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Award-winning chef, author and forager Alan Bergo. Food is all around you.

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Black Trumpet Bouchées With Chanterelle Mousse

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black trumpet chanterelle mousse bouchees

Here’s the appetizer I started out with at the Hunt ‘N’ Munch: little savory eclairs flecked with black trumpets, filled with a chanterelle cheese mousse, and topped with a pickled chanterelle.

The “bouchée” description is just the pretty name given to savory, filled bites of pate a choux like this. If pate choux isn’t in your culinary repertoire, it should be, not only can it be sweet or savory depending on what you want, it can also be piped and poached, then fried to make a type of gnocchi.

You could vary the combinations and ingredients, like using dried mushrooms in the pate a choux dough instead of fresh black trumpets, or…whatever you want-its really versatile.

black trumpet chanterelle mousse bouchees

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Black Trumpet Bouchées With Chanterelle Mousse

Yield-about 30 cream puffs depending on how big you make them
Prep Time15 mins
Cook Time1 hr 30 mins
Course: Appetizer, Snack
Cuisine: French
Keyword: Bouchee, Chanterelle mushrooms, Mushroom Mousse

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup fresh black trumpet mushrooms chopped
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1 1/4 cup flour
  • 1/2 stick unsalted butter
  • 3 tbsp parmesan cheese grated
  • 1/4 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 recipe Chanterelle-Cheese Mousse follows
  • 1 cup water
  • A few nice buttons of chanterelle conserve you can use this recipe here

Instructions

  • Preheat the oven to 325. In a 2 qt sauce pot, saute the trumpets in the butter for 3-4 minutes until wilted, season with salt, add the water and then puree the mixture in a high speed blender.
  • Pour the black trumpet-water mixture back into the pan, bring to a boil, and add the flour all at once, stirring with a wooded spoon to incorporate.
  • Reduce the heat and continue cooking the mixture for 5 mintues, stirring occasionally  The mixture should form a soft dough and pull away from the sides of the pan.
  • Transfer the dough to the bowl of a stand mixer and mix on low speed with the paddle attachment. Start adding the eggs, one at a time, waiting for each egg to be incorporated into the dough before adding the next.
  • When All the eggs have been added, add the parmesan cheese. Transfer the dough to a piping bag and pipe small balls the circumference of a half dollar onto a cookie sheet lined with parchment.
  • Bake the pate a choux balls for 30 minutes, rotating the cookie sheet occasionally. when the bouchées have doubled in size and are lightly brown, transfer them to a warm place, preferably an warm oven with the heat turned off or on a warming setting. Allow the bouchées to rest in the warm over for another 15 minutes, to make sure that they hold their shape and become hollow on the inside.
  • When the bouchées are hollow and crisp, remove them from the oven and cool. From here they can be frozen, or sliced and filled with a spread or filling and served within a day or two. The bouchées may also be frozen.
  • Finishing and serving
  • Slice each bouchee in half, leaving a portion of the back attached so that the top doesn't fall off.
  • Fill each bouchee with a tbsp of the chanterelle-cheese mixture, garnish each bouchee with a pickled chanterelle and serve.

Notes

Adapted from a pate a choux recipe in the Joy Of Cooking. See my recipe for chanterelle conserve here.
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Chanterelle-Cheese Mousse

Yield: about 5 cups, enough to make appetizers with 1 tbsp each for 30 people
Prep Time5 mins
Cook Time20 mins
Setting time4 hrs
Total Time4 hrs 25 mins
Course: Appetizer, Side Dish
Cuisine: American
Keyword: Chanterelle mushrooms, Cream Cheese
Servings: 15

Ingredients

  • 1/2 lb chanterelles
  • 1/4 lb butter
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • A few small sprigs of thyme
  • 1.5 cups heavy cream + 1/2 cup for finishing the mousse
  • 1/2 cup mascarpone cheese
  • 1 sheet silver gelatin
  • Kosher salt and pepper to taste
  • 3 tbsp grapeseed oil lard, or another high smoke point oil

Instructions

  • Heat the grapeseed oil until smoking in a wide saute pan. Cook the chanterelles for 5 minutes, or until nicely browned and caramlized. Season the mushrooms with salt and pepper, then de-glaze the pan with the white wine and cook until evaporated.
  • Soak the gelatin in a few tbsp of warm water until soft. Add the softened gelatin to the 1.5 cups cream, then heat in a pot and whisk until the gelatin is compelely melted. Next add the gelatin-cream mixture to the pan with the chanterelles and cook for 5 minutes on medium heat, stirring occasionally.
  • Transfer the mushroom-cream mixture to a high speed blender and puree, adding the mascarpone gradually in chunks to maintain a creamy emulsion.
  • Transfer the pureed mixture to the fridge, then let cool.
  • In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip the cream until stiff peaks from.
  • Gently fold the cream into the chanterelle-cheese mixture, double check the seasoning for salt and pepper, and reserve until needed.

 

More 

The Forager’s Guide to Black Trumpet Mushrooms

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  1. Mushroom Hunt 'N' Munch 2014 says:
    August 8, 2014 at 9:29 pm

    […] Black trumpet-chanterelle mousse bouchees (recipe here) […]

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Alan Bergo
I made vegan fish sauce from ramp juice. You tak I made vegan fish sauce from ramp juice. 

You take the pure juice of the leaves, mix it with salt, Koji rice, and more chopped fresh ramp leaves, then ferment it for a bit. 

After the fermentation you put it into a dehydrator and cook it at 145-150 F for 30 days. 

The slow heat causes a Maillard/browning reaction over time. 

After 30 days you strain the liquid and bottle it. It’s the closest thing to plant-based fish sauce I’ve had yet. 

The potency of ramps is a pretty darn good approximation of the glutamates in meat. But you could prob make something similar with combinations of other alliums. 

The taste is crazy. I get toasted ramp, followed by mellow notes from the fermentation. Potent and delicate at the same time. 

I’ve been using it to make simple Japanese-style dipping sauces for tempura etc. 

Pics: 
2: Ramp juice 
3: Juicy leaf pulp 
4: Squeezing excess juice from the pulp
5: After 5 days at 145F 
6: After 30 days 
7: Straining through Muslin to finish

#ramps #veganfishsauce #experimentalfood #kojibuildscommunity #fermentation #foraging
Oeufs de Gaulle is a classic morel recipe Jacques Oeufs de Gaulle is a classic morel recipe Jacques Pepin used to make for French president Charles de Gaulle. 

You bake eggs in a ramekin with shrimp topped with creamy morel sauce and eat with toast points. 

Makes for a really special brunch or breakfast. Recipe’s on my site, but it’s even better to watch Jacques make it on you tube. 

#jacquespepin #morels #shrimp #morilles #brunchtime
Morels: the only wild mushroom I count by the each Morels: the only wild mushroom I count by the each instead of the pound. 

Good day today, although my Twin Cities spots seem a full two weeks behind from the late spring. 2 hours south they were almost all mature. 

76 for me and 152 for the group. Check your spots, and good luck! 

#morels #murkels #mollymoochers #drylandfish #spongemushroom #theprecious
The first time I’ve seen fungal guttation-a natu The first time I’ve seen fungal guttation-a natural secretion of water I typically see with plants. 

I understand it as an indicator that the mushrooms are growing rapidly, and a byproduct of their metabolism speeding up. If you have some clarifications, chime in. 

Most people know it from Hydnellum 
peckii-another polypore. I’ve never seen it on pheasant backs before.

Morels are coming soon too. Mine were 1 inch tall yesterday in the Twin Cities. 

#guttation #mushroomhunting #cerioporussquamosus #pheasantback #naturesbeauty
Rain and heat turned the flood plain forest into a Rain and heat turned the flood plain forest into a grocery store. 

#groceryshopping #sochan #rudbeckialaciniata #foraging
Italian wild food traditions are some of my favori Italian wild food traditions are some of my favorite. 

Case in point: preboggion, a mixture of wild plants, that, depending on the reference, should be made with 5-23 individual plants. 

Here’s a few mixtures I’ve made this spring, along with a reference from the Oxford companion to Italian food. 

The mixture should include some bitter greens (typically assorted asters) but the most important plant is probably borage. 

Making your own version is a good excercise. Here they’re wilted with garlic and oil, but there’s a bunch of traditional recipes the mixture is used in. 

Can you believe this got cut from my book?!

#preboggion #preboggiun #foraging #traditionalfoods
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