heavy Table. I’m also trying to edit and sell a book proposal. As far as restaurants go, I’m consulting on a space in S. Minneapolis, it isn’t ready for me to put my name on it though, since I’m only helping out 2 days a week. Small French restaurant next to Pizzeria Lola.

      Reply

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Alan Bergo
I made vegan fish sauce from ramp juice. You tak I made vegan fish sauce from ramp juice. 

You take the pure juice of the leaves, mix it with salt, Koji rice, and more chopped fresh ramp leaves, then ferment it for a bit. 

After the fermentation you put it into a dehydrator and cook it at 145-150 F for 30 days. 

The slow heat causes a Maillard/browning reaction over time. 

After 30 days you strain the liquid and bottle it. It’s the closest thing to plant-based fish sauce I’ve had yet. 

The potency of ramps is a pretty darn good approximation of the glutamates in meat. But you could prob make something similar with combinations of other alliums. 

The taste is crazy. I get toasted ramp, followed by mellow notes from the fermentation. Potent and delicate at the same time. 

I’ve been using it to make simple Japanese-style dipping sauces for tempura etc. 

Pics: 
2: Ramp juice 
3: Juicy leaf pulp 
4: Squeezing excess juice from the pulp
5: After 5 days at 145F 
6: After 30 days 
7: Straining through Muslin to finish

#ramps #veganfishsauce #experimentalfood #kojibuildscommunity #fermentation #foraging
Oeufs de Gaulle is a classic morel recipe Jacques Oeufs de Gaulle is a classic morel recipe Jacques Pepin used to make for French president Charles de Gaulle. 

You bake eggs in a ramekin with shrimp topped with creamy morel sauce and eat with toast points. 

Makes for a really special brunch or breakfast. Recipe’s on my site, but it’s even better to watch Jacques make it on you tube. 

#jacquespepin #morels #shrimp #morilles #brunchtime
Morels: the only wild mushroom I count by the each Morels: the only wild mushroom I count by the each instead of the pound. 

Good day today, although my Twin Cities spots seem a full two weeks behind from the late spring. 2 hours south they were almost all mature. 

76 for me and 152 for the group. Check your spots, and good luck! 

#morels #murkels #mollymoochers #drylandfish #spongemushroom #theprecious
The first time I’ve seen fungal guttation-a natu The first time I’ve seen fungal guttation-a natural secretion of water I typically see with plants. 

I understand it as an indicator that the mushrooms are growing rapidly, and a byproduct of their metabolism speeding up. If you have some clarifications, chime in. 

Most people know it from Hydnellum 
peckii-another polypore. I’ve never seen it on pheasant backs before.

Morels are coming soon too. Mine were 1 inch tall yesterday in the Twin Cities. 

#guttation #mushroomhunting #cerioporussquamosus #pheasantback #naturesbeauty
Rain and heat turned the flood plain forest into a Rain and heat turned the flood plain forest into a grocery store. 

#groceryshopping #sochan #rudbeckialaciniata #foraging
Italian wild food traditions are some of my favori Italian wild food traditions are some of my favorite. 

Case in point: preboggion, a mixture of wild plants, that, depending on the reference, should be made with 5-23 individual plants. 

Here’s a few mixtures I’ve made this spring, along with a reference from the Oxford companion to Italian food. 

The mixture should include some bitter greens (typically assorted asters) but the most important plant is probably borage. 

Making your own version is a good excercise. Here they’re wilted with garlic and oil, but there’s a bunch of traditional recipes the mixture is used in. 

Can you believe this got cut from my book?!

#preboggion #preboggiun #foraging #traditionalfoods
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