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Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

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Winter Radish-Ramp Preserves / Retach mit Shmaltz

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Fermented radish preserves recipe or shmaltzI’m not Jewish, but they’re masters of doing interesting things with poultry lard, and I love duck fat.

This is one of those under the radar-cultural specialties people get flushes of memories from, or so the stories go. You might find it in an old delicatessen, or place that sells things like gribenes, and gefilte fish–old school Jewish style, specifically the eastern European style or Ashkenazi, as opposed to Sephardic, which tends toward Arabic flavors. Basically it’s grated radishes mixed with poultry fat, garlic and salt. Early versions were likely fermented, very stinky, and delicious. Mine is all of those things.

The first time I read about this was in the book 1000 foods to eat before you die-a treasure trove of regional and specialty foods from around the world. Somewhere inside was a funky sounding recipe using grated black radishes mixed with garlic and chicken shmaltz, the author claimed it was not “for the faint of heart”.

Radish-Ramp Conserves. or Retach mit Shmaltz

One of my early batches of radish shmaltz, note that I used animal lard in this one, so it needed to be warmed to be spreadable. You can experiment a bit, but it needs to be a spread.

I live for all manner of stinky foods, so I made a couple versions to see if it would be too stinky to serve customers. If you haven’t experienced the aroma of a pickled or marinated radish that has sat for a few days before, prepare yourself, and open up a window. The aroma is one of the strongest in the vegetal world I know of, but the flavor is mild.

After marinating in the fat for a while the radishes soften and become almost like a spread, soaking up the aroma of the shmaltz which could easily be infused with different things (hard herbs like rosemary or sage, or a blend). 

Heirloom Radish

Another fun radish we used was lavender radish, an heirloom that’s purple on the inside. They’re mild compared to Spanish black radishes.

I liked it so much we started playing around with different variations and putting it on our amuse-bouche at the restaurant. We made it out of carrots with ginger and bacon fat, watermelon radishes with duck fat, breakfast radishes with soft butter, purple radishes with smoked lamb fat and garlic (served warm). We made so much of the stuff we just started to call it “shmaltz”.

Experimenting with different ingredients taught me a couple things:

  • The radish preserves must be eaten at room temperature, otherwise they will be grainy with fat. Leave them out for a while before eating like you would cheese, if they’re not soft enough after 30 minutes, give them a stir and work them around a bit.
  • Don’t skimp on squeezing out the water after salting the radishes, you don’t want extra moisture in there.
  • This is best with spicy winter radishes like black radish and watermelon radish, carrots and other root vegetables were not nearly as good, and didn’t seem to soften to a silky smoothness like radishes did.
  • I recommend some sort of onion-y character like garlic, onion, or in the case of this recipe, ramps for this. Using ginger as a substitute was not nearly as good.
  • Be careful with the fat you use. Animal fat tastes the best, softened butter would be a close second. You could try using different flavored oils, but I prefer the lard. As for the type of lard, poultry lard is the way to go. Other animal fats like pork, beef, and lamb that I render my self seemed too stiff for some reason, even at room temperature.

If you’re wondering what you do with stuff like this, here’s a few great ways to enjoy it:

  • Spread on toast or a sandwich as a stinky condiment (personal favorite)
  • On crackers
  • Straight out the jar with a fork
  • As a component of a cheese or cured meat plate
  • Warm up the preserves and put them on top of a piece of fish or chicken
Fermented radish preserves recipe or shmaltz
Print Recipe
5 from 3 votes

Fermented Radish Spread (Shmaltz)

These would be great smeared on a sandwich or with a slice of cheese and watercress on warm bread. Yield: about 2.5 cups
Prep Time30 mins
Aging Time3 d
Course: Appetizer, Side Dish, Snack
Cuisine: Jewish
Keyword: Radish, Rillettes, Shmaltz, Winter Radish

Ingredients

  • Winter radishes peeled and grated to yield 1.5 lbs, or roughly 4 cups of shaved radishes
  • 2.5 Tablespoons 34 grams kosher salt
  • 1 Tablespoon minced garlic or ramp bulbs
  • 2 oz chopped yellow sweet onion 1/4 cup
  • ¾ cup rendered poultry lard or a light flavored oil like sunflower especially Smudes)

Instructions

  • Combine everything but the poultry lard and mix well, then vacuum seal, label, date, and allow to ferment for 2 weeks. After two weeks, squeeze the radish mixture dry, then put in the bowl of a food processor and blend, drizzling in the shmaltz or oil until takes on a spreadable texture. Transfer to a container and refrigerate.

Notes

Variations
Horseradish Radish Rillettes
Substitute 4-8 oz of fresh grated horseradish to the radishes. Add some extra oil when processing to help get a spread-able texture. 

Related

Previous Post: « Pumpkin Butternut Squash
Next Post: Rhubarb Compote With Angelica and Dried Cherries »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Jan Wirth

    May 17, 2016 at 12:18 pm

    Hi, Alan – I typically render my own lard. Have you tried the recipe with it or does it work better with poultry fat? I’m going to try it and will use butter if you don’t think lard will work.
    Thanks, Jan

    PS – really enjoy your blog

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      May 17, 2016 at 9:09 pm

      Hi Jan, so here’s the deal on the lard with this. It’s great in theory, and I tried beef, lamb, and pork lard. Only poultry lard seemed to work since it stays soft, the other lards, even at room temperature became grainy. Using clarified butter would be fine too. Glad you like the page.

      Reply
      • Jan Wirth

        May 17, 2016 at 9:51 pm

        Thanks for the info. I will give it a try with butter.

        Reply
  2. Ariela

    December 17, 2020 at 6:48 pm

    5 stars
    Traditionally we had this as a foreschpiese before Shabbat dinner. My mom made it with shredded rutabaga and onions sautéed in (sorry) regular oil. Delicious, with a kick.

    Reply
  3. Carla Beaudet

    June 5, 2021 at 7:29 pm

    5 stars
    The Korean radishes I planted in early Spring started to bolt (I think this is the last time I try to get a Spring crop of the large ones) so I pulled them two weeks ago and started this recipe. Today I finished it, using duck fat leftover from a gizzard confit. Have to say, I’m very much looking forward to making a sandwich of this and arugula on sourdough. It’s funky in a very good way.

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      June 6, 2021 at 6:33 am

      Carla, I’m so glad you tried it. Takes a little time, but it’s a great way to enjoy those big radishes.

      Reply

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Alan Bergo
I liked the staff meal I made for Mondays shoot so I liked the staff meal I made for Mondays shoot so much we filmed it instead of the original dish I’d planned. 

Cooked natural wild rice (not the black shiny stuff) is great hot, cold, sweet or savory. It’s a perfect, filling lunch for a long day of berry picking. 

I make them with whatever I have on hand. Mushrooms will fade into the background a little here, so I use a bunch of them, along with lots of herbs and hickory nut oil + dill flowers. 

I’m eating the leftovers today back up in the barrens (hopefully) getting some more bluebs for another shoot this week w @wild.fed 

#wilwilwice #wildrice #chanterelles #campfood #castironcooking
Baby’s first homegrown mushrooms! Backyard wine Baby’s first homegrown mushrooms! Backyard wine caps on hardwood sawdust from my lumberjack buddy.

Next up blewits. Spawn from @northsporemushrooms

#winecaps #strophariaaeruginosa #allthemushroomtags
It’s wild cherry season. I’ll be picking from It’s wild cherry season. I’ll be picking from my favorite spot tomorrow a.m. and have room for a couple helpers. It’s at an event on a farm just south of St. Cloud. 

If you’re interested send me a message and I’ll raffle off the spots. Plenty of cherries to go around. I’ll be leading a short plant walk around the farm too. 

#chokecherries #foraging #prunusvirginiana #summervibes
Special thanks to the beach in Ashland for hooking Special thanks to the beach in Ashland for hooking it up with on-site garnishes. Beach pea flowers taste strong and leguminous, similar to vetch, or like a rich tasting pea shoot. 

#lathyrusjaponicus #beachpeas #peaflower #foraging #northshore #bts
Great, long day of filming in near the south shore Great, long day of filming in near the south shore of Lake Superior yesterday. 

Blueberries were sparse, and some kind of blight seems to be affecting the serviceberries. Chanterelles weren’t as good as 2020, but they were there. 

Quick dip in the Lake Superior after we broke set was a bonus. 

W/ @barebonesliving  @misterberndt @jesseroesler

#barebonesliving #foraging #lakesuperiorrocks #serviceberries #chanterelles #bts
Green ramp seed make a great lactoferment. Just pu Green ramp seed make a great lactoferment. Just put the green seeds in brine in a jar, leave for 2 weeks. 

After they’re sour they can be water bath processed, although I’ve stored them at room temp without an issue too. 

Finished product is great minced or puréed into places where you’d like garlic, capers, or both. 

Makes a great tzatziki with a little crumbled, dried bee balm. 

#tzatziki #ramps #rampseeds #foraging #fermentation
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