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Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

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Butternuts / White Walnuts

Butternuts, white walnuts, or Juglans cinereaWhen I saw my first butternut I had the same thought plenty of people have probably had: “that’s a weird looking black walnut”. They’re not black walnuts though. They’re butternuts, and in Minnesota, it’s illegal to harvest them, or even possess them—more on that later. 

Butternuts vs black walnuts

Butternuts, also known as white walnuts (named for the light color of their wood) are cousins to black walnuts, so it’s been helpful me to learn about them by contrasting the two.

Both nuts share the same genus: Juglans cinerea and Juglans nigra, respectively, and, at first glance, they look similar, as both nuts come in a green husk that will stain your fingers. Their shape is different though, as butternuts are much more ovoid than circular, a bit like miniature footballs.

While black walnuts can be a little annoying as they’re prone to stain things, butternuts don’t seem to be as bad in that regard, but they make up for it by being covered in sticky hairs, that, once you notice are hard to forget. 

Green Black Walnuts and Butternuts (1)

Unripe black walnuts (left) and butternuts (right). Butternuts will be very stick, if you zoom in you can see the hairs.

Green Black Walnuts and Butternuts (1)But, the biggest difference has to be in flavor. Butternuts have a smooth, mild buttery taste, and the ones I’ve tasted lack the stronger tannins I can get from skins of English walnuts from a store.

Freshly cracked ones, raw or lightly toasted, make for excellent eating. Black walnuts, on the other hand, have a strong, aromatic flavor I describe similar to menthol, musk, and earth—truly it’s own taste.

I love black walnuts, and could eat them by the handful, but the taste is so powerful many people strongly dislike them (the true sign of a delicacy!).

Butternuts have a mild, creamy taste anyone will love, and if you like regular walnuts, you’ll like them, but first you’ll have to find some. 

Perfectly cracked black walnuts
Black walnuts
Shelled butternuts or white walnuts, Juglans cinerea
Butternuts

Early Drop

Freshly harvested butternuts or white walnuts

Freshly harvested butternuts will bruise like black walnuts. From here all I did was let them dry in a cardboard box in the garage.

The tricky part is that butternuts drop early. Typically about a month earlier than black walnuts, falling around September where I live.

Most of you will be familiar with seeing black walnuts rolling around in the fall, but I’d never seen a single butternut on the ground, only on the tree itself, until Sam Thayer took me along time scout for some on the farm. We harvested butternuts, but not by collecting nuts already fallen like you might black walnuts. 

To get the butternuts, Sam climbed a tree to a height that made me nauseous, shook it with a sort of preternatural skill, and made it rain down an artillery of green mini-footballs.

I couldn’t believe how many gallons we picked up from just two trees! The simple act of shaking a choice tree, at the right moment, and making it rain down food, was a sort of command of nature I’d never imagined.

Just two modestly fruiting trees gave us 3 gunny sacks filled with enough butternuts to burden three grown men. 

A butternut tree or Juglans cinerea
A butternut tree in the front yard. Note the width of the crown, which should generally be wider than black walnuts, and is a great way to tell them apart from a distance.
Dying butternut tree
A close up of the bark on the same tree. It’s not looking too hot, but it’s a strong old buzzard!

Tree Shape

One helpful trick Sam mentioned to me to make ID easier is a general rule I’ve never heard anyone else talk about.

For the most part, with exceptions, butternut trees are generally taller than they are wide, and black walnut trees are wider than they are tall. This can really help pick you pick them out from a distance. 

Labneh with butternuts and pine cone syrup

I like to show off the butternut shape in minimalist preparations. One of my favorites is sprinkled on yogurt cheese with pine cone syrup or mugolio.

The Squirrels nut of choice

Just like black walnuts, butternuts do fall off the tree by themselves, but I’d never noticed a single butternut on the ground, and If you’ve never seen one either, don’t worry, you’re not blind. Jokes about squirrels and nuts abound, but I’m dead serious when I say squirrels seem to prefer butternuts above all other nuts that I’ve seen.

It’s a thing. With black walnuts, I see squirrels bopping around with them here and there, but they seem to pick them more leisurely.

Butternuts, by comparison seem to evaporate off the ground as soon as they fall without a trace—not a single one seems to be left unless I go to a certain tree in town I know of, the exposure to predators and other things probably making it more difficult for the professional nut harvesters. Butternuts exist though, and if you beat the squirrels, they can be yours.

Butternut canker and legality

Another reason you might not see butternuts is because of the disease that affects them. Butternut canker, a sort of fungus that attacks the trees, is bad news, similar to the blight that hit American chestnut trees as far as impact–not a good thing if you’re a butternut tree.

Some trees I’ve picked from seemed to have a good resistance though, and if you look closely you can see the scars on the trunk to prove it.

Unfortunately, the losses in Minnesota are bad enough that the tree has been listed as “of special concern” since 1996, and is now considered endangered, and, in a nutshell, that’s why it’s illegal.

Shelled butternuts or white walnuts

One of the best parts about butternuts is their unique paddle shape.

I couldn’t believe that a food plant so reasonably well known in the wild food community could be illegal myself, so I called the Minnesota DNR and, after a number of calls over the span of a few months, I finally got the answer.

Essentially, listing it as an endangered species invokes the full legal the full legal protocol making it completely illegal to harvest or possess the nuts. Don’t gather the nuts, pick them up, move them, eat them, plant them, or, drive around with some in your car, unless they’re in a secret compartment.

That’s right, even if you wanted to plant the trees, be the Johnny Appleseed of butternuts, you could technically be facing jailtime, a felony and all the trimmings that go with it, including the loss of your voting rights. 

Preparing butternuts for travel by hiding them in your crotch

When traveling with butternuts across state lines into Minnesota, try to hide them in a place the Police won’t look. Here I’m using the old school “He’s got nuts” method.

The law here is obviously overkill, but I can understand the intent. Plant gets blight disease that slowly destroys it? Put it on the endangered list–easy as, pecan pie, right? It seems to me like a knee jerk reaction that had unintended consequences.

At least to me, there’s a difference to someone possessing the edible fruit of a tree that’s harvested in quantity and legal in the surrounding states, to destroying the den of a timber rattlesnake, eating bald eagle egg omelets, or foraging other vascular plants that are endangered or threatened, like ginseng. 

Not even the state can possess the nuts for propagation

It gets better though, and by better I mean bad. The law is fascinatingly byzantine in the case of butternuts, and I’m quoting the DNR here: “not even the State Nursery can possess the nuts for purposes of propagation”.

So, you can’t plant butternuts, I can’t plant butternuts, and neither can the state. So, my question is, how the hell are we supposed to help this tree if no one can touch it? Is there nutting we can do? 

Fresh green butternuts and dried butternuts

Fresh butternuts (left) Dried butternuts (right).

Harvesting and Storing 

When you pick the nuts up off the ground, unlike black walnuts, butternuts won’t be mushy and wormy–the hull will hold their shape.

With black walnuts, I like to roll each nut over with the heel of my shoe to remove the softened green hull as I pick, but with butternuts, I haven’t found that necessary at all.

I just pick up the nuts and put them into a breathable container (a cardboard box has worked fine the last two years) and set them in a place where the squirrels can’t get them, like a garage. After a couple months, the nuts will be dry, then they can be cracked, or, squirreled away for year. 

Winter pavlova with meadowsweet ice cream, chokecherry sauce, wild blueberries, butternuts and angelica
Winter pavlova with butternuts.
Nannyberry pudding with orange creme anglaise, butternuts, apples and persimmons recipe
Nannyberry pate with butternuts.

Cracking 

This is the fun part, and for me, really challenging at first. I was so excited to find butternut trees so close to me, but after curing, my first few attempts at cracking them were embarrassing, to say the least.

Just like other ancestral skills, cracking butternuts and black walnuts is a learned skill, and it takes practice to not smash the nuts to smithereens. I waited to share this until I could dependably get whole nut halves by myself, and I hope the quick video below can help illustrate the process. 

Cracked butternut shells

With any luck, you’ll be able to get butternuts to crack into even halves, giving you near perfect paddle-shaped nuts.

Basically, you have to first whack the nuts so they shed the dried black hull, after that, I hold them vertically preferably on a really firm surface, like a big stone and give them a whack, striking as “true” or as straight as possible, until I hear the audible “crack”, just like black walnut.

Unlike black walnuts, butternuts only have two halves, so once I got the cracking part down, I’ve actually found them a bit easier to crack than black walnuts, which, in a perfect world, I can probably get 4 quarters from.

A tin snips can help spot treat the nut shells to help release the nut meats on difficult nuts, and is, yet again, another great trick passed down from Sam.

Related 

Guide to Black Walnuts 

Further Reading/Listening 

In Defense of Plants Butternut Podcast with Andrea Brennan, graduate research assistant focusing on butternuts and how hybrids could help save the tree from butternut canker. 

“The Elusive White Walnut video” 

Related

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Sam Schaperow

    November 7, 2020 at 6:40 am

    Wow. That’s quite a lot about them. Also, that’s a not I’ve been reading about, but I’ve never found such a tree. I hope to try it someday. Sounds worth it.

    Reply
    • Sam Schaperow

      November 7, 2020 at 6:42 am

      Law not “lot”.
      Nut not “not”.

      Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      November 7, 2020 at 6:49 am

      Yeah I’d been collecting info and practicing my curing, cracking and shelling for a few years here. Better to have one deep dive than a few smaller ones. Hey thanks for looping me in on Mushroom Talk too, that podcast with Alan Rockefeller was really interesting. Makes me want to take up an offer someone sent me to hunt mushrooms in the volcanos by Vera Cruz.

      Reply
      • Finney

        November 7, 2020 at 10:32 am

        Is the name of the podcast “mushroom talk”? I was searching and couldn’t find it. Thanks!

        Reply
        • Alan Bergo

          November 8, 2020 at 4:04 pm

          No, look up “Welcome to mushroom hour”, scroll down a bit and find the episode with Alan Rockefeller.

          Reply
  2. Dj

    November 7, 2020 at 6:45 am

    Love that you found something unique & shared how you got them out.

    Reply
  3. Betsy Lane

    November 7, 2020 at 8:09 am

    Great post! I’d only heard of butternut squash (of course) and now I’m wondering whether the squash tastes like butternuts. And yes—the DNR rules seem a bit nutty to me, too!

    Reply
  4. Nick

    November 7, 2020 at 9:52 am

    Try using a bench vise to crack nuts. Line up the nut crank the handle, and a perfect crack every time. No worries about nuts of different sizes or smacking your hand or fingers.

    Reply
  5. Dave

    November 7, 2020 at 2:52 pm

    Alan- not seeing the video sir,

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      November 8, 2020 at 4:04 pm

      Thanks, somehow that link was wonky, it’s fixed.

      Reply
  6. Peter A

    November 9, 2020 at 1:33 pm

    Great post! I recently toured Quebec for a month searching for pleasing rural landscapes and food. I visited ‘A Garden of Nuts (“Aux Jardins Des Noix”) where they’re growing butternuts, walnuts and more on a commercial scale. http://aujardindesnoix.com. Their butternuts were great–buttery, smooth and mild as you say. But their locally adapted black walnuts? Phenomenal–my taste highlight of the month! They age and dry them extra-long and the resulting nutmeats had hints of parmesan, olive, and tangy butter. Whoah–don’t know if they ship to the US, but it’d be worth asking.

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      November 9, 2020 at 4:18 pm

      Now I just have to translate the page. I’d love to try some.

      Reply
  7. Zanis

    May 2, 2021 at 10:56 am

    Butternuts have hybridized with Japanese walnuts, and the hybrids can be hard to tell apart from true butternuts. You may have been picking ‘buartnuts’ so the legal issues may be moot. IDing guide:
    https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/FNR/FNR-420-W.pdf

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      May 4, 2021 at 11:56 am

      GTK, thanks Zanis.

      Reply
  8. Dwight

    September 6, 2021 at 3:32 pm

    I have a butternut tree in my back yard and your post completely explains how to harvest them, thx. Also I will have to check out the mushrooms talk. I live in Ontario and love going to pick morels. Cheers

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      September 9, 2021 at 1:36 pm

      Thanks Dwight. I just had some wind blow down the butternuts from my favorite tree. 40 lbs in 20 minutes. Can’t wait to get cracking in the winter.

      Reply
  9. Camille

    September 11, 2021 at 7:07 am

    Thank God I don’t have to husk them first! YOu’re video was informative and the blog post gives me the confidence to go ahead and put my gems in a box and forget about them. Love it. Can hardly wait to start whacking.

    Reply
    • Alan Bergo

      September 12, 2021 at 2:59 pm

      Yes, no need to husk them. My friend Sam Thayer does, and says it gives them a better flavor, but I’m to lazy. I do remove the hulls from black walnuts though.

      Reply

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FORAGER | CHEF®
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Alan Bergo
Summer veg PSA: One of the edible plant parts I co Summer veg PSA: One of the edible plant parts I cover in my book you might not know are squash and pumpkin shoots. 

Tender and delicious, these are eaten around the world. The US is still coming around, but I see them occasionally at farmers markets. 

I like to give them a dip in boiling water to wilt them quick, then toss them with some fat or stir-fry them quick. The little curly-cues make them look like fairy tale veggies to me. 

#squashshoots #cucurbitaceae #eatmoreplants #kehoecarboncookware
Shaved cattail rhizomes with smoked trout, chickwe Shaved cattail rhizomes with smoked trout, chickweed, lemon, hickory nut oil and tarragon from the @wild.fed shoot. 

I spent a couple days trying to cook the rhizomes, and it works, but raw is my favorite prep. 

I add some smoked trout both for the salty pop and because it’s fun to mix aquatic edibles. Runner bean flowers for a splash of color. 

#cattails #foraging #chickweed #runnerbeans #saladsofinstagram
Long, fun day snatching crayfish out of the water Long, fun day snatching crayfish out of the water by hand with Sam Thayer and @danielvitalis for @wild.fed 

Daniel and Sam were the apex predators, but I got a few. 

Without a net catching crayfish by hand is definitely a wax-on wax-off sort of skill. Clears your mind. 

They’re going into gumbo with porcini, sausage and milkweed pods today. 

#crayfish #ninjareflexes #waxonwaxoff #normalthings #onset🎥🎬
Working all day on preps for cattail lateral rhizo Working all day on preps for cattail lateral rhizomes and blueberries for this weeks shoot with @wildfed 

Been a few years since I worked with these. Thankfully Sam Thayer dropped a couple off for me to work with. They’re tender, crisp and delicious. 

Sam mentioned their mild flavor and texture could be because they don’t have to worry about predators eating them, since they grow in the muck of cattail marshes. 

I think they could use a pet name. Pond tusk? Swamp spears? Help me out here. 😂

Nature makes the coolest things. 

#itcamefromthepond #cattail #rhizomes #foraging #typhalatifolia
I liked the staff meal I made for Mondays shoot so I liked the staff meal I made for Mondays shoot so much we filmed it instead of the original dish I’d planned. 

Cooked natural wild rice (not the black shiny stuff) is great hot, cold, sweet or savory. It’s a perfect, filling lunch for a long day of berry picking. 

I make them with whatever I have on hand. Mushrooms will fade into the background a little here, so I use a bunch of them, along with lots of herbs and hickory nut oil + dill flowers. 

I’m eating the leftovers today back up in the barrens (hopefully) getting some more bluebs for another shoot this week w @wild.fed 

#wilwilwice #wildrice #chanterelles #campfood #castironcooking
Baby’s first homegrown mushrooms! Backyard wine Baby’s first homegrown mushrooms! Backyard wine caps on hardwood sawdust from my lumberjack buddy.

Next up blewits. Spawn from @northsporemushrooms

#winecaps #strophariaaeruginosa #allthemushroomtags
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