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Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

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Castagnaccio-Inspired Maple and Acorn Flour Torte

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Maple-Acorn CakeWhen I sat down to write the nut chapter on my book, I knew I had to do some fun things with acorns, and I really wanted to make a dessert to illustrate how acorn flour can be used as a substitute for chestnut flour Italians use to make things like castagnaccio, the chestnut flour cake. 

I don’t know how much precious acorn flour I used on batches of this acorn cake that I didn’t like and fed to friends and family, birds or hungry pitbulls, but it was a lot, if you’re familiar with the process you know it’s an effort to harvest, cure, crack, leach, grind and cook acorns. 

Cracking and shelling dried acorns

There’s plenty of acorn flour recipes online that show you how to make sweet things, but most of them suggest using acorn flour as a sort of seasoning or additive, trying to create something new by substituting in, say, 30% of the wheat flour in a recipe with acorn flour.

I’ve found I like using a blend of wheat and acorn flours in some recipes (acorn crepes), but I wanted to make something new to encourage people to look beyond the 70/30 (roughly) rule of wheat to acorn flour. For the book, nothing less than 100% acorn flour would do. 

Challenging the 70/30 ratio

If you’re not familiar, the 70/30 and similar ratios of wheat flour to acorn flour allow the gluten in the flour to still be strong enough to trap carbon dioxide.

The blending of flours allows things to still rise, as acorn flour is, just dried nut powder, after all, and if you tried to substitute acorn flour completely for wheat flour in, say, a cake, you’ll likely going to end up with a heavy, edible brick. 

Cracking and shelling dried acorns (15)

An idea came to me as I was eating a nice, creamy slice of black bean cake that my friend Dorothy Bacon made. As I ate the cake, noticing how moist it was, I asked how she made it and she told me it was basically some beans, eggs, and sugar.

It hit me then like a gunnysack of acorns to the head: what if, instead of trying to make acorns conform to European wheat flour recipes, by sneaking in a little bit, I do something different entirely? I figured I could cook them into a thick mash as you would polenta, using that as the start of the cake batter. After a few tries, and some helpful feedback from tasters in the Gerasimo family, I made the version that’s in the book.

Cold-Leeched Acorn Flour

Finished, cold-leeched acorn flour.

The only trick was figuring out how to lighten the cake a bit. A little baking powder would be in order, but I also figured I could use a base of whipped eggs as in the beginning of many European cakes to help give it some lift and lighten the texture. 

Dealing with maple’s water content  

The other component was the sweetener. I wanted to use all maple syrup to get as close to a 100% forest product as I could, but that’s a difficult proposition. Anyone who’s cooked with maple syrup knows that it contains a lot of water, and adding that to eggs and cooked acorn mash will probably make a wet, sloppy, expensive mess.

I needed to remove the water from the maple in a way that wouldn’t make the cake soggy, so I tried cooking my ground acorn flour directly in the maple syrup. The acorn flour absorbs all the water from the maple syrup as it hydrates, killing two birds with one stone. From there, I mix the acorn-maple paste into some eggs whipped to full volume, pour the batter into a springform pan, slip it in the oven, and, that’s it. 

The finished product is rich and sustaining, similar to a black bean cake if you’ve ever had one (go figure). As for the taste, acorns are mild, but I’d describe this as reminiscent of coffee cake, with the bite of a firm cheesecake with an interesting, pleasant texture.

It’s sweet, but not cloying, and it’s something I feel good about serving because there’s not an ounce of processed sugar in the entire thing. Conversations at the dinner table about the labor and process of what it takes to work with acorns make it taste even better. 

Maple-Acorn Cake

The texture will be similar to a chocolate torte, or cheesecake, but with more texture.

Slice of acorn Maple Cake on a plate
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Maple-Acorn Torte

A rich cake made from acorns, maple syrup and eggs. Inspired by traditional uses of chestnut flour. a dense cake made with nothing more than acorn flour, eggs, maple syrup, and a little bit of technique. Instead of using acorn flour raw, I hydrate it by cooking it into a mash beforehand. The flavor is slightly reminiscent of coffee cake, but don’t expect a light, airy fluff—the acorns add a certain weight to it you’ll feel. It’s something to behold, simply sliced, possibly warmed, with a dollop of whipped cream and a cup of coffee. You could probably substitute other nut meals for acorn, but I haven’t tried. Makes one 8-inch (20 cm) cake
Prep Time20 mins
Cook Time30 mins
Course: Dessert
Cuisine: American
Keyword: Acorn

Ingredients

Acorn Base

  • 1 tablespoon maple or white sugar for dusting the pan
  • 5 ounces1 cup 140 g acorn flour, finely ground and sifted
  • 1 cup 240 ml water
  • 4 ounces 225 g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing the pan
  • 1 cup 240 ml maple syrup

Egg Mixture

  • 5 large eggs

Seasonings etc

  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract or wild vanilla extract, the recipe for this is in my book
  • ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • ¼ teaspoon salt

Instructions

  • Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter an 8-9in (20-22cm) springform pan, then sprinkle with maple sugar.
  • Toast the acorn flour lightly in a skillet or oven until just beginning to darken—don’t allow it to burn—then set aside to cool. Meanwhile, mix the water, butter, and maple syrup and bring to a boil, then add the toasted acorn flour and cook just until it thickens and a paste forms, then transfer the mixture to a bowl, cover it with cling film, and cool to room temperature.
  • Mix the cinnamon, salt, and baking powder.
  • In a stand mixer, beat the eggs until light-colored with a whisk, add the vanilla and cinnamon mix, then gradually add the acorn paste.
  • Mix until combined, then beat the mixture for another minute or two until you get a fluffy batter.
  • Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until just barely cooked through—if the middle if puffed and upright, it’s overdone and could potentially taste dry. When in doubt, underbake it slightly, as it will continue to cook with the residual heat as it cools. The texture should be smooth, a little reminiscent of a flourless chocolate torte, but with slightly more texture.
  • Serve with whipped crème fraiche, whipped cream, or sour cream. The cake will keep, covered and refrigerated, for 3-4 days.

 

 

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Dorothy Bacon

    January 8, 2022 at 8:15 am

    We have acorns aplenty but we need to find an easier way to crack them. I make almond flour pancakes similar to your cake that are pretty light and fluffy, minimal sweetness

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      January 8, 2022 at 8:18 am

      I’m waiting for the Davebuilt nutcracker to get back in stock. Once I have that it won’t be an issue, Sam says it can do 30-40 lbs an hour if I remember correctly. And yeah, you’re almond pancakes are pretty good!

      Reply
  2. David Griggs

    January 8, 2022 at 12:30 pm

    Looks really good…..Just wondering if you could sub out the cinnamon for ground Northern Spice Bush….just one more “local” ingredient ……

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      January 8, 2022 at 1:36 pm

      Kinda. I’d cut the cinnamon in half, not omit it entirely, and add spicebush to the batter to taste in 1/2 teaspoon increments. Sometimes a blend tastes better than purity.

      Reply

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Alan Bergo
I made vegan fish sauce from ramp juice. You tak I made vegan fish sauce from ramp juice. 

You take the pure juice of the leaves, mix it with salt, Koji rice, and more chopped fresh ramp leaves, then ferment it for a bit. 

After the fermentation you put it into a dehydrator and cook it at 145-150 F for 30 days. 

The slow heat causes a Maillard/browning reaction over time. 

After 30 days you strain the liquid and bottle it. It’s the closest thing to plant-based fish sauce I’ve had yet. 

The potency of ramps is a pretty darn good approximation of the glutamates in meat. But you could prob make something similar with combinations of other alliums. 

The taste is crazy. I get toasted ramp, followed by mellow notes from the fermentation. Potent and delicate at the same time. 

I’ve been using it to make simple Japanese-style dipping sauces for tempura etc. 

Pics: 
2: Ramp juice 
3: Juicy leaf pulp 
4: Squeezing excess juice from the pulp
5: After 5 days at 145F 
6: After 30 days 
7: Straining through Muslin to finish

#ramps #veganfishsauce #experimentalfood #kojibuildscommunity #fermentation #foraging
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You bake eggs in a ramekin with shrimp topped with creamy morel sauce and eat with toast points. 

Makes for a really special brunch or breakfast. Recipe’s on my site, but it’s even better to watch Jacques make it on you tube. 

#jacquespepin #morels #shrimp #morilles #brunchtime
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76 for me and 152 for the group. Check your spots, and good luck! 

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I understand it as an indicator that the mushrooms are growing rapidly, and a byproduct of their metabolism speeding up. If you have some clarifications, chime in. 

Most people know it from Hydnellum 
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Morels are coming soon too. Mine were 1 inch tall yesterday in the Twin Cities. 

#guttation #mushroomhunting #cerioporussquamosus #pheasantback #naturesbeauty
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Case in point: preboggion, a mixture of wild plants, that, depending on the reference, should be made with 5-23 individual plants. 

Here’s a few mixtures I’ve made this spring, along with a reference from the Oxford companion to Italian food. 

The mixture should include some bitter greens (typically assorted asters) but the most important plant is probably borage. 

Making your own version is a good excercise. Here they’re wilted with garlic and oil, but there’s a bunch of traditional recipes the mixture is used in. 

Can you believe this got cut from my book?!

#preboggion #preboggiun #foraging #traditionalfoods
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